Planning on doing oil change #1 this week... I'm at 3,000 miles, and while i know i can go longer ( book & dealer quoted 7500 or whatever ) - i would rather do a first change at 3,000 to be safe.

I'm used to the Dodge Ram, done every oil change on that thing after the first one. Anything I need to know about these fords on the oil changes?

I've heard random rumors about oil filters - I prefer either the K&N or M1 oil filters, but have read Ford is picky?

Anything goofy to expect with draining or removing the filter? I havent even crawled under the truck yet...

 

LOL Have fun taking off the filter.

FL-820S or something like that is the filter model#

 

That doesnt sound like a K&N# or M1# ???????

Care to explain?

 

FL-820S is the OEM Motorcraft/Ford filter. IMO, it's the best way to go. Cheap, solid, and no warranty issues. Only filter I've used on both my F-150's.

Here's a link to a thread from a while back about the first oil change experience.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ange-time.html

Good luck.

Ozzie

 

WIX is my filter of choice. You can change your oil now if you want, but I don't know why you assume you know better than the Ford engineers who wrote the manual. You're just spending money with little in return.

 

...not saying that I nessisarily know "better" - but I know the trash that shows up in the first filter after a run in, or in this case the first 3,000mi. I work in a race car shop, know what filters to avoid (mind you - know nothing about the motorcraft filter, which is why I asked) - and I would also much rather run Synthetic. I also know my driving habits better than the ford engineers, and especially for a first change, would rather be safe than sorry!

WIX are decent filters, We run either the Wix Racing filters or the K&N filters (aka M1 filter, just get a discount good enough worth running the K&N instead of the M1)


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ozman - looks like i'll be using the breaker bar if it was a dry filter application lol...

 

I believe the engines are pre-broken in as far as the metal-shavings issues are concerned. There's no harm in doing it at 3K miles, I was just mentioning that it wasn't necessary. BTW, the motorcraft filter is on par with the WIX imo.

 

I'm not sure about the place you bought yours, but the dealership I bought mine from offered a free first oil change. I did mine at 4k. Might be worth asking, it'll save you $30 or so.

 

When I get a new truck, I run it easy the first 500 to 800 miles and then I hammer it hard the next 500 miles and then drop the oil at around 1500 miles. Probably don't need to any more, but that is the way I have always done them.

 

These engines don't need the break in they did in the past. There is nothing wrong with changing the oil at 3000 miles. I changed mine at 2500 and the oil looked new. Also, if you notice the OCI is not just 7500 miles, but 6 month's or 7500 which ever comes first. Make sure you stay with 5w20 and a good filter. Ford has been known to void warranties if a certain filter is used. (RE: Fram)
No need to spend $13 for a K&N when the MC FL820S is just as good. By the way, Wix makes Motorcraft filters.
As it turns out Motocraft oil a quality oil. The 5w20 synthetic blend is one of the best blends on the market, and no one else can compete with the price.
You can stay with Motorcraft oils and filters and put 200,000 miles on the truck. The money you save over the high priced boutique oils could add up to a nice set of tires and rims some day.

 

Please update us after you get it changed. I'm interested to see if they are still putting on the filters with a diesel-powered torque wrench

As I said before, I agree with everyone else here. The OEM Motorcraft FL-820S is a great filter (and I do remember reading somewhere a long time ago that they are made by Wix). No need to spend any extra coin on a high priced one. Also, I agree with the use of the Motorcraft 5w-20 Semi-Synthetic. It's well priced and seems to wear well (based on appearance only upon draining, I've never done an oil analysis). I like it so much that I decided to use it in my 2010 Mazda with the 2.5 (since the engine is made by Ford anyway), and I used a Motorcraft filter. Not saying all the other oils aren't good too, but for my applications the Motorcraft stuff works well. I'll admit, I did put Royal Purple in my Camaro with a RP filter, but that car is driven differently than my truck and Mazda

Ozzie

 

Post-Oil Change Report

It took me about twice as long to change the oil with the F150 than what it did with the Dodge 1500. The only reason it took so long? The oil filter!

...and NO. I'll say it right now HAHA! It wasn't tightened down by two blind monkeys using a jackhammer It was actually tightened what seemed to be pretty proper. It didnt take much effort to take off using a nice filter wrench.

It only took so long because of that dam. The air dam. I don't use jacks, a lift, or anything to change truck oil. never have. Unfortunately the air damn hangs down just enough to make it a beotch to come up from the bottom side and put the new filter on! I didnt have a direct line of sight to line it up, so it was kinda like the first "first time" - you know, stick it in, swish it around and match up the parts until something goes inside where its supposed to go. Once I could get the right angle, and get it to line up right - I got it to go on. After that, the rest came quick and easy!

I went with a full synthetic Mobil1 that exceeds Ford Spec - and the M1 filter.

Funny story for the people on here that are picky about filters:

I compared the M1 & K&N Filters (which have long been known to be the same filter - just with or without the nut) to the Motorcraft in the store. They were blatantly obviously from different manufacturers. However, the filter on the truck WAS the same filter as the M1/K&N. The only thing that looked even remotely different was the bypass. The can was the same, the baseplate was nearly the same ( one or two less holes on the baseplate on the Motorcraft). The baseplate on the K&N, M1 at Autozone & Motorcraft that came from the factory on the truck were also all stamped ZZ, along with one other filter we had at the shop. I suspect ZZ is a code on all Champion Labs filters?

The Motorcraft Filter at Autozone was a completely different construction. The can was almost like it was "serrated" at the top of the can. The oil holes on the baseplate were goofy shaped/oblonged.

 

Mine wasn't bad at 3,000. It didn't look "new" but it did look young.

7500 miles is like 2-3 months max for me. I just got my truck a couple days over a month ago. I don't think I'll have to worry about passing the 6-month mark anytime soon...

Re: Fram - There is a reason they paint those cans bright orange. Need I say more?

With my driving, I would rather stick with the full synthetic instead of dino, or a dino-blend. I'm not saying I beat my truck by any means - but im far from your average daily driver too.