Apparently Ford doesn't care about their customers keeping their cool.
My 2010 had the worst A/C I have ever seen, and now that it has finally gotten above 80 degrees, I realize that my 2013 is just as lame. They made zero improvements.
On normal A/C it will not blow 40 degree air out of the vents on an 85 degree day. That is ridiculous. For what I guess is mpg reasons, they are cycling the compressor on and off 5 times every minute. Which is exactly what my 2010 did. You can't stay cool when the a/c is only working part of the time.

I found a TSB on here for 2010 that changed the computer program for the A/C and stopped the compressor on and off cycle. I had that done to my 2010 and it helped some. Does anyone know if that still exists for the 2013?

Thanks for you help.

 

When you run it on normal AC it still draws outside air, so maybe that is why you can't make ice cubes. When it is on "Max" AC it will recirculate more inside air, so it cools better.

At least that is how it used to be. Of course with the EPA, AQMD, GBLT, PTA, and everyone else involved that may have changed.

 

on my truck when its around 90 degrees is when i notice the ac not really performing all that well with normal ac on.. As soon as i switch to max ac then it cools it down really quick.. It has hit 103 so far this year and no complaints as long as its on max ac. Im going to put a thermometer in the ac vent today to see what temp its actually blowing out on normal and max ac.

 

The AC in my 2006 sucked and had a computer programming issue they could never figure out, but I have been very pleased with my 2011. No issues at all.

 

my 2012 blows nice cold air on either setting.

I'd take it back to the dealer and have them check the AC charge... maybe yours doesn't have enough coolant?

 

I always leave mine on Max Ac why just use regular ac when Max ac works much better! And come on down to Texas if you want to experience REAL heat and Humidity! Now my 2005 Had a sucky AC but my 2011 and 13' work great!

 

Just did a little test..

On normal ac at 86 degrees outside driving 70mph the air temp was 42 degrees, after about 15 mins of driving I switched it to max ac.. It dropped down to 38 degrees constant..

In town driving the outside temp climbed to 95 degrees outside and on normal ac it was 48 degrees. On max ac it dropped to 43 degrees

Coming back home running 70mph at 96 degrees outside normal ac was 44degrees, max ac was 40 degrees.

 

...........

 

Being west texas, typically if it's hot outside I'll roll all windows down to flush the hot air out. The inside truck air can easily hit 140+ in west texas heat, getting this air out quickly improves cool down time. I guess I'll see fairly quickly how my new f150 does in comparison to my current Tundra cooling wise. Dealer should be calling any day now saying it's delivered.

 

The a/c in my '06 sucks compared the a/c in my '99.

 

While I know nothing about automotive A/C, in a past career I was an HVAC estimator for building construction.

Heating and A/C units in my world were designed with a certain temperature parameter in mind. Speaking of A/C, after calculating the heat load (glass, building construction, the number of people in a room, etc.), the A/C would be designed with a certain temperature differential in mind. That meaning the actual difference in temperature from the outside ambient to the actual indoor temp.

Let's say the system is designed for a 25deg temp difference. That would mean to maintain 70deg inside the building, the outside temp can't go over 95deg. This would be acceptable for an area in the mid-south.

So apply this to our trucks A/C. I don't know what temperature differential is designed into our systems, but it is designed for a certain temperature drop for outside temp to inside temp. Let's say it is 80deg outside, they want the cabin temp to be able to maintain 65deg inside. So, the hotter it is outside, the less cooling will be availbale inside. The vehicle manufacturers have to find an average somewhere - they can't design 10 different A/C systems for 10 different parts of the country.

So while the A/C in my truck works great here in northern Pennsylvania, you guys in Texas are going to suffer somewhat.

What has been said here a few times of using the Max setting is prudent. The A/C system can only provide a certain amount of temperature drop. If it is 100deg outside, vs 85deg in the cabin, using the Max setting which is pulling air from inside the cabin vs the hotter outside air is going to help a lot.

 

I'm having no issues with my A/C cooling in my '13 and i'm in south louisiana........and just for kicks throw on the A/C seat and just ......AHHHHHH

 

I understand the parameter thing, but when its 85 outside and I have to run max a/c to keep cool, what am I going to do at 105 degrees. Thats the problem.
I want the max a/c to be there when I need to cool the truck down and on the hottest summer days. I like pulling in the outside air, so that is why I run it on Normal. At the price of these trucks they should be able to cool you down on normal with no problem. My 2005 Chevy I had would be so cold that on a 109 degree day in western KS, I had to turn it down, because I got cold in the cab. That is a/c. This truck and my 2010 wouldn't do that on its best day on MAX Air. The systems are to small for these trucks. You shouldn't have to run it maxed out all the time to keep cool. If I have more people in the truck than just me, its worse.
I was sitting at a stop light yesterday, and it could just barely blow 50 degree air at 85 ambient. I know that idling makes it more difficult, but that is ridiculous.

My sons 90 crown vic will blow 38 degree air at 105 ambient all day, and its 23 years old.

I know the system is cycling the a/c compressor on and off, just like my 2010 did, I just wondered if anyone knew of a TSB that might address this issue.

 

You may be having issues with the blend door. I have that issue with mine and rather than rip the dash apart, I put a quarter turn valve on the heater hose. Problem solved. Here's what it looks like on my 2004 SCrew.


I turn the coolant off during the summer and on during the winter. It has dropped the air temp down into the high 30's from a max of 50F when new. The dealer obviously found nothing wrong. Parts list is a 1/2" quarter turn valve, 2 short nipples, a 3" piece of heater hose, 4 clamps. To return to stock configuration all you have to do is remove the valve with the accessories and reinstall.

 

I totally agree with your comments. I got a little pissed with the service reps on return visit after previous comments were signed of as air conditioning achieved the required temps.!!!! At the time previous check/test the outside temps were only in the 60s and probably less inside the garage. I asked them to actually check the refrigerant pressure, guess what, one was low and apparently they also found a leak???? I'm currently awaiting the installation of the leaking fitting, so I hope this will improve the performance of my air conditioner.
If you have not done so already, you may want ask them to perform an actual test of the refrigerant.