2009 - 2014 F-150

Power Tailgate Lock?

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  #91  
Old 03-19-2012 | 03:05 PM
Formula jg's Avatar
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Augster,
Thanks for taking the time to do that detailed write up with pics. It clears up some questions I had. Ordered my actuator last week so this helps.

Is 18-20 gauge wire OK to use here?
 
  #92  
Old 03-19-2012 | 03:19 PM
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I probably wouldn't go any smaller than 18 gauge as that's the size wire on the actuator itself; at least, that's the size on the one I bought. It actually depends on the amps/watts drawn by the solenoid while energized but no such specs were provided on mine. Using too small a wire for the amperage draw may lead to overheating and the very rare event of melting the insulation. I say "rare" as it's only a momentary power draw. But if somehow the circuit would malfunction and permanently charge the solenoid, things could get nasty if the wires are too small.

FYI, the factory wires I tapped in to were 18 gauge as well.
 

Last edited by Augster; 03-19-2012 at 03:27 PM.
  #93  
Old 03-19-2012 | 04:38 PM
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I bought a 20ft roll some time ago and need to check the gauge size, thanks.
 
  #94  
Old 03-25-2012 | 07:34 PM
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Done and absolutely love this mod, highly recommend it if anyone is on the fence about doing it.
 
  #95  
Old 09-14-2012 | 10:32 AM
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My vehicle is a 2012 F-150 FX2 with every electronic device you can imagine. (power everything, sunroof, nav, heated/cooled seats, back up camera, etc.) I had a little trouble locating the correct blue/green wire!!



Note: I tapped the wires under the driver side door sill where there are A LOT of wires.

See image:



There were 3 blue wires w/ green stripes.

2 of them were darker blue with green stripe.

My suggestion is to find the light grey with brown stripe first.

Then look for a medium blue wire w/green stripe that is the same thickness/ gauge.

The other 2 darker blue/green were slightly thinner. One of them seemed to interfere with the operating of the powerfold mirrors when it was connected to the powergate. And the other one seemed to trigger the doors to lock on first connection of the power gate wire. So those could also be give aways.

The directions were HORRIBLE for the Pace Edwards Powergate LK370.
One page of all text with one sketch that barely shows anything.
They need to create a supplemental guide that can be viewed online and/or printed at home via color .pdf file.
B/c the product and wiring, etc. is a decent product for a decent price. They just need to work on the directions!

In case you're wondering why get one? Well, tailgate theft is on the rise. People are stealing them & selling them via craigslist, ebay, etc. for a few hundred to almost $1,000. I see tons of people with damaged tailgates from hitting trailers with tailgate down, etc.. And to get a replacement with back up camera, tailgate step & post, painted the correct color, etc... it can cost a lot of money. So this automatically locks my tailgate everytime I lock my doors!

Also since I have a bed cover it protects my load. Though, I'm not too worried about that since I have a soft toneau top that could be cut through easily.
 

Last edited by FX2-Chris6; 09-14-2012 at 10:49 AM.
  #96  
Old 12-08-2012 | 04:15 AM
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So do these kits work with tailgates with the rear backup camera?
 
  #97  
Old 12-09-2012 | 02:32 AM
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From: Florida
Anyone confirm?
 
  #98  
Old 12-09-2012 | 05:15 PM
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Yes, no conflict with backup camera on my mod.

*To clarify, I did not use any pre-packaged tailgate kit but instead just ordered an inexpensive ebay actuator and fabricated a bracket like other members have done. I do have the b/u camera and no issuse with install or operation.
 

Last edited by Formula jg; 12-10-2012 at 08:01 AM.
  #99  
Old 12-09-2012 | 05:35 PM
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From: The Bluegrass State
Originally Posted by FX2-Chris6
My vehicle is a 2012 F-150 FX2 with every electronic device you can imagine. (power everything, sunroof, nav, heated/cooled seats, back up camera, etc.) I had a little trouble locating the correct blue/green wire!!



Note: I tapped the wires under the driver side door sill where there are A LOT of wires.

See image:



There were 3 blue wires w/ green stripes.

2 of them were darker blue with green stripe.

My suggestion is to find the light grey with brown stripe first.

Then look for a medium blue wire w/green stripe that is the same thickness/ gauge.

The other 2 darker blue/green were slightly thinner. One of them seemed to interfere with the operating of the powerfold mirrors when it was connected to the powergate. And the other one seemed to trigger the doors to lock on first connection of the power gate wire. So those could also be give aways.

The directions were HORRIBLE for the Pace Edwards Powergate LK370.
One page of all text with one sketch that barely shows anything.
They need to create a supplemental guide that can be viewed online and/or printed at home via color .pdf file.
B/c the product and wiring, etc. is a decent product for a decent price. They just need to work on the directions!

In case you're wondering why get one? Well, tailgate theft is on the rise. People are stealing them & selling them via craigslist, ebay, etc. for a few hundred to almost $1,000. I see tons of people with damaged tailgates from hitting trailers with tailgate down, etc.. And to get a replacement with back up camera, tailgate step & post, painted the correct color, etc... it can cost a lot of money. So this automatically locks my tailgate everytime I lock my doors!

Also since I have a bed cover it protects my load. Though, I'm not too worried about that since I have a soft toneau top that could be cut through easily.

Great post!!! Thanks!!!
 
  #100  
Old 12-09-2012 | 05:50 PM
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From: The Bluegrass State
Originally Posted by scorpio333
Great write up Augster.

Cannot agree more! Excellent write-up!
 
  #101  
Old 12-16-2012 | 03:25 AM
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From: Jax, FL
Originally Posted by sharper4
Search for "12V Universal 2 Wire Power Car Door Lock Actuator 7Ca" on eBay. It's about $4. I can't believe you guys are paying $120 for the Dynolock. From what I can see of the pics they have for other vehicles (pic not available for '09+ F150) it looks like its almost the exact same thing I bought but it has a metal plate attached. What's the big difference?

You wire the actuator to your door locks (located in the driver's door sill) and your tailgate will lock / unlock with your key fob. Install wasn't hard but did take some time since I hadn't done it before. It's worked every time for me since I installed it and I keep testing it just for the sake of doing so.

And for the record, I can still use my key with my newly installed actuator. There is a slight pressure when turning the key but nothing so major I'd ever worry my key would break off or anything, just enough pressure to remind me the latching mechanism is pushing / pulling the actuator arm. But at least if the arm broke or my wiring died I can still use the key.

Here are some incomplete, in-progress pics I had taken:


Yeah man I don't get it either what you're using is a power door lock actuator we put on every car alarm i ever installed back in the day when most cars didn't have power locks and boom instant keyless entry before there was such a thing... back then they were 20 bucks an actuator but still? I've got 4 in the garage... been debating pulling one out and making this myself... cost 12 bucks with the wire? and my key *OR* keyfob will both unlock the tailgate...
 

Last edited by User Error; 12-16-2012 at 04:58 AM.
  #102  
Old 12-16-2012 | 03:29 AM
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From: Jax, FL
I do have one question, Anyone know which wires it is in the passenger side door sill? I want it to take two hits on the remote plus all my other wires enter the truck in the front passenger sill at the grommet right there at the right place...
 
  #103  
Old 12-16-2012 | 03:58 AM
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From: Florida
Did you see post #94?
 
  #104  
Old 12-16-2012 | 04:56 AM
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From: Jax, FL
Originally Posted by Formula jg
Done and absolutely love this mod, highly recommend it if anyone is on the fence about doing it.
Here's post number 94? I don't get what you're tryin to say...
 
  #105  
Old 12-16-2012 | 05:58 PM
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Originally Posted by User Error
Yeah man I don't get it either what you're using is a power door lock actuator we put on every car alarm i ever installed back in the day when most cars didn't have power locks and boom instant keyless entry before there was such a thing... back then they were 20 bucks an actuator but still? I've got 4 in the garage... been debating pulling one out and making this myself... cost 12 bucks with the wire? and my key *OR* keyfob will both unlock the tailgate...
I've done three of these now with this actuator and all three retained full access of using the actual key.
 


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