(updated)

 

Are you tethering the box to stop it from sliding when braking?

 

Prob use the current rear sub bolt hole and fit another on the other side of the truck. Then rig up some all braces to go from top of the box. Should be pretty quick job.

 

It's looking damn good!

 

I hope so lol. I put over 30 hours into that box so far. Cant beat building a custom box exactly how you want it. But the best thing is i can take it out in under 20 secs and put the original sub back in and be back to stock or remove both and have the whole rear empty.

 

any chance of you making one for someone and shipping it if they obviously paid you for it? haha

 

No way lol. Unless we are talking $1000 a box

 

damn that box looks good! are you and ex custom enclosure builder/installer? What do you think about using steel as the enclosure. I'm thinking about building a box out of 12ga (.109") P&O and powder coating it to match. that way i can have more volume inside and maybe can get a larger sub instead of using 5/8" MDF. Also the rigidity of steel is uncomparible to wood. ANd really, indestructable. Heavy too, so if someone want's to jack it they'll have a hell of a time picking it up

 

Im in construction so i have all the tools i need to knock this stuff out. It def helps to have the correct tools for the job. Ok about the box made of steel. From what i have heard it's a bad idea. If it's to thin it will sound funny and if it's to thick it will be stupidly heavy. You are def better of going with MDF or Ply. they are a lot better designed to cope with properties of audio than steel is. Plus it really needs to be removable if you want to carry on making use of that space.

 

good advice. thanks. i'll have to research more into it. maybe 7ga. would be thick enough but like you said....stupid HEAVY!

 

just found a forum where a guy built a steel enclosure out of 3/16 plate and put beads of weld on the outside about 2" apart to damper the ring tone. Said it worked really well. hmmmm...might have to look into that.

 

My home speakers are cnc machined from alloy but they are very heavy and very thick. It can work but the idea with the weld beads will def help. Maybe an internal t bar frame to stop the panels from vibrating. But again you are looking at a great deal of weight. I will weight mine when it's done but it can easy pick it up with one arm at the moment with the am in it. The speaker dont weight a great deal so it's def going to be removable with one person.

 

Big_ole_TRUCK i done the first bracket and it seems to be holding it pretty well. I also added the access panel door for the fuse holder.

 

Looks amazing. However, since you attached it with screws, you need tools to remove it. Can you use something that 'clips' in? Then it would be a true quick-disconnect.

 

Thought about that ages ago. I purchased a little tool from lowes called a Thumb ratchet about $14. It comes in a tiny little box that fit under the seat storage area and has loads of handy socket bits and screw driver bits. you can see it at the top left of this pic. You only have to use that tool to untighten the screws then you can unscrew them by hand.