So as many of you know, after installing bilstein 5100's at full height, the front can set just a bit high. Mine sat 1/8 to 1/4 inch high on the front end. Not acceptable in my opinion. I wanted the most out of the front as I could get, for later on I plan to add larger tires.

My factory blocks between the diff and springs were 1 1/4 inches thick on my '10 FX4 Screw, and I felt 2" would be a better height, to allow for some very minor weight in the box, and still look level. Yes, all said and done I have 1/2 inch of rake, but to the naked eye, it is hard to see. And better than having it nose high.

I started with some solid stock steel, and while at work, proceeded to grind it down to the size I was looking for. I found some 3/4 inch solid core steel dowel, and after drilling into the solid steel, set the dowel in place, flipped the blocks over, and welded them in there permanently. Next, I drilled the back side holes to the proper size (I did mine 15/16) So they would fit the differential alignment pins. Overall dimensions of finished blocks, 2" tall x 2 3/4" wide x 5" long, with the 3/4 dowells sticking out 1/4 inch.

Clean em, prime em, and painted em. Pics of the process.... and best of all, I got the size I wanted, and they never cost me a dime.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

 

you should make these and sell them. I know I would purchase a set. Looks good, do you have any pics of the truck after install.

 

I've been trying to upload the before pic off my camera, but for some reason, this site just doesn't want to let me, but here is the after. Now bear in mind, I have winter rubber (blizzak 285/70/17) mounted on 2010 XLT 17"rims for the snow months. But overall tire height is almost exact as the factory 275/65/18, on my FX4 18's.

After....

[IMG][/IMG]

 

And a couple more after shots.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

 

you're welcome for all those measurements

looks great! glad you're happy with the results

 

Sweet! looks killer with the 2" block! To me the 3" block/Level Kit looks great, but still has too much forward rake for my taste.

 

I have to give a considerable bit of credit to Marshall. He provided me with alot of info on the measurements of the factory blocks, and ride heights after he installed his 3" blocks ,which he bought I might add It led me to deciding what I wanted for mine. Thanks buddy.

 

i was more than happy to help!

 

You forgot center to center distance on pibns.

Looks OK but sure appears to be a waste of steel just to add more weight.

The same thing could have been done with two pieces of 2" x 2" x 5" long 1/4" wall tubing, slap a piece of 3/8" thick plate on each side to get to the 2-3/4" width, drill the 3/4" holes for stubs all way through, then enlarge on one side to 13/16" to fit truck's pins, then weld the two stubs in the 3/4" holes, then lastly simply box the two open ends with 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/4" plates.

But yeah ..... look nice.

 

the downside to that though is cracking, its a common occurrence with welded blocks. they're not up to the real world truck application.

 

I guess if your welding 1/4" steel with a 1/16" drag rod and low heat, that might happen.

Use 1/8 7014 and about 120-140 amps, it ain't gonna crack. The end plates that are welded in last are recessed back into the tubing.

Those saddles welded to the axle tubes aren't solid are they?

 

no, they're cast steel, as are the factory blocks

 

I didn't forget, I omitted some of the variables. Check out Marshal's "the build" for the pics of his blocks. I used them for reference and measurements of my "stubs" and holes.

I considered your method, but figured that each and every weld is a weak spot, just waiting to fail. Nothing is more fool proof than a solid chunk of steel, even though mine have holes and dowels dropped in. (they are welded in there from the bottom though) I thought about the weight factor, and considered drilling a series 3/4 of holes on the bottom side, 3/4 of the way through. Kind of a bee hive effect from the bottom, but solid on top.

After 60 seconds of thought, I figured it was a waste of time and energy, to save 10 lbs. I'm not building a indy car here, I built em ford tough.

So lets just agree to disagree, I like em. That's what matter most to me.

 

HOw much would you build them for?

 

I said they look nice, and no doubt they'll outlast the truck and they'll certainly do what you want them to do and your work place appearantly has provided you with the tools to make them.

There's nothing to disagree about.

But any weld that "is a weak spot, just waiting to fail" is a poor weld.

The fault isn't in the design or materials then, the faut is in the execution. I can put steel together with Gorilla glue or I can weld it properly. If I use the glue, it'll all fall apart if dropped.

A proper weld is stronger than the metal it joins. The steel should yield before the weld. I don't make a weld with the idea that it's a weak spot waiting to fail. If I think my last bead is going to just even maybe fail, I fix it then until I know it won't fail.

Hey, it''s good that you can pull out a slab of steel and whittle out two solid blocks of steel 2" x 2-3/4" x 5" long.