My plugs going to start popping out of heads one day? 2004 4.6L Triton 62K miles
My plugs going to start popping out of heads one day? 2004 4.6L Triton 62K miles
I see conflicting opinions online about which year/engine size/2 or 3 valve, will pop plugs one day, or break off upon removal. 2004 F-150 4.6L Triton, 64K miles. Purchased 4-mos. ago. Really wanted an F-250 4-DR, but couldn't resist the condition & price. Not a scratch on it inside (bed included) or out, and undercarriage is clean.
Any particular undercoating brand I should look for?
I know it would look so much better with new rims. What would you recommend for minimal cost? I'm an older fart, not looking for the sharpest and most expensive. It's never been a work truck, and still won't be. It seems the closest it got to any kind of work, was carrying flowers boxes for the yard.
Last edited by plumducky; Oct 1, 2019 at 11:34 AM.
You should have the 2 valve 4.6 that is susceptible to plugs blowing out if they aren't tightened enough. The Ford manual states 12 ft lbs torque on the plugs while the latest recommendation it 28 ft lbs. If you want to make sure they won't blow out, torque them to 28. While you are at it, you may as well replace them with new plugs.
The 2004 F150 4.6 engine is a 2 valve engine. There is no problem with the plugs. They are conventional plugs with coils on top. The heads changed in year model 2004 which eliminated the issue with the short threads and plugs being blown out of the heads. The only issue in changing plugs in that truck is the passenger side rear plug can be a headache to swap out due to it's buried under the dash. No anti-seize required on the plugs but you will use a di-electric grease on the shanks of the plugs to seal out water.
Your wheels were never popular or well liked. You might find some later year Ford wheels more attractive. I'm a fan of the 20" 2014 F150 wheels that came on the sport package but that's me. You might like something entirely different. Be careful if looking at used wheels. You want to see them turn before buying as a lot of the wheels for sale are crooked and won't run straight. You can't balance and make a crooked wheel run right. You can also buy crooked new wheels so make sure you get to see the wheels run while they balance them. Went thru this a couple of years ago with new wheels on a truck. We went thru 19 new wheels before finding 4 that were straight. The crooked ones, they put back in the box and back on the shelf. Somebody bought them.
Your wheels were never popular or well liked. You might find some later year Ford wheels more attractive. I'm a fan of the 20" 2014 F150 wheels that came on the sport package but that's me. You might like something entirely different. Be careful if looking at used wheels. You want to see them turn before buying as a lot of the wheels for sale are crooked and won't run straight. You can't balance and make a crooked wheel run right. You can also buy crooked new wheels so make sure you get to see the wheels run while they balance them. Went thru this a couple of years ago with new wheels on a truck. We went thru 19 new wheels before finding 4 that were straight. The crooked ones, they put back in the box and back on the shelf. Somebody bought them.
You plugs are fine, they aren't going to "blow out", that problem was corrected with the 04+ Tritons. The 4.6L also didn't have the 2-pc plugs like the 5.4L did, so no real issues with snapping plugs off in the head, either. Wheels are personal preference, but your existing wheels look fine on that color. I'm with Labnerd that a potentially cheaper option would be to browse FaceBook Marketplace or Craigslist for some Ford wheels from one of the newer models. Lots of guys upgrade to custom wheels/tires and sell off their factory wheels for cheap.
I have heard of 2004's with short threads, you can't assume yours have the newer heads. Even with the new heads, I've heard of blowouts due to insufficient torque. With 62k, change them, use Motorcraft plugs, and torque them to 28 ft/lb.
The dielectric grease goes inside the coil boots, avoid getting any on the contact springs.
The dielectric grease goes inside the coil boots, avoid getting any on the contact springs.
I wouldn't use any traditional rubberized undercoating. There are a number of oil based or wax based coatings out there that are IMO much better, but need to be reapplied.
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Thx for your reply. Why are they better? Are the oil or wax coatings applied by companies similar to those who advertise Ziebart undercoatings (or other brands), or are you talking about DIY products. I was planning on taking it to a shop that advertises Ziebart undercoatings, only because that's what my brother always did before bringing his new vehicles home.
Last edited by plumducky; Oct 1, 2019 at 11:36 AM.
Same. Was actually looking for one at HF but the Kobalt was cheaper at Lowes.
What's "HF"? SoonerTruck's response ("Same. Was actually looking for one at HF but the Kobalt was cheaper at Lowes.")
Last edited by plumducky; Oct 1, 2019 at 04:42 PM.
Harbor Freight.
A 3/8 may be a lot easier to use in tight spaces.
https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...nch-63880.html
Dirt cheap, but lifetime warranty. Should be fine for occasional use. Good to 80 ft/lb, if you need more, then you need a 1/2.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...nch-63882.html
For what they cost, get both! If you need a little tiny one, they also have a cheap 1/4 for inch-pounds.
https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-...nch-63881.html
A 3/8 may be a lot easier to use in tight spaces.
https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...nch-63880.html
Dirt cheap, but lifetime warranty. Should be fine for occasional use. Good to 80 ft/lb, if you need more, then you need a 1/2.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...nch-63882.html
For what they cost, get both! If you need a little tiny one, they also have a cheap 1/4 for inch-pounds.
https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-...nch-63881.html





