2004 - 2008 F-150

Preventing the cam phaser issue?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-07-2019, 10:30 PM
VAmountainman's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Preventing the cam phaser issue?

'06 F-150 5.4 4X4, 99K miles. Engine is totally quiet, even at startup. Not even any injector noise. I am certain the inside of this engine is clean as a pin. Looks like it has been run on full synthetic oil its entire life. I'm running M1 EP. Have done a lot of reading about the whole cam phaser, tensioner, etc. issue, and it looks like the phasers start to go when one or both timing chain tensioners blows an oil seal and reduces pressure of the oil going to the top end. Looks like the reason why at least some of the times when that whole nine yards is replaced and the noise persists is due to lack of oil pressure to the camshaft bearing surface and the scoring of the journal surfaces in the heads that follows. If I go ahead and have the tensioners and guides replaced with Motorcraft parts before I start hearing noise, would I stand a good chance of being assured of no related noise for another 100K or so? I would have the pan dropped and inspected, and a new Melling high volume oil pump and pickup tube installed at that time. Thanks in advance.
 
  #2  
Old 07-08-2019, 09:59 AM
SoonerTruck's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 2,230
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
I'd just run it as-is. Don't try to fix something that isn't broken. I mean, sure, if you're going to install new guides/tensioners, make sure sure to do the high-volume oil pump while you're at it. However, if it were me, I'd just run it the way you've been running it with M1 5w-20 oil (don't know that EP means much) and keep up on oil changes ever 5-7K miles with a quality oil filter (I prefer WIX filters myself).
 
  #3  
Old 07-08-2019, 09:20 PM
ManualF150's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor

Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Vernon, NY
Posts: 10,625
Received 259 Likes on 250 Posts
Full overhaul, cam lockouts, and a Melling High flow oil pump.

Unfortunately, to do it right, it's not cheap.
 
  #4  
Old 07-08-2019, 11:15 PM
TDRPro210's Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 9
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Stick with FoMoCo / Ford Racing parts

That's my opinion after reading forum after forum for the 6+ years I've owned my 255,000k mile 5.4 triton. Last year I got the Ford racing HV oil pump, complete timing job including the VVT solenoids, thermostat and water pump and damn, finally my truck doesn't sound like a diesel. That along with new cats and muffler had gotten my truck 18.1mpg. I was going 65mph on cruise control with very little breaking traveling up hill as I drove from San Antonio to Vegas in December. That was using 91-93octane with 10% ethanol. That's up from the 12.3mpg I had been getting all along. My truck drives/responds like the Mustang I knew it should now. I'm soooooo happy with the overhauls results.
Fast forward to this past week. I drove from SATX to Destin Florida going 75-85 with no CC and got 17.3. I should say that my brakes were feeling slightly clamped / engaged for the past three years until last week when I put new 4wheel disk brake sets on it. Again, all FoMoCo calipers, disks/drums and pads. I also got two new 4x4 hub actuators that had been trying to engage at higher speeds for 6+ years, a new 4x4 solenoid with water cover, new complete vacuum tubes and check valves. No more weird grinding / Rattling at higher rpms from beneath as I sped up quickly. Finally, for this current trip I used non ethanol 87octane for my first time ever. I'm actually more happy about having a quiet beast than good gas milage. Looking forward to a new 5000cfm eFan, AES CAI and 5star tune along with some 1.5" spacers for my first real upgrade. Hope this helps. I got my timing kit from freedom racing for like $825. The gasket kit I got from them are the only non FoMoCo parts I've put into the engine. I think I got the Ford racing HV pump for around $125 on amazon. I'll get a new A-frame Guage cluster at a later time but for now I like seeing that my oil pressure Guage is pointed at the 1:45 now instead of the noon position. I got the phasers from eBay, individually for $130 and $144

Local shop did job for $800

Id have done it myself but two of the tools I needed cost about $500 themselves so um yeah, I dont want to become a full time mechanic so I paid the $300 more and went to bed comfortably knowing that it'll be done right, with a one year warranty.

Oh, I'm using the synthetic blend motorcraft oil and I have new Motorcraft COPs, plugs, oil and fuel filters. A senior Ford Service manager told me the other day that it drove remarkably well. I pat myself on my back and extended the appreciation to my two mechanics


I have a question for anybody reading this: when I have filled up for the past 6 years the Guage has responded swiftly and quickly upon turning on engine. I filled up with the ethanol free before hiting the road for 13 hrs and freaked out afterwards because the Guage didn't budge. U restarted the truck with no results. I figured it was broken and cursed it because I was looking forward to documenting the gas mileage. About 20 minutes later it had finally reflected a full tank.
Hmmmm? Why I thought. I couldn't find ethanol free elsewhere so I used 92 and what do you know, the Guage quickly adjusted to show a full tank again, like it always has.
My question is why is there a difference in the guages ability to respond?
 

Last edited by TDRPro210; 07-08-2019 at 11:38 PM. Reason: Milage is important
The following users liked this post:
  #5  
Old 07-09-2019, 12:17 AM
VAmountainman's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by SoonerTruck
I'd just run it as-is. Don't try to fix something that isn't broken. I mean, sure, if you're going to install new guides/tensioners, make sure sure to do the high-volume oil pump while you're at it. However, if it were me, I'd just run it the way you've been running it with M1 5w-20 oil (don't know that EP means much) and keep up on oil changes ever 5-7K miles with a quality oil filter (I prefer WIX filters myself).
I gave it some thought, and you're right. If the tensioners ever do start to go bad, I should have plenty of time to address it. This truck is mostly a spare. Thanks a bunch.
 
The following users liked this post:
  #6  
Old 07-09-2019, 12:21 AM
VAmountainman's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by ManualF150
Full overhaul, cam lockouts, and a Melling High flow oil pump.

Unfortunately, to do it right, it's not cheap.
I appreciate the suggestion. I won't put that kind of money into this truck. Besides, I have read about some unfortunate folks who do the whole 9 yards and they still have engine noise. If I start hearing the tensioners leaking down, I'll sell the truck. It's just a spare.
 
  #7  
Old 07-29-2019, 12:09 AM
lenore's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts
Switch to 5-30 weight oil also, gives the phasers a little more protection. I just did the phasers, solenoids, chains, guides and oil pump to HV. Fixed the diesel sound and engine is actually quiet. I just cleaned the throttle body and replace Sensor 1 O2 sensors on both sides. Runs better, but still not sure about the COPS. I had to replace one coil pack electrical plug (the locking tab broke) but still wondering if I am getting intermittent misfires. Plugs have about 30k miles and truck has 136k miles.
 

Last edited by lenore; 09-12-2019 at 01:16 AM.



Quick Reply: Preventing the cam phaser issue?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:26 AM.