Headlights question for y'all
#1
Headlights replacements
Was looking at my truck's headlights as washed it a few days ago, plastic clear outer lenses starting to show a lot of hazing or crazing …. like fine cracks across the face of them. The headlights on my '01 Mercury look new still, they too are OEM and have similar outer clear smooth lenses? Been thinking of ordering a new pair for the '07 truck with black housings, amber side markers, keeping OEM type bulbs (not projector style).
I am generally satisfied with light output but have seen new ones for about $60 (+ or -) a pair.
Anyone out there using, like, not like them?
I am generally satisfied with light output but have seen new ones for about $60 (+ or -) a pair.
Anyone out there using, like, not like them?
Last edited by tbear853; 08-01-2020 at 09:13 PM.
#2
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#3
If replacing the headlight units, it's required by ALL States to have the DOT Number on the unit. Smalltown USA can and will impound the vehicle. Big towns, the cops are too lazy to get out of their AC to bother with a headlight. Be careful what you buy in regards to headlights. Most States have laws that allows no modification to the unit or bulb- must be factory OEM parts.
#4
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#5
Last edited by tbear853; 12-14-2020 at 12:37 PM.
#6
If replacing the headlight units, it's required by ALL States to have the DOT Number on the unit. Smalltown USA can and will impound the vehicle. Big towns, the cops are too lazy to get out of their AC to bother with a headlight. Be careful what you buy in regards to headlights. Most States have laws that allows no modification to the unit or bulb- must be factory OEM parts.
tbear, if you like the stockers with the black housings, just pick up some FX2 housings online. I also don't have a problem with projector-style housings if you're sticking with halogen bulbs and have them aimed properly, they aren't likely to blind oncoming drivers. I do take issue with the a-holes who throw 55w HID (xenon) bulbs in halogen-projector housings because they have no cutoff and it blinds everyone no matter how you have them aimed. If you do HIDs, get proper retrofitted housings with HID-projectors.
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#7
link to product listing
Last edited by tbear853; 12-14-2020 at 12:44 PM. Reason: added link to thread
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#8
No HIDs ….. or even projectors …
… happy with just regular like lighting with stock halogen bulbs, etc. …
My truck is a FX4, has dark grey housings OEM.
I agree about the improper lighting.
I ordered these just after posting my opening post here on this thread. I had read reviews and I couldn't see markings in advert. They did promise free returns and satisfaction, and they were coming from stateside., promised 4 days or less receipt. Some reviewers mentioned multi layer lens which did not bode well...
… but a couple described outer layer as something sounding like a lense protector, one even mentioned it being loose around the edges.
Well, today they showed up on my doorstep. The outer layer is just a protector layer for shipping. It is stuck on by a mild adhesive, not static cling, but it is not intended to be left on. I peeled it back, there is a really nice lense there, with appropriate markings across both head light bottoms and down along inner edge next to grill shell. They have correct amber side lights, and signals with lamps in place. Headlight hole is sealed to keep light clean until install, the housing is black as I wanted in place of OEM FX4 dark grey. They look great so far. I'll get them on and aimed soon I hope, I'll post back results. Time will tell how they hold up, but I have hope. I am gonna go around the edge with silicone sealer, (and then cover the cured silicone with black gorilla tape where exposed so that I don't disturb the silicone by accident).... first though.
PD1 H13 SAE HR14APP2 06 VOR RH DOT
PD1 H13 SAE HR14APP2 06 VOR LH DOT
QINGTIAN also appears on both as manufacturer ID
On back:
LENS >PC<
BODY >BMC<
BEZEL >PC<
HSG >PP-TD20<
I am shocked that anyone would leave the protective covering on, then write a review about how bad it is?
Edit 071019 …. edges of outer lenses at housing all siliconed, curing now.
… happy with just regular like lighting with stock halogen bulbs, etc. …
My truck is a FX4, has dark grey housings OEM.
I agree about the improper lighting.
I ordered these just after posting my opening post here on this thread. I had read reviews and I couldn't see markings in advert. They did promise free returns and satisfaction, and they were coming from stateside., promised 4 days or less receipt. Some reviewers mentioned multi layer lens which did not bode well...
… but a couple described outer layer as something sounding like a lense protector, one even mentioned it being loose around the edges.
Well, today they showed up on my doorstep. The outer layer is just a protector layer for shipping. It is stuck on by a mild adhesive, not static cling, but it is not intended to be left on. I peeled it back, there is a really nice lense there, with appropriate markings across both head light bottoms and down along inner edge next to grill shell. They have correct amber side lights, and signals with lamps in place. Headlight hole is sealed to keep light clean until install, the housing is black as I wanted in place of OEM FX4 dark grey. They look great so far. I'll get them on and aimed soon I hope, I'll post back results. Time will tell how they hold up, but I have hope. I am gonna go around the edge with silicone sealer, (and then cover the cured silicone with black gorilla tape where exposed so that I don't disturb the silicone by accident).... first though.
PD1 H13 SAE HR14APP2 06 VOR RH DOT
PD1 H13 SAE HR14APP2 06 VOR LH DOT
QINGTIAN also appears on both as manufacturer ID
On back:
LENS >PC<
BODY >BMC<
BEZEL >PC<
HSG >PP-TD20<
I am shocked that anyone would leave the protective covering on, then write a review about how bad it is?
Edit 071019 …. edges of outer lenses at housing all siliconed, curing now.
Last edited by tbear853; 11-12-2019 at 06:14 PM.
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#9
Wow, time flies. Those new headlights have been boxed up too long, so today I swapped them in. I just re-used my lights, put new bulbs in new holders in my OEM set, put the lense protector film on them, and put the box back up on that cabinet top.
Swap was without a hitch, but …. but I noticed the adjusters were backed way way out, like a good 1-1/2 inch from where the old ones were. So I cranked them in with my 4mm hex adapter in a 7/16" gear wrench. I set bot sides same as where the OEM ones were adjusted, so at least headlights qwon't be aimed at tree tops. Going out for supper, will find a good level parking lot & building and adjust them after dark. I generally adjust on high beam with hot spot centered at same level as bulb, straight ahead of my vehicle. That way, low beams don't blind.
Look great!
Later that evening, after aiming, they really looked great.
They must have longer adjustment screws because I had to bring them back up so that once done, them screws were near about where they started and the tips with 4mm hex were very near radiator support. Backed out so far I had to finess my socket on them, so I cut the 4mm hex and about 5 threads off with a Dremel tool, and threaded a couple 6mm-1.0 nuts on each and locked them tight against each other. (well, I threaded the nuts on before cutting) Now, if ever needs adjusting, I'll just use a 10mm wrench.
Swap was without a hitch, but …. but I noticed the adjusters were backed way way out, like a good 1-1/2 inch from where the old ones were. So I cranked them in with my 4mm hex adapter in a 7/16" gear wrench. I set bot sides same as where the OEM ones were adjusted, so at least headlights qwon't be aimed at tree tops. Going out for supper, will find a good level parking lot & building and adjust them after dark. I generally adjust on high beam with hot spot centered at same level as bulb, straight ahead of my vehicle. That way, low beams don't blind.
Look great!
Later that evening, after aiming, they really looked great.
They must have longer adjustment screws because I had to bring them back up so that once done, them screws were near about where they started and the tips with 4mm hex were very near radiator support. Backed out so far I had to finess my socket on them, so I cut the 4mm hex and about 5 threads off with a Dremel tool, and threaded a couple 6mm-1.0 nuts on each and locked them tight against each other. (well, I threaded the nuts on before cutting) Now, if ever needs adjusting, I'll just use a 10mm wrench.
Last edited by tbear853; 11-12-2019 at 06:03 PM.
#10
Keep us updated. I wonder when a cop will pull you over, try to read the little markings on the lamp housing, then run the DOT database to see if your lamp is legitimately approved, or if some offshore Chinese company simply printed on "DOT".
The odds are that it will never happen. Nobody checks things like. The truth is that most cops don't have the training, or tools for enforcement, on most of the vehicle related codes. You ever see a cop with a tire tread depth tool? Or a tint gauge? What about a light meter? And even though some cops like to write tickets for loud mufflers, you just don't see them with decibel gauges to actually measure the noise level. Except for when the Highway Patrol sets up a checkpoint at a Low Rider car show, and they come equipped with scales, measuring devices, and all sorts of tools to document scientific evidence of the vehicle code violation. I love it when they actually have the books, with the pages bookmarked and the sections highlighted, in case someone wants to play lawyer on the side of the road.
Reality is that a lot of parts like lamps, all have correct legal markings, but are aftermarket and those markings are fake. A lot of those LED light bars are illegal, but claim to be approved for use. Just like a lot of those LED headlamp replacements aren't actually approved for use, but claim to be. Those companies never really got DOT approval. The worst is things like tires, and motorcycle helmets. Chinese tires with blowouts. Chinese motorcycle helmets that shatter and break apart.
The odds are that it will never happen. Nobody checks things like. The truth is that most cops don't have the training, or tools for enforcement, on most of the vehicle related codes. You ever see a cop with a tire tread depth tool? Or a tint gauge? What about a light meter? And even though some cops like to write tickets for loud mufflers, you just don't see them with decibel gauges to actually measure the noise level. Except for when the Highway Patrol sets up a checkpoint at a Low Rider car show, and they come equipped with scales, measuring devices, and all sorts of tools to document scientific evidence of the vehicle code violation. I love it when they actually have the books, with the pages bookmarked and the sections highlighted, in case someone wants to play lawyer on the side of the road.
Reality is that a lot of parts like lamps, all have correct legal markings, but are aftermarket and those markings are fake. A lot of those LED light bars are illegal, but claim to be approved for use. Just like a lot of those LED headlamp replacements aren't actually approved for use, but claim to be. Those companies never really got DOT approval. The worst is things like tires, and motorcycle helmets. Chinese tires with blowouts. Chinese motorcycle helmets that shatter and break apart.
#11
Keep us updated. I wonder when a cop will pull you over, try to read the little markings on the lamp housing, then run the DOT database to see if your lamp is legitimately approved, or if some offshore Chinese company simply printed on "DOT".
The odds are that it will never happen. Nobody checks things like. The truth is that most cops don't have the training, or tools for enforcement, on most of the vehicle related codes.. … etc …
The odds are that it will never happen. Nobody checks things like. The truth is that most cops don't have the training, or tools for enforcement, on most of the vehicle related codes.. … etc …
By the way, anyone interested, once aimed, they light the road just exactly like OEM lights as they should since they are identical. I did put new OEM spec halogen headlight bulbs in them, but the other bulbs were Sylvanias and new so I used them. Had to replace a right backup light too, so I just replaced both BU & Tail/Stop bulbs using Sylvania LL bulbs. I saved all old & working bulbs as spares.
Take Care.
11-12-19 update: Looking good still.
Last edited by tbear853; 08-01-2020 at 09:15 PM.