Suggested maintenance on 2008 fx4 with 135k miles
#16
rear differential fluid leak
based on the attached pics, what is the most suspect area of the rear differential fluid leak?
for the fluid to be slung up against the bottom of the bed (as seen in the pics), it would imply the oil is either leaking or making it's way to that linkage that spins (sorry i don't know the name of it)..
Could there be a leak in that specific area OR is it coming form the differential cover and finding its way back to the spinning area? there is obvious wet oil at the differential cover... but is it leaking from there or the spinning linkage area?
is there a common place for this to leak at in this area?
I'm about to do a fluid change and make sure I address any issues at same time... hoping it is coming from the differential cover and the not some seal in the linkage area.
Last edited by Jayvaughn74; 08-08-2018 at 12:00 PM.
#17
That is coming from the axle seal and is getting slung around with the u-joint and shaft.
You'll want to get that corrected before wasting money and polluting the environment. A competent shop that works on rear ends should be able to fix that rather quickly for around $150 in labor and $30 in parts... more or less depending on who you have working on your vehicle and going local shop rates.
You'll want to get that corrected before wasting money and polluting the environment. A competent shop that works on rear ends should be able to fix that rather quickly for around $150 in labor and $30 in parts... more or less depending on who you have working on your vehicle and going local shop rates.
#19
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#24
Early 2008 still had the 2 piece plugs, late 2008 went to a different head design with conventional plugs. If your COP boots are black, old style - brown, new style.
I use rockauto.com for parts.
It doesn't pay to buy differenitial oil online, shipping will kill you. Buy it locally. Diff covers don't use gaskets, you use RTV. Rear diff takes 75W140 full synthetic, if it's limited slip, add one 4 oz bottle of XL-3 additive from the Ford dealer, it's not expensive, I think I paid about 6 bucks last time I bought it. Front takes 80W90 conventional or 75W90 synthetic, no additive. Transfer case uses Ford XL-12 fluid, don't use ATF. XL-12 is 14 bucks a quart from Amazon with free shipping if you buy 2 or more, I don't know how much your dealer would charge.
I use rockauto.com for parts.
It doesn't pay to buy differenitial oil online, shipping will kill you. Buy it locally. Diff covers don't use gaskets, you use RTV. Rear diff takes 75W140 full synthetic, if it's limited slip, add one 4 oz bottle of XL-3 additive from the Ford dealer, it's not expensive, I think I paid about 6 bucks last time I bought it. Front takes 80W90 conventional or 75W90 synthetic, no additive. Transfer case uses Ford XL-12 fluid, don't use ATF. XL-12 is 14 bucks a quart from Amazon with free shipping if you buy 2 or more, I don't know how much your dealer would charge.
#26
Sp546 plugs, new boots, and carb spray.
Took my first plug out and its is some ngk plug and when I looked it up it was coming in Ford mustangs.
I bought this truck several years ago from a corner car lot in another state and paid $18k with every intention of buying a Ford F-150.
How is is the best way to validate this engine is indeed an f150? Everything I see says it is but what about the block?
Appreciate any advice and where I should go from here.
#28
#29
I'd certainly like to go ahead and use these to finish up the job if I can.
#30
Do not replace the whole coil. Those Chinese coils you bought are junk. I suggested you replace just the boots on the original coils. They are sold as boot and spring kits. Check to make sure these fit:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/st...lug+boot,10150
For now, just clean up what you have and use dielectric grease.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/st...lug+boot,10150
For now, just clean up what you have and use dielectric grease.