I have a 2008 ford f150 5.4 v8 lariat with code p0345 and p0349. I decided to sign up for this forum to see if there is any one who resolved this issue. Things I've done new battery new alternator new coils new spark plugs changed out the cam sensors both driver and passenger side. And also did the vct solenoids. Disconnected the negative battery cable clear the code and the same code keeps popping up. I dont have a ticking sound like some trucks it runs good it idles good. I'm thinking it's the pcm or something to do with the electrical but they wires looks good. Has any one had a fix to this problem?

 

Sounds like the timing got advanced.

 

How can u check if the timing got advanced? I also heard I should use thicker oil cause the oil pressure drops and makes the cam phasers go off timing.

 

What you did would not clear the fault codes.
If you look at the code descriptions they both tell you intermittent VCT sensor circuit bank 2.
Look at the harness and plugup for the cause of the intermittent.
If the computer can't operate the sensor, it can't control the cam position.
Good luck.

 

Bluegrass I see I did not know that no wonder the light keeps coming back. Thanks i appreciate it hope that's the problem.

 

I just went through this. Your timing is off. Mine was in bank 1 over retarded . New solenoids, cam phasers, vvt valve, plugs, tensioner, chain. $1764.00 ouch. Still idles a little rough at stops. Going to flush engine. May be some sludge. But yours sounds like timing. Mine is an 04 with 236,000 miles

 

Wow Cathy no way that's alot of money but I think ur right my timing is off ima change the cam phaser on bank 2 driver side and hope that clears up the code. 236,000 miles wow no way that's awesome I hope my truck last that long I love it just sucks the engine the came with has a lot of problems.

 

Look at my earlier post about camshaft scoring. P0345 is the final code I got before I opened up my valve and timing cover. Hope yours is not the same.

 

I think it might b ima have to open up the valve cover it just sucks cause I cant removed the nut on the power steering braket it's frustrating but I'll look into it post thanks Simpleaim.

 

Yeah - that one is a bitch. I think it's an 18mm and you have to get it from below with a wiggle tail and long extension.

Not trying to be coy here, but the problem is "THE CODES" themselves. The Damn P0340 / 0345 and 0344 / 0349 codes have the most stupid, misleading diagnostic descriptions of any of the codes. Yes, they are 'generic across most car lines', but they're ALL stupid and unhelpful. I'm not blaming you for following the procedures. But they send you off on a goose chase after wiring, the CPS sensors or the PCM without even hinting at possible (and I believe MOST common) mechanical causes. When you get the VC off, perhaps you can check some of the following things out - and scope down behind the front cover.

The problem IS: The CPS signal processing by the PCM is not 'interrupt driven', but the software 'polls' (or looks) for the CPS signal when it logically expects a Phaser 'fingery' should pass by the CPS sensor - within a certain 'time window' (IDK how wide). If it doesn't see it ----- P0340 / 0345 is set. One if _during startup / cranking_ (hence the suggestion of starter). If it sees it sometimes but misses it other times (intermittent), you can get the other.

Unfortunately those electrical issues can cause it. Failed sensor can cause it. Low or weak battery can cause it. BUT SO CAN SEVERAL MECHANICAL ISSUES that the code description seems to ignore.

Sometimes - if a chain guide breaks (common occurrence), a piece of plastic can fly up around the phaser and bend one of the fingers the CPS sensor should sense, making the hall effect signal weaker. Sometimes - NEW phasers get these fingers bent (slightly) in shippment and results in these codes occurring AFTER A TIMING JOB.



Low oil pressure and/or internal phaser wear / failure can ALSO cause these codes. The Phaser has a spring loaded 'locking pin' inside it that should capture and hold the phaser at base _NO RETARD_ during startup. If idle oil pressure is inadequate to push phaser to base postion during/before shutdown, and/or the locking pin fails to capture the phaser at 'base' zero retard, the phaser will be in improper position at startup and result in P0340 / P0345. NOTE: the code is 'STICKY'. Once it occurs (even intermittently) the CEL stays on until it has NOT occurred for two or three drive cycles - even though the original cause has dissappeared. ///This could be the reason you report your truck runs fine ///.

Also a defective or intermittent (sticky) VCT solenoid can cause these codes. AND the codes are _STICKY_. Meaning that once triggered, even if the condition dissapears, the code remains until reset, or several drive cycles are completed without their re-occurance. So the code doesn't mean the problem that caused it is present NOW. This can be a temporary condtion that only occurs once in a while.

ALSO, if timing chain jumps a tooth (out of time by one or two chain links) will produce these codes. Regrettably, you cannot verify phaser internals OR chain timing by removing valve covers. You can marginally tell if chains have lots of slack or perhaps (with a bore scope) you can tell if you have severly broken chain guides - though not very conclusively if theyre just busted.

If you have other phaser symptoms, lots of miles or you DO determine guides are broken - I would recommend removing the oil pan and see if pieces of broken guides are clogging up the oil pump pickup screen. That can degrade idle oil pressure when hot - also causing the phaser to fail to lock at base, and result in generation of these codes on next startup.

Good luck

 

Thanks for ur advice ur completely dead on! I think it's for sure got to do with the timing phaser issue or it skipped a tooth or two. Now I'm thinking should I get it diagnosed properly cause its alot of labor to take the timing cover off.
I'm just frustrated with this code honestly it's a pain can b some many different things it sucks. So if u guys have advice I would appreciate it and another thing trying to find a good mechanic a good ford one at that.

 

Most do a pretty good job on this forum... Throughout the years I've seen some of the "minds" come together solve some stuff on here that otherwise even the best mechanics would have trouble finding -- through the Internet too....

Good luck.

 

Yes they do u guys know ur stuff I'm glad I got on this forum very helpful and u guys tell it how it is! Team F150's.

 

@Clos;
Thanks for the PM. I'll answer here for benefit of the discussion or other members.


Unfortunately, your term 'properly diagnosed' might be an 'oxymoron'. Best you can hope for is a process of elimination to find out what it is NOT (negative logic).


It is true that the alternator can cause these codes if one of the three diodes in the alternator fails. It will still charge the battery, pass diagnostics and appear OK, but creates 'noise' on the +12 circuit that 'confuses' the PCM when it is monitoring sensitive signals like those from the CPS sensors. /// Yours is all on one side which makes this less likely the cause ///.


You can eliminate alternator as the cause by Charging your battery real good. Clear Codes . Disconnect the alternator cable running from the alternator to the battery - (after the rectifier harness junction) - at the battery and Tape it up / insulate it temporarily. Then drive the vehicle multiple (about three) drive cycles (Startups - put in gear and drive some distance, Doesn't have to be far). If the codes do not come back running solely on the battery, you can pretty much suspect Alternator or Rectfier harness is the problem.

If the codes return, you can further narrow the cause (somewhat) to phaser internals, chain timing, or oil pressure deficiency - (but who cares at this point / gotta' open her up at this point anyway). If you unplug both VCT solenoids while idling and slightly elevate RPMs (to about 800 - 900) a couple of times, that should raise oil pressure to 35 or 40 lbs and be enough to insure both phasers move to base NO-RETARD position. Clearl codes, then drive the vehicle multiple drive cycles. You will have 'vct circuit codes', but if the 345 - 349 code does not come back - you can 'assume' the locking pin inside phaser is capturing and holding the phaser at base position - AND chain timing is NOT off. But if those codes come back - you don't know much more than you did already. It could be a Faulty NEW VCT - OR phaser internals, OR chain off a tooth.
If you have the ability to read CAM ERROR from OBDII, you can tell if "CAMS" are not positioned properly - but that could be phaser internals OR chain off a tooth or to, so you do not know much more.


Basically I propose - steel chains do ware out and 147,000 miles is NOT totally unreasonable life for them. I made it to 180k and screwed with various codes to 212k before doing a timing job. If you have to go in - might as well do phasers / chains and everything. I believe you are at the point where a full timing job with oil pump - the works - is in order.


Good luck - I hope someone proves me wrong.

 

Yes sir ur exactly right I did all that and code keeps coming back. Now I have no choice but to open here up and do the timing job new chains phasers tensioners oil pump guides the whole chabang!. I dont think anybody will prove u wrong. Thank u for the advice I appreciate it ur a Good man.