I have a 2006 Ford 150 - Harley Davidson Edition. I am her original owner. She has approximately 132K miles. At 100K miles I had the following maintenance performed.

* BG Transmission flush.
* BG Brake flush.
* BG Powersteering flush.
* BG Coolant flush.
* Replaced all the spark plugs.
* Replaced the fuel filter.
* Replaced the PCV valve.
* Replaced the battery.

As you can see, I am very much into keeping my truck very well maintained. Since having the 100K mile maintenance performed, I have only changed the oil. However, now (sometimes) I am noticing / feeling a shudder when I take my foot of the gas.

For example...Yesterday, I went down Linton Hall Rd. (I live in Bristow, VA) and accelerated hard until I hit 60 MPH. I didn’t notice any shudder or problems. When I took my foot off the gas pedal (at 60), I noticed a shudder. The shudder was for a brief second and then it went away. I accelerated again to 60 MPH and no problems. I took my foot off the gas pedal and no shudder. What the heck is going on?

I drove to the gas station, filled my truck with gas, and put a can of BG 44K in it. I am hoping that it will correct the problem. Also, I just ordered a Motocraft fuel filter (via eBay) and will install it this weekend.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks for your help,
Donald

 

Hi and welcome!

There are many more items involved in maintaining these trucks - you may have missed a few. I'll get to that later.

Did you pull any codes? What about pending codes ( refer to this: http://www.d-tips.com/general/articl...icle.aspx?id=5). Codes can be present without setting the CEL.

If so - please post them. You could be seeing random low-grade misfires.

What plugs were used? New boots & springs? Proper application of dielectric?

Was the MAF and TB cleaned?

Maintenance:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/5060315-post6.html

Additionally, rear LS diffs require fluid changes R&R every 3 years or 30K miles or so due to the FM having hydrophyllic properties.

BTW - that was a trans flush using a cleaning chemical? Not recommended - a straight exchange (after a pan drop/filter change/pan & magnet clean/add ~5quarts back to pan) is preferred to avoid potential future issues attributable to the chemicals. MerconV was the trans fluid used, right? Not a 'univesral' fluid?

Hopefully others will chime in to elaborate / correct any of the above, lol.

good luck
MGD

 

I'm guessing they used BG transmission flush chemicals and their universal ATF - not a good move. "Flush" machines should only be used to do a straight fluid exchange using certified Mercon V fluid without any flush chemicals or additives.

I'm guessing the shudder may have been the torque converter not unlocking correctly.

Also - BG44K used to be an excellent gas additive, but it no longer is due to VOC regulations. The recommended additive is now Techron or Gumout with Regane.

Fuel filters should be changed every 30k, and if the diffs have never been serviced it's time. Same with the transfer case if you have 4wd.

 

Thanks MGDfan for the information. I didn’t pull any codes. I actually don’t know how and the “check engine” light has never come on. What are random low-grade misfires and how can I prevent them?

All of the maintenance has been performed by two local Ford dealerships (Sheehy and Battlefield). I'm assuming that they used OEM plugs. Also, I have not put any boots and / or springs on her. Should I consider doing that?

Proper application of dielectric...I have no idea what you mean and I don't know if the MAF and TB was cleaned :-) What does MAF and TB refer to? I have had the front and rear differential fluid changes but I forget at what mileage they were changed. I am going to check my records when I get home.

Regarding the BG transmission flush...It was performed by the Ford dealership. I do know that MerconV was used. I believe 16 quarts was replaced.

Thanks again for your help.
Donald

 

Thanks glc for the information. I will do some investigating in the torque converter not unlocking correctly. If it's a cheap repair, I will get the local Ford dealership to fix it.

I am hoping that Techron or Gumout is cheaper than BG 44K :-)

I have had the front and rear differentials and transfer case fluid changed. How often should the fluid be changed?

Thanks,
Donald

 

Probabilities are high that it is the slip yoke on the driveshaft. Ford has a TSB on it. You'll need to pull the driveshaft, clean all of the parts, and regrease it. I'd strongly suggest getting the correct grease at your local Ford dealer as the spec is highly specific. Sorry, I don't have the TSB number at hand but it addresses a shudder and a bump condition when letting off of the gas.

 

Hi.

MAF cleaning: https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...005-5-4-a.html

TB cleaning: https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...ttle-body.html

Dielectric grease application: https://www.f150online.com/forums/47...post71084.html

Misfires are events where the fuel mixture fails to ignite in the cylinder when commanded. Causes are worn/faulty plugs, defective COP's, poor COP/plug connections, arcing within the boot, defective injectors, fault in the wiring harness between PCM and injector, bad gas, closed intake valve due to a valvetrain issue, improper air-fuel mixture... and a few others. Diagnosis starts with pulling stored codes.

Always install new boots and springs every plug change - it's only $32 worth of parts ( no idea what a dealer charges though).

Looks like you need to revisit the work that was done and obtain a comprehensive list of the work and the parts used. What was the guarantee period? You may have some recompense - just SWAG here.


good luck
MGD

 

Thanks Labnerd for the information. I plan on calling the Ford dealership, mention the TSB, and setup a time for them to resolve the problem :-)

Thanks again,
Donald

 

Thanks for the very helpful information. This afternoon when I get in my truck, I am going to do the same thing (accelerate to 60 and then take my foot of the gas) that I did yesterday and see what happens.
Thanks,
Donald

 

This is exactly what's happening. I am not sure what the fix was.

Shudder Problem

D-

 

Considerably cheaper. Note that the Gumout needs to be the version with "Regane".

Every 100k, rear diff more often if you have a moisture issue.

A low grade misfire doesn't happen when you lift off the gas - it happens after it shifts into overdrive and the converter locks under light acceleration - around 45 mph if you give it just a bit more gas it will feel like shuddering, give it more gas to unlock the converter and/or cause a downshift it smooths right out. If this is really what's happening (and as you indicated, you wash the engine) you probably have some weak coils now.

 

Thanks glc for the information. The front and rear and transfer case were serviced at approximately 112K miles.

Also, I really paid attention when I was driving home...I got up to 60 MPH, took my foot off the pedal, and coasted until 45 MPH. I stepped on the gas at 45 MPH and nothing happened. I got up to 60 MPH again, took my foot off the pedal, and coasted until 35 MPH. I stepped on the gas at 35 MPH and it shuddered and I heard a pop. I made it shudder and pop twice at 35 MPH.

Do you think that I should have all the coils and spark plugs replaced (again)?

Thanks,
Donald

 

If you only have 30k on OEM Motorcraft plugs, they "should" be okay - I'd suspect one or more coils.

Are you capable of changing your own coils? If so, give a set of these a try, a full set costs less than 2 OEM coils:



Stop washing your engine.

 

I will definitely stop washing my engine! How do you clean your engine when it's dirty?

I have never changed my coils but I am willing to. Do you have a good reference that would aide me in changing my coils?

Thanks,
Donald

 

Many auto detail shops will "steam clean" the engine bay for a modest amount. It does a good job, and uses considerably less pressure and water.