How to replace pinion seal 2004-2008
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
Originally Posted by warrior150
does anybody know what I can do if I didn't mark or count threads? my 06 f150 with 9.75 seal was leaking so I pulled and put in new seal, but I pulled an idiot move and didn't mark it. am I totally screwed?
Originally Posted by PeteC
... etc ...
This is from the manual:
During Removal:
"Remove the rear brake drums. (This is so they don't drag and disturb the torque measurment)
4. Install an inch-pound torque wrench on the pinion nut and record the torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion through several revolutions.
5. CAUTION:
After removal of the pinion nut, discard it. A new nut must be used for installation.
For Installation:
Under no circumstances is the pinion nut to be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut must be installed.
Using the special tool to hold the pinion flange, tighten the pinion nut. (This is just an arm like bar that is bolted to the flange to keep it from rotating)
Rotate the pinion occasionally to make sure the cone and roller bearings are seating correctly.
Install a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench on the pinion nut.
Rotating the pinion through several revolutions, take frequent cone and roller bearing torque preload readings until the original recorded preload reading is obtained.
If the original recorded preload is lower than specifications, tighten to the appropriate specifications for used bearings (8 to 14 in-lbs). If the preload is higher than specification, tighten the nut to the original reading as recorded.
This is from the manual:
During Removal:
"Remove the rear brake drums. (This is so they don't drag and disturb the torque measurment)
4. Install an inch-pound torque wrench on the pinion nut and record the torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion through several revolutions.
5. CAUTION:
After removal of the pinion nut, discard it. A new nut must be used for installation.
For Installation:
Under no circumstances is the pinion nut to be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut must be installed.
Using the special tool to hold the pinion flange, tighten the pinion nut. (This is just an arm like bar that is bolted to the flange to keep it from rotating)
Rotate the pinion occasionally to make sure the cone and roller bearings are seating correctly.
Install a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench on the pinion nut.
Rotating the pinion through several revolutions, take frequent cone and roller bearing torque preload readings until the original recorded preload reading is obtained.
If the original recorded preload is lower than specifications, tighten to the appropriate specifications for used bearings (8 to 14 in-lbs). If the preload is higher than specification, tighten the nut to the original reading as recorded.
Assuming you haven't over tightrened it already and crushed the crush sleeve ..... this is the best you can do now ..... if you over tightened the nut you'll ruin the pinion bearings.
Last edited by tbear853; Aug 19, 2014 at 08:24 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2006
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hey guys, not trying to be a spoiled sport or anything but after several talks with different people, i just took my 06 screw to the Ford dealership in a neighboring town and they did it for 146.00 out the doo with warranty....i was pleased but i'm easy like that...LOL
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From: Spring, TX
You might notice some vibration in the drive-train.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Indianapolis, area
My turn on tackling this job except mine appears to be leaking around the nut that holds the flange on to the pinion shaft. All of the oil is around that nut and the U-joint.
I've seen a post on one of the other F150 site that mentioned putting a non-hardening adhesive or caulk on the splines of I think the flange. Is this something I should do or should just replacing the seal be good enough?
I've seen a post on one of the other F150 site that mentioned putting a non-hardening adhesive or caulk on the splines of I think the flange. Is this something I should do or should just replacing the seal be good enough?
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Joined: May 2015
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kellingwood
I would be curious to know the answer to this question also as someone did a seal replacement job on my 2003 ford f-150 xlt 4-wheel drive truck, and didn't mark or count the threads either.what do I do??
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,031
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
It refers back to post #11 for such cases.
.
Last edited by tbear853; Jun 4, 2015 at 09:17 AM.
Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 29
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From: Malta NY
Additional question.
First, red or blue locktite for the big nut and driveshaft nut? Second, I have everything apart and letting it drain now. While removing seal, I gently nudged the pinion bearing and noticed it wiggles a little, both in and out and up and down, doesn't turn. I didn't play with it, but is that normal or is something else wrong? Rather fix it now before I put it back together.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Wilmington,NC
I'm no expert but I think the 8-14 in lb reading on the pinion nut is when the differential has been disassembled and the carrier is removed. i think the reading should be higher with the carrier and axles installed.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Malta NY
I'll answer my own question. Bolted everything back up and zero play. I dumped 32 ounces into the fill port and it wasn't enough! I did let it drain overnight. Lastly, the fill plug was a pain. I suggest removing the fill plug while everything is apart. Easier with everything out of the way.
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Joined: Jul 2017
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From: Bloomburg, TX
Stiff Rear u-joint 2nd seal replacement
I replaced the seal at around 83,000 miles. This week I replaced the seal again. The u-joint was movable, but seemed quite stiff. I removed the shaft and removed the u-joint. The joint was still well lubricated after 98,00 miles. The journals showed no wear and were smooth. I replaced the u-joint since it was apart. The joint is now easily manipulated. Of course, the R&R procedures were carefully followed, marking parts and counting threads.
My thoughts about this center on the u-joint and I wonder if the seal was affected by the stiffness in the driveline. As a shade tree mechanic (now 70, having purchased my first car at 15) I am interested in garnering a better understanding of this seal failure.
My thoughts about this center on the u-joint and I wonder if the seal was affected by the stiffness in the driveline. As a shade tree mechanic (now 70, having purchased my first car at 15) I am interested in garnering a better understanding of this seal failure.
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how to replace pinion seal 2004 - 2008
really old post but it was a lot of info. im attempting it in 2017. is all the intricacy really needed??? excellent post and procedures!!!! If I took it to a shop, would THEY DO ALL THIS??? or would I have future problems???? Im really interested in the problems stated on reinstallation.
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From: Bloomburg, TX
Replace piņon seal
This is an old mechanic process. Putting in a new crush selve is very difficult for most of us that do field repairs. I am a 70 year old shade tree mechanic who bought his first Ford at age 15. Put a paint Mark on the nut and shaft as well as your socket. Count the revolutions all the way off, to include the last fraction. Remove and replace the seal. The nut is then spun on by hand while counting revolutions. Place the marked socket on the nut. Continue counting. The last revolution and fraction therof will be very resistant to force. If you forgot to count, put the nut on , giving it 15 revolutions, until you do recieve significant resistance to force. Then give it a turn and a small fraction therof. That small fraction will test you. Just a turn may be sufficient. Do not use a cheater bar. Then check the u-joint. Replace it if it is stiff. I do not know why mine was stiff. I replaced the flange the second time I did the seal. My first change was done while on a trip. I noticed the stiffness of the u-joint then. The second effort proved the u-joint had increased in stiffness.