yes, mine came with a new spindle nut.

 

Thanks!

Another question, I know it probably varies but is it difficult (requiring special tool) pulling the original hub off the spindle? Does it require a gear puller? I want to limit the number of tools I need to get. The huge poundage torque wrench is going to be bad enough.

 

Before buying any specialty tools, most auto parts stores loan or rent them.

 

no. you will need the big assed socket to get the nut off. the spindle should slide right off. also, if u buy the big assed torque wrench from harbor freight, dont bugger it up and clean it off after use and take it back. thats what I did. also, i doubt you will find a torque wrench that big for loan or rent at an auto parts store.

 

You need a 36MM for the spindle nut. With the 20% off coupons from HF, it's best to keep the wrench imo. My Kobalt Impact was great for removing it and then got it on with the Torque wrench. The Torque wrench is $79.99 before any coupons. It also comes with a certification of calibration which is nice.

 

I've bought from HF before. Let's just say they don't always carry the most robust merchandise. But then again I don't want to pay $300 for a tool I won't use again for along time since auto repair is not my "day job". I do things myself, like changing out the broken Sienna power sliding door release latch today, because I don't want to pay $$$ to someone else. Going to look around for rental.

 

I know exactly what you mean, however for the tools I have purchased, they've done the job.

 

To torque the nut back on, divide the desired torque by your weight in pounds. Multiply that result by 12. Measure that number of inches from the center of the socket and mark the location with tape on your cheater pipe. Put the socket on the nut with the handle pointing to the right and a bit above horizontal and then slowly stand on the tape mark. If the handle turns much below horizontal reposition the handle above horizontal and repeat until you can put all your weight on the tape mark. The Nut is now torqued pretty close to spec. No $$$ wrench required.

Example 295 torque/ 175 lbs. = 1.685
1.685 x 12 = 20.22 in.

 

Good to know. If I was a professional mechanic I'd probably think again about it but I will consider it if I have no luck renting one.

 

Ah, a little physics. And I'm a degreed Mechanical Engineer and I didn't think of this. torque = radius X Force, force being my weight. Great suggestion.

(sorry, had to use this little guy!)

 

It's an old VW Beetle axle nut trick I learned from my dad. Who happens to be a Mechanical Engineering Professor. I'm sure he used the formula you posted when he explained it to me.

 

good prices and same thing roc auto sells http://www.r1concepts.com/default.aspx

 

I just got my kits for both sides from Amazon today with some new brake pads. The local store here only rents up to 250ft/lbs torque wrench. I was reading that get it on to 250 then 1/8th turn more? Or is it good at 250lbs?

 

You NEED to go to spec. Everything mounts to that hub.

 

Finally got around to installing them..man my stock rotors was hash!!!

This is what it looked like before the swap..








Now I gotta do the back..Never been changed since 2004..lol!!