so it looks like im going to be going with quick lifts in the front, and rs9000s for the rear. youd be dumb not to since the cost of the quick lifts is pretty close to the cost of the front shock alone.

rancho's site says 2.5 inches of lift, however on 4wheelparts you can get a 2 inch or 1.5 inch. im looking for 2 inches, is it adjustable or something?

then the rear rs9000s are around 100 bucks a piece right? so general price is 600 bucks for all 4 corners?

if it does do 2.5 inches, id like to do that, but would want to raise my back end a half inch. how can you do that? i found in some guys thread a while back that autospring was going to send him a cut piece of a leaf, and that would get him a half an inch. anyone else heard of this? if i can get the back up .5 inches and the front up 2.5, that would be ideal. i would do the 3 inch as block, but from what i read, the stock block is shorter than 2 inches, so it would put me up another inch-1.3 inches. and lots of people say the 3 inch block causes more wheel hop, axle wrap, ect.

whatever i do i want it to be the last time i mess with it, i want to get new shocks and struts all the way around, get a good 4 wheel alignment, and be done with it.

might be a dumb question too, but once the quick lifts are in and the back shocks are in, you can still adjust them while there installed right? i see on the site the little **** thing is on the bottom at the side

done some searching but havent found allot of people that actually have the ql's installed, and i know calling rancho will be beating around the bush.

thanks guys

 

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...e-springs.html

I followed this and made some 1/2" blocks, because that was the longest I could get with the stock U-bolts. Ended up not installing them and did 3" blocks instead because 1/2" wasn't going to be enough for me

 

ive never understood what a zero rate is. is it just a small block like in that thread? that doesent count as stacking blocks though right?

 

No, its exactly like you saw in another thread about getting a cut-apart leaf spring, it bolts directly to the leaf spring just doesn't add any extra resistance to the spring. It bolts to the spring, not between the springs and axle like the block does.

 

2in is 4wd strut, 1.5" is 2wd strut

 

I was gonna suggest some 3" X 6" X 1/2" steel plates with two holes and using 4 new bolts exactly like that, it's not stacking blocks because the plate is :

• As flat as an overload spring
• Is bolted in with the spring pack so it can't slip out or add "flop".

But there is no way I'm gonna be using a chain and a engine hoist in my hitch recepticle to lift my truck. That's a huge load on the hoist and too close to tail gates, etc.

Better to jack the truck with a floor jack, set stands under the frame in front of springs, and then do your plates one side at a time using the floor jack to lower / lift axle.

You can get the spacing and bolt diameter by measuring off the top side and make the plates and even paint them before you start. As he stated 1/2" diameter UNF 20 threads per inch bolts, but if you measure spacing, you'll find it just about exactly 1.5" center to center. You could cut them off after bolting everything back or just leave them a little long.

You might loosen all U bolts some and leave some loose until axle is back on all 4 center bolts, makes it easier to set the axle back on those center bolt heads.

 

so the 4wd ql's are 2 inches of lift? anyone got them and know how much they measured to lift? kinda odd since ranchos site says 2.5 inches.

if it does 2 inches, that would be great, leave it alone, but if it does 2.5 id have to bring the back up.

so your saying i can make any size block i want really? just different thickness metal? and its called a zero rate because its not changing the rate of the leaf pack itself?

another thing i was considering was using an add a leaf but not using the factory rear block. arent some of those AAL's 2.5 inches? who makes aal's so i can go look at them and what have people gotten lift wise out of them. using an AAL doesent hurt ride quality too much from what ive heard, and having a little more payload wont be a bad thing if i got into pulling boats or something

i could have sworn the stock block measures 2 inches, but most say it shorter, however a 2 inch with no factory block will probably only lift me .3 inches or so.

 

Usually with every truck how much the leveling kit says it is going to lift it is going to differ from truck to truck. Id just order whereever you find it the cheapest, 2" or 2.5 since you dont have a preference and install it and your rear shocks. Then look at it and worry about the rear, if it's even needed. You may not have to mess with the rear at all.

 

And you could always look into lift shackles. They make them in small increments.

 

I went with the AS 1.5 to keep some back rake which worked out perfectly, even with a 220 lb. fiberglass cap on back it still has rake. But, mine is 2wd with a OEM 4WD block in the back. I understand your logic if you need shocks and the quick lifts look like a great option. The block I put in measured 1 7/8" (2" for all practical sake) tall - think that is standard up until the '09's when they shortened them.

 

Sure ...... within reason. If you're bolting it to the spring pack with the center bolts before clamping everything with the U bolts it's part of the pack and not simply a block. It's like another leaf but without the ends that add spring rate. Even at 1" thick, it's still 3" wide and likely 5 or 6 inches long. Just follow that link (except I just can't say jack it like that) https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...e-springs.html.

That stock bottom overload leaf is tapered and it's near 3/4" thick there. Certainly a 1/2 or even 1" thick flate plate center (double center bolted on these Fords) bolted is hugely more stable than stacked blocks held just by U bolts because it (the center bolted plate) is part of the spring pack itself then.

Stacked blocks are dangerous because they rely entirely on long U bolts to hold them stacked and alligned around curves, under braking and power, and they are the same only U bolts that secure the axle to the spring pack. Stacked blocks will stretch U bolts in time, leading to loosened u bolts, noise, and clearance in those blocks let's them rock slightly, and then one day in a curve with a load, maybe at 60 mph, maybe as you swerve to correct sway, the stretched U bolt gives up.

I've seen several wrecks where lifted PUs with doubled blocks have done exactly that in my 31+ years as a Trooper. More rare now as people learned and young boys have learned from they daddys, but back in the '70s and '80s I saw a few. There's one I recall where a boy wth a lifted Ford loaded with firewood met a Chevette in a curve down near Rapp's Mill and his let go when he jerked to get back on his side.


Not sure what you mean there, but my '07 FX4 rear block that was factory & that I recently removed ...
... was exactly 2" high.

 

i know ive measured my stock block it measures 2 inches, but if you read about the 3 inch autospring block allot of people seem to think its like 1 and 5/8s or something crazy.

i guess ill do just that, quick lifts, and the rear rs9000s and then if it turns out to lift my front 2.5 inches, then ill have to look into bringing the rear up.

i did mean to ask about lift shackles, .if i knew where to purchase them thats probably the route id do.

final question is if i wanted to put a 3 inch rear block, or half inch zero rate, or small lift shackle, will firestone ride rite air bags still work? i was debating doing the rancho 4 inch lift, but not sure if that works, i think you have to fab up a new bracket.

 

My quick lifts' gave me 2" exactly.

 

woohoo. perfect. thank you sir

 

Another option for the rear lift I just remembered reading about you may be interested in for bringing the back up 1/2" https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...cs-inside.html