I learned something new today that may shed light on some of the brake problems many of us have experienced. I was told that over tightening lug nuts can warp rotors. I’ve read a lot of post about warped rotors but nothing about this. Maybe this is common knowledge and I’m the last person to know….at any rate my information source suggested the strick use of a torque wrench when tightening lug nuts. He said the common practice at your local tire store is to use the air hammer (which can actually over tighten the nuts) then go back with a torque wrench and make sure they are secure. THIS PRACTICE IS WHAT CAN CAUSE PROBLEMS BECAUSE THE AIR HAMMER OVER TIGHTENS THEM TO BEGIN WITH. If you are going to use an air hammer it should be set at a lower setting then use a torque wrench to bring it up to the specified torque setting. The correct practice is to use a properly calibrated torque wrench period. The air hammer is just a time saver for the workers. He also suggested (and I did know this) tightening the lug nuts in a criss cross pattern.

 

Glad I rotate my wheels myself and torque them to spec 150lbs per lug. Even better, glad I have my slotted rotors. Braking is excellent.

 

What kind of rotors?

 

Yep. Overtightening lugs is bad. Can warp brakes and also cause a shimmy. I set impact to medium and it seems to apply about 100 lbs force. Then I use tq wrench to finish her up.... 70k miles here and brakes all original and about half gone. May replace rotors and pads all round to get rid of brake dust though.

 

Over tightening lugs and thermal shock are the two main causes for warped rotors. Thermal shock would be riding the brakes real hard then running through a puddle. Of course some manufactures are more prone then others.

 

It is not so much over tightening being the problem, but have each lug torqued different. If 1 lug is at 100ftlb and another is at 175, it allows the rotor to expand and contract differently in different areas. That warps the rotors.

 

I got 38K out of my factory rotors, replaced the brakes and turned the rotots (4X2) and got another 12K out of them, then I got new ones because the shake came back. They are like $90 each so I tried to make them last.

I have always used a impact gun, and I very seldom have any issues.
It works for me, and if you don't like it im sorry. been helping my dad and doing brake jobs for the past 9 years and no one has ever companied.
In all that time ive only ever ruined one stud, that I replaced out of my pocket.

Personally, I think warped rotors happens more often due to heat shock (riding the brakes then hitting water) and rapid temperature changes than anything else.

But hey, everyone is allowed a opinion right?

 

Sure, but I only let people who use a torque wrench put my wheels on, and I ask before I have them do the work. Slamming them on with an impact is old school that worked fine back in the days of drum brakes and heavy rotors. Today's rotors are made as light as they can get away with to save weight and manufacturing costs. Torque specs are for following no matter what they are for.

 

Check these out front and rear rotors and front rear pads all for 218 bucks. I ordered mine, have 5,000 miles on them and no issues. Just so you know, if you are interested and planning on replacing them. here is a link!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Silve...Q5fAccessories


There is a topic about these already on here with great reviews but do dont remember where.

 

I would like to read this review. I've heard so many things about cracks and premature wear from drilled and/or slotted rotors. I would love to hear from someone who has run them for a few years....

 

Well if you torqued them properly, they may not have warped at all. I have not had any warped rotors since 1993, and that includes when my calipers were sticking to the point the rotor turned blue from the heat on my 04, and a total of about 250k miles in multiple trucks. Have also never had to turn rotors.

 

the rotors on the truck where badly scarred and I wanted to try and save them, my factory pads wore out at 38K (truck had 20K when I got it) and I replaced pads and turned rotors.

To be honest, I had no idea my pads where that low, i didn't think to check them I figured id get at least 40-50K out of the stockers. Guess not.
I was rotating tires and noticed the pads where low (not even a squeak from the squealer) and got new ones that day.

I want a 4X4 convert kit so bad, I hate the one piece rotors.

F.Y.I we got a 2500 chevy van with 118K miles on stock pads, half worn, still going.

Also, ill turn them once, maybe twice but I always check to make sure they are in spec, used to have to turn my rears all the time on my old mustang and the fronts on the grand am, cause for some reason they always seemed to warp a lot.

Tires also didn't seem to last on the rear of the mustang for some strange reason.


Even after I turned them they where not perfectly round (checked with a mic, and one side I had to cut a bit more than the other like .002thds. but I cut both sides anyway.) and I managed to get another 12K out of them before they got bad again.
(yes I cut both sides evenly)

By that time dad just replaced them for me (i pay for his cell, for the past 3-4 years) and that was at 48/50K. going on 60K now (57,8XX) and have had no issues.

I could go get my little log book and show the exact date and miles if I wanted to, im just guessing.

(don't take this the wrong way,I just been wanting to use this pic for a while)