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help with my spark plug choice

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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 09:35 AM
  #31  
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From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Originally Posted by FordMX293
The MC SP507 are great plugs for these trucks modded or not. I wouldnt use any other brand in these trucks because of the plug problem. I put them in mine recently and couldn't be happier. The E3's are very good also
Look at the post above yours concerning E3s. There have been several try them and had to remove them in just a few thousand miles.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 11:35 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Bluejay
Look at the post above yours concerning E3s. There have been several try them and had to remove them in just a few thousand miles.
I am one of those. Atleast I hope it fixes the vibration and ticking at idle. Was never there before the e3's.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 11:37 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by HCBPH
So far it's running great and the motor is actually showing slightly lower rpms at 60 mph with the Champions vs MC plugs. At this time, I have no complaints what-so-ever with the Champions.

.
The bold part makes no sense. These trucks have a lock up convertor. Therefore RPM X GEAR RATIO= MPH.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 11:40 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by mustangguy289
Where do you find the right anti-sieze? Ive got to get these damned E3's out of my truck.
Both Ford and I think permatex have it....

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-77124.../dp/B0002UENJ2
 

Last edited by 88racing; Apr 13, 2011 at 11:54 AM.
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 04:04 PM
  #35  
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Put Champions in at 103k after half of my stockers broke. At 120k now with zero issues, definitely happy with the replacement and the peace of mind when having to change them again.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 04:44 PM
  #36  
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The champion is a one piece, I had to go with motorcraft for a lower heat range otherwise I would have used a one piece design.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 09:49 PM
  #37  
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If you need a low heat range, use Brisk plugs and change them every 25k.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 10:19 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by mustangguy289
Where do you find the right anti-sieze? Ive got to get these damned E3's out of my truck.
Napa auto parts sells an 8oz bottle for around $21.49 instead of the 16oz bottle for $38.49. Too bad they don't a 1oz tube in the nickel like the other compounds.

BTW, I know your only suppose to put the compound on the electrode shaft but have any of you used it on the threads of the spark plugs?

I just bought my sp515 today at Oreilly's for 7.99 each, but they didn't have the nickel anti-seize compound. Is it really necessary to have the one piece deepsocket with built in extension? I figured I would use some 3m electrical tape on the socket to the extension to prevent seperation of the two tools. Have any of you had a problem with the socket coming off inside the well?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 10:29 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Baditude
Napa auto parts sells an 8oz bottle for around $21.49 instead of the 16oz bottle for $38.49. Too bad they don't a 1oz tube in the nickel like the other compounds.

BTW, I know your only suppose to put the compound on the electrode shaft but have any of you used it on the threads of the spark plugs?

I just bought my sp515 today at Oreilly's for 7.99 each, but they didn't have the nickel anti-seize compound. Is it really necessary to have the one piece deepsocket with built in extension? I figured I would use some 3m electrical tape on the socket to the extension to prevent seperation of the two tools. Have any of you had a problem with the socket coming off inside the well?
Do NOT use the anti-sieze on the threads of the plug. The Motorcraft plugs already have a coating on the threads for aluminum heads, adding anything else will give a false torque reading. The socket-tape-extension trick should work for you also
 
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Old May 1, 2011 | 10:33 AM
  #40  
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Thanks for the quick responce. I didn't know about the coating but I did know that you your not suppose to put anti-seize on the plugs. Almost all of the makers of anti-sieze say to use it on the threads of spark plugs, but Ford does not reccomend it.
 
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Old May 19, 2011 | 01:21 PM
  #41  
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I went with the e3 3.70 and they lasted 3 weeks until a misfire on 2 cylinders...champions went in and were great for a few thousand miles and now seems like it is on 7 cylinders...no power and slight rough idle...
I bought msd coils but was waitng for better weather to install...
now I think I wil spend the $$$ for the Brisk plugs...

not meaning to ofend...but after the hassle of removing the stock plugs
with only 40k there is no way I would install motorcrap or autolite 2 pc plugs...I agree the truck ran great with them in but why would I want to spend another weekend changing plugs because some fat cat suit thinks it's not his problem to fix...

I found a place selling the Brisk plugs for under $140/8...
I can pull the champions out install them and the new coils in about an hour.
leaving me the rest of the weekend to do as I wish and knowing if I choose/need to take the plugs out I can do so without issue..priceless

There might be a reason the 2 part plugs are so much cheaper than the others...

my $.02
 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #42  
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Hey HCBPH, spark plugs have nothing to do with higher/lower RPM's. Transmission gearing and rear differential ratios do.
 
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Old May 30, 2011 | 11:28 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Bluejay
Why would you not want to go with a plug that has performed flawlessly for 90,000 miles. Just replace them and keep on truckin.
No one beat me, I have 138,000 on the stock plugs, It still runs great. I will be getting them changed soon though.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 10:09 AM
  #44  
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RPM's

Originally Posted by mustangguy289
The bold part makes no sense. These trucks have a lock up convertor. Therefore RPM X GEAR RATIO= MPH.
Just saw this, can't argue with the logic but having just made a 500 mile roadtrip the other week, at 60 mph the dash tach showed about 100-150 rpm's less that it has for the previous 2 years, only change being the plugs. Mainly flat land running cruise. Unless the tach suddenly decided to read different than it has for the past couple of years at 60 mph, something else is going on. Only thought I have is more efficient would equal more torque (I understand the concept of lockup torque convertor but nothing else has changed so why?), which could mean running at slightly lower rpm's. I can't explain why, only that it appears correct.

I'm still getting better mileage both around town and on the highway.

Paul
 

Last edited by HCBPH; May 31, 2011 at 10:13 AM.
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Old May 31, 2011 | 10:56 AM
  #45  
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From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Originally Posted by Intimidator317
I went with the e3 3.70 and they lasted 3 weeks until a misfire on 2 cylinders...champions went in and were great for a few thousand miles and now seems like it is on 7 cylinders...no power and slight rough idle...
I bought msd coils but was waitng for better weather to install...
now I think I wil spend the $$$ for the Brisk plugs...

not meaning to ofend...but after the hassle of removing the stock plugs
with only 40k there is no way I would install motorcrap or autolite 2 pc plugs...I agree the truck ran great with them in but why would I want to spend another weekend changing plugs because some fat cat suit thinks it's not his problem to fix...

I found a place selling the Brisk plugs for under $140/8...
I can pull the champions out install them and the new coils in about an hour.
leaving me the rest of the weekend to do as I wish and knowing if I choose/need to take the plugs out I can do so without issue..priceless

There might be a reason the 2 part plugs are so much cheaper than the others...

my $.02
The replacement Motorcrafts are slightly tapered so they will comeout, plus, if you put the nickle anti-sieze on the sleeve, end of problem even on the old plug. It is a non issue.
 
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