2004 - 2008 F-150

Tune Up Time.....

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Old 10-21-2010, 10:21 AM
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Tune Up Time.....

Have an '07 5.4 F150 46,xxx miles that I bought back in August. It's coming up on the 50,000 mile service interval so I figured since I have no clue how the previous owner treated this truck I would basically get a tune up so I know exactly whats going on with my truck. First off the truck runs great and I have zero issues or problems with it. I've only done a few visual mods and the Gotts/DVM mod thus far. I plan to add new exhaust, Gryphon programmer, e-fans and UD pullies and thought that a good tune up was a good place to start. The local Ford dealership where I bought my truck can kiss my ***, as they are asking WAY to much to do what I want done, so I'm getting a reputable local mechanic to do all the work for a much better price. Here is what I'm thinking of getting done:

1. Full Synthetic Oil and Filter Change
2. New Fuel Filter
3. New Plugs (Local mechanic quoted me $304 parts and labor with no extra charge for broken plugs, much better than the $450 + $80 per broken plug the dealer wants)
4. Trans flush and re-fill

I typically do all the work that I can on my vehicles. But since I can't do the trans flush and I don't want to mess with the plugs I'll just have my mechanic take care of it all at once.

Do you guys think this is a good list?? Am I going overboard with having some of this done at 50,000? Should I be considering other things to be done as well?? Thanks in advance for any and all input!!!!!!
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 10:54 AM
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Clean the TB and MAF.

A week or two before the plug change you might want to use some techron in a couple of tanks of gas. This might help clean and soften the carbon deposits on the plug heat shields.
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by BigTerp
Have an '07 5.4 F150 46,xxx miles that I bought back in August. It's coming up on the 50,000 mile service interval so I figured since I have no clue how the previous owner treated this truck I would basically get a tune up so I know exactly whats going on with my truck. First off the truck runs great and I have zero issues or problems with it. I've only done a few visual mods and the Gotts/DVM mod thus far. I plan to add new exhaust, Gryphon programmer, e-fans and UD pullies and thought that a good tune up was a good place to start. The local Ford dealership where I bought my truck can kiss my ***, as they are asking WAY to much to do what I want done, so I'm getting a reputable local mechanic to do all the work for a much better price. Here is what I'm thinking of getting done:

1. Full Synthetic Oil and Filter Change
2. New Fuel Filter
3. New Plugs (Local mechanic quoted me $304 parts and labor with no extra charge for broken plugs, much better than the $450 + $80 per broken plug the dealer wants)
4. Trans flush and re-fill

I typically do all the work that I can on my vehicles. But since I can't do the trans flush and I don't want to mess with the plugs I'll just have my mechanic take care of it all at once.

Do you guys think this is a good list?? Am I going overboard with having some of this done at 50,000? Should I be considering other things to be done as well?? Thanks in advance for any and all input!!!!!!
Hi.

Well - it's a start. And - keeping in mind no past history ..

Consider:

1. Oil - Using MC semi-synth 5w-20 and a MC FL820-s filter - both from Wallymart ( best price, and ya can't beat the quality )

2. Fuel filter - Ensure it's a MC part - most likely an FG-1083

3. Good luck on the plugs - ensure he has the complete and correct set of extraction tools ( and how many of these has he done - and does he FOLLOW the latest TSB to a 'T'? ) Here's a test - ask him to produce the actual TSB he will follow, lol.

4. Tranny fluid exchange - NO FLUSH with chemicals, a pan drop and a filter change. USE Ford's MerconV fluid.

5. Air filter.

6. Check front O2 switchrates.

7. Replace coolant

8. replace front & rear diff fluids and xfer case fluids (if fer-by-fer)

9. What '88 said above, ( thanks - I wuz gettin' to that )

*EDIT* - more crap:

10. Check brake pad wear, and disc condition. Rotate dem tyres at this time since they be off anyhoo ...

11. drop the spare and peek at the FPDM - fuel pump driver module on that thar frame crossmember - these tend to fail due to corrosion at the most inconvenient times

12. While the spare be off - lube up the gearbox/cable mechanism and the bumper-mounted lock, re-inflate the spare (betcha it's flat), and repaint it (betcha it's rusty)

13. replace the serpentine belt - use a Gatorback

14. And then there's this *cough *cough* ...https://www.f150online.com/forums/4111669-post2.html



MGD
 

Last edited by MGDfan; 10-21-2010 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 10-21-2010, 10:58 AM
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Nice list MGDfan
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 88racing
Clean the TB and MAF.

A week or two before the plug change you might want to use some techron in a couple of tanks of gas. This might help clean and soften the carbon deposits on the plug heat shields.
Thanks for the advice!! I've seen the write up on cleaning the TB (I recently cleaned the MAF) but how much of a pain is that to do? Is it worth it to pay my mechanic to do that?
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
Hi.

Well - it's a start. And - keeping in mind no past history ..

Consider:

1. Oil - Using MC semi-synth 5w-20 and a MC FL820-s filter - both from Wallymart ( best price, and ya can't beat the quality )

2. Fuel filter - Ensure it's a MC part - most likely an FG-1083

3. Good luck on the plugs - ensure he has the complete and correct set of extraction tools ( and how many of these has he done - and does he FOLLOW the latest TSB to a 'T'? ) Here's a test - ask him to produce the actual TSB he will follow, lol.

4. Tranny fluid exchange - NO FLUSH with chemicals, a pan drop and a filter change. USE Ford's MerconV fluid.

5. Air filter.

6. Check front O2 switchrates.

7. Replace coolant

8. replace front & rear diff fluids and xfer case fluids (if fer-by-fer)

9. What '88 said above, ( thanks - I wuz gettin' to that )

*EDIT* - more crap:

10. Check brake pad wear, and disc condition. Rotate dem tyres at this time since they be off anyhoo ...

11. drop the spare and peek at the FPDM - fuel pump driver module on that thar frame crossmember - these tend to fail due to corrosion at the most inconvenient times

12. While the spare be off - lube up the gearbox/cable mechanism and the bumper-mounted lock, re-inflate the spare (betcha it's flat), and repaint it (betcha it's rusty)

13. replace the serpentine belt - use a Gatorback

14. And then there's this *cough *cough* ...https://www.f150online.com/forums/4111669-post2.html



MGD

Thanks for the list. A few extra questions for you if you don't mind.

1. My shop uses Valvoline Full Synthetic. Should I stick with the MC oil or is the Valvoline of good quality as well? Why do you say eynthetic blend and not full synthetic?

2. Done

3. I talked EXTENSIVELY with my mechanic regarding the plug issue. They seem extremely knowledgable regarding the issues with my 5.4 3v. He mentioned having an extraction tool and that for the plugs they want the vehicle the night before so they can ensure they get the engine to the proper temperature for plug removal. They said they have done plugs on many of the 5.4 3v with the known plug issues with good results. I feel pretty comfortable with him doing the plugs.

4. Why do you reccomend not flushing the Tranny?? You are saying to just drop the pan and change the filter instead of doing a complete flush? If so, why?

5. Done

6. Got it

7. Done this on my old pickup, can handle that in the driveway. Should I replace with the OEM coolant?

8. It's a 4x4 alright. Will look into having this done as well.

9-13 - Got it

14 - I read most of those posts during my search, but wanted to get some specific feedback for my year, miles etc. Thanks for providing those links though.

Thanks again for the list, and hope I'm not being a pain. Just wanted to feel everyone out and get some reccomendations on getting a good complete maintance job done.
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 12:49 PM
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Hi.

Not a pain at all. If everone did nothing but Search, we'd have no forum at all, no pissing contests - no drama! And that dog simply don't hunt.

I learned much from my tenure on here, self-research, and my many mistakes (and the mistakes of others, lol).

With that in mind, my responses are as bolded below. Independent confirmation and additional input from other members here is most welcome. ok?

--------------

Thanks for the list. A few extra questions for you if you don't mind.

1. My shop uses Valvoline Full Synthetic. Should I stick with the MC oil or is the Valvoline of good quality as well? Why do you say eynthetic blend and not full synthetic?
Valvoline is fine. Any oil that truly meets Ford's WSS-M2C930-A spec (http://www.ilma.org/resources/ford_s...fill_specs.pdf) is fine. MC semi-synh is the factory fill & recommended oil, is cheap, is superb, and actualy outperforms some full synthetics - noteably Mobil1. Can't touch it for the price; can't do much better at ANY price. (refer to Labnerd's posts.)

2. Done

3. I talked EXTENSIVELY with my mechanic regarding the plug issue. They seem extremely knowledgable regarding the issues with my 5.4 3v. He mentioned having an extraction tool and that for the plugs they want the vehicle the night before so they can ensure they get the engine to the proper temperature for plug removal. They said they have done plugs on many of the 5.4 3v with the known plug issues with good results. I feel pretty comfortable with him doing the plugs.
10-4. I'd still bug him fer that TSB, just because ya can, lol.

4. Why do you reccomend not flushing the Tranny?? You are saying to just drop the pan and change the filter instead of doing a complete flush? If so, why?
The vast body of anecdotal evidence suggests that the flushing process (that uses chemical cleaners) can lead to premature failure and is simply not needed on a healthy trans. Use the correct machine to do a straight, full fluid replacement only - no flush cycle. ( refer to GLC's, Darrin Burch's, and Mark Kovalsky's posts).

5. Done

6. Got it

7. Done this on my old pickup, can handle that in the driveway. Should I replace with the OEM coolant?
OEM is fine. Any coolant that meets the Ford spec is also fine. Just say NO to DexCool.

8. It's a 4x4 alright. Will look into having this done as well.
Great. It's the best way to ensure these will now be at a known state. and the fluid can be analyzed to help determine component health as well.

9-13 - Got it

14 - I read most of those posts during my search, but wanted to get some specific feedback for my year, miles etc. Thanks for providing those links though.
Yer welcome.

Thanks again for the list, and hope I'm not being a pain. Just wanted to feel everyone out and get some reccomendations on getting a good complete maintance job done.

Thanks. Good luck sir.

MGD
 

Last edited by MGDfan; 10-21-2010 at 12:56 PM.
  #8  
Old 10-21-2010, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BigTerp
Thanks for the advice!! I've seen the write up on cleaning the TB (I recently cleaned the MAF) but how much of a pain is that to do? Is it worth it to pay my mechanic to do that?
You can do this........
But IDK what your mechanics rates are.
If you feel that you want him to do these, than it may run an hour extra on the service ticket.
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 02:54 PM
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Thanks again guys. The info. provided was truly helpful. After doing some more research I decided that I can handle a few of the things I was going to pay someone else to do. I plan to do the following:

MYSELF
- Change oil and filter
- Change front and rear diff. fluid
- Flush radiator and change fluid
- TB cleaning

MECHANIC
- Plug change
- Tranny fluid change

Still on the fence about changing the transfer case fluid on my own. May be a little to involved for me.
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 04:46 PM
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nice write up MGD!
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BigTerp

Still on the fence about changing the transfer case fluid on my own. May be a little to involved for me.
This is one of the easiest maint. item you can do. The case has a drain and fill plug on it so you can drain straight into a pan and fill through the upper plug until full (MerconV) fluid
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:31 PM
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Most people don't reccomend a transmission fluid flush...Ford being one of them. This is normally a dealer marketing gimmick. All that is needed is a fluid exchange and filter change,
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by sam1947
This is one of the easiest maint. item you can do. The case has a drain and fill plug on it so you can drain straight into a pan and fill through the upper plug until full (MerconV) fluid
Gotcha. I actually peeked under my truck this evening and noticed the transfer case had a drain and fill plug. Didn't see any on the rear diff. though. Does the front and rear diff. have drain plugs our will I have to remove the cover to drain them?

Originally Posted by GTRider245
Most people don't reccomend a transmission fluid flush...Ford being one of them. This is normally a dealer marketing gimmick. All that is needed is a fluid exchange and filter change,
So basically just need to drop the pan and change the filter, right? Is this something I can do in the driveway? If not do I just tell my mechanic to drain and refill the transmission WITHOUT flushing it?

I got to thank all you guys again. I'm getting more and more confident to tackle some of these things thanks to you all!!!
 

Last edited by BigTerp; 10-21-2010 at 08:36 PM.
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BigTerp
Gotcha. I actually peeked under my truck this evening and noticed three transfer case had a drain and fill plug. Didn't see any on the rear diff. though. Does the front and rear diff. have drain plugs our will I have to remove the cover to drain them?



So basically just need to drop the pan and change the filter, right? Is this something I can do in the driveway? If not do I just tell my mechanic to drain and refill the transmission WITHOUT flushing it?
BT - Sam's right - the xfer case is cake.

As for the tranny - a pan drop alone will only replace approx 5 quarts - there are 8+ more left in there. (And yes this part can be done in yer driveway).

That's why an exchange machine is also used - same machine can also 'flush' but specify clearly you only want the exchange.

So the sequence is: fluid exchange, then pan drop (clean the pan), new filter, reuse pan gasket, then add ~5 quarts - and fine tune with confirming measurements (follow the exact procedure as stated in the manual w.r.t. measurement temps and gear selector usage). You don't really want to do the pandrop/filter change first then run old fluid through a nice new filter, do you? lol. But - others may do it the other way around ....

This will require ~18-19 quarts by the time it's all done - so factor in that cost.

Not sure yer feller has one of these - may want to get this done somewhere that does have one. Any other method is problematic.


Here... lemmie page my favourite expert:




MGD
 

Last edited by MGDfan; 10-21-2010 at 08:54 PM.
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Old 10-21-2010, 09:06 PM
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Pan drop and filter change is not necessary when you use an exchange machine. The filters are just screens and seldom ever clog.
 


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