Thanks. Also, thanks for the parts numbers. I am going to get those ordered and hopefully be able to get this project going..

 

06bluemeaniexl: check your PM re: harness part numbers.

I'm not sure why having both door lock/unlock using the E-L kit is a problem. Having only driver's door unlock may only be an option using the factory module, which you're not going to have with a non-power reg. cab module.

Have a look at the wiring diagram when you get it. There's two circuits, one for drivers door unlock/lock and one for all the rest of the doors lock/unlock. I'm not sure you could pull that off with aftermarket stuff, but E-L may have a solution.

 

I just would like to set it up with the wireless so that first press opens the driver's side and second press opens both. Its not a big deal if they both open, but seems like extra work for the passenger side to unlock everytime the driver's side does, especially since 70 - 80% of the time, I drive without a passenger. I'll take a look at it, but its not a deal breaker.

 

Also, are the doors traditional or cable actuated?

 

Yeah, I thought about that too but I couldn't see a way of doing it short of finding a used higher option module (VSM? under panel, driver's side cab corner) and running more wires to facory lock actuators.

I'm using the E-L lock actuator kit for 3-4 months now with booth doors locking/unlocking at the same time. It's no big deal, even with the Ford keyless entry/remote start I also added.

Also more tips:

I used the always on power seat circuit that's up behind the left side of the dash panel near the steering wheel to run the always on power mirrors and E-L lock system. It's a fused 20 or 30 amp circuit and there's a fat ground in the same connector, as long as you're sure you will never add a power driver's seat.

For the power windows, I used the on-when-running trailer 12 volt supply off the fuse box. Fat orange wire which I'm sure you can locate in your wiring book. If you ever think you'll have a trailer that needs the 12 volts (trailer battery charging) I'd look elsewhere.

 

NOT cable.

I used the W01F PL kit and the FD82-K PW kit from a1electric.com

 

Thanks for all your help. I am really excited to start this project

 

Good to know. I was looking at the W01F-712T (Power locks with keyless system) -- http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/...Code=W01F-712T

But I might just go with the power locks kit, and then have the keyless added when I have the remote start added.

 

Official parts list:

OEM Power driver's side mirror -- 8L3Z-17682-EA (Ebay, $60)
OEM Power passenger's side mirror -- 8L3Z-17683-EA (Ebay, $65)
OEM Drivers side door panel - (Ebay, $75)
OEM Passenger side door panel - (Ebay, $80)
OEM Drivers side switch trim panel with switches - (Ebay, $25)
OEM Passengers side switch trim panel with switches - (Ebay, $10)
Electric-Life Power Window Kit -- FD82-K - (A1electric.com, $220)
MES Power door lock kit -- W01F (A1electric.com, $60)
OEM door wire harnesses -- 7L3Z-14630-BA, 7L3Z-14631-BA (Tasca, $100 + shipping for the pair)

Plus:
Factory Wiring Diagram Book
Haynes Manual

 

If you know you are going to add a keyless and remote start later, then just go with the plain W01F.

The Ford RKE/RMST/VSS system is nice and you end up with one Ford keyfob that does it all. If you can do the PW/PL/PM install yourself, adding the keyless is also going to be easy for you.

 

So, you put the Ford keyless in your truck? I'm going to have some more questions for ya down the road

 

Yeah, I did. I'm sick that way...

After doing the PW/PL/PM mod, about a month later, I thought to myself, "Ya know, I really miss ripping the dash up, burning myself with the soldering iron, and holding a crapload of wires up to the wiring diagram."

That and my smart-azz redhead wife says, "you put all that power stuff in but you still can't unlock it remotely like I can with my Taurus..."

 

Lots of part number options there. Plain power mirrors. Or with puddle lights / turn signals / heated and or dimming mirrors. Tasca has a nice chart of all the power mirror options and part numbers. Depends on how much additional wiring you're up for.

Add in:

About 15 feet each of about 8 different color wires to go between the doors for PM and PW. You won't be able to match the goofy factory colors on the wires you're adding, so make yourself a chart so you know which factory door harness wire color gets spliced into which new color to go under the dash and back into the same circuit on the opposite door.

Heat shrink tubing, and use the nice 3M stuff with the internal adhesive. Rain water gets inside the doors, so everything inside need to be well sealed.

Spriral wrap or corrugated wire loom to keep all the above wires together along the under dash harness between the doors.

A bunch of Tie-Wraps, Zip-Ties, or whatever you want to call them.

And for any other folks following along:

Don't even think about starting this project without the factory wiring diagram as shown above.

In that factory book there is also a tutorial on splicing wires using solder and heat shrink tubing. Follow it and don't even think about using crimp butt slices, EZ-taps, or some other makeshift method. The door harnesses and door jam pass-thru get "worked" every time the doors are opened and slammed shut so it has to be bulletproof.

 

Yes, I did forget to mention the wiring and etc. Also, I have the zip ties covered. The old man used to work for Panduit, one of the largest manufacturers of those things, so I have access to 1000's of what ever size I need.

 

So, I have been trying to do some preparation to make the actual install a little less painful.

Came up with a few questions.

I did not have a chance to pull my fuse panel out, but I am curious, will there be open slots to add fuses? Or will I need to do an 'Add-a-Fuse' or something like that?

For the power mirrors, will I need to custom wire the relay, or should that be built into the factory wire harness?