I did some searching but didn't see any info on this particular issue.


This weekend I changed the plugs in my 2005 F150 SuperCrew 5.4 3v 2WD with 74,000 miles on it. Although I followed the rules about cracking and lubricating the plugs 7 of 8 still broke. Thankfully I had purchased the Lisle 65600 tool and they all came out pretty easy. When installing the plugs I put anti-seize on the ground electrode shield but I also put it on the threads and torqued them to 25 ft. lbs. I didn't see the part about not putting the anti-seize on the threads until the job was completely done. Has anyone had a problem when they put anti-seize on the threads?

The truck runs great (no more mis-fire from cylinder #8), except that I can smell raw gas fumes in the cab of the truck when using the AC or heat. There is not a fuel leak of any sort and I have no DTC's or ck. eng. light issues. I'm just wondering if anyone else has run into this issue after changing plugs?

Thanks for all the input -

John

 

I did the same on mine with autolite plugs. I haven't had any problems. They should just come out easier the next time.

 

These plugs have a coating and should not use anti-seize on the threads. as it will interfere with the torqueing.

 

Since you have an 05 5.4 I'd be concerned with the fuel injectors. They give no warning when they go.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ti...call_07M08.pdf

 

Yes, that was what I was thinking.

 

The fumes are coming from the plugs not being seated completely. I had this same problem and chased all sorts of potential sources for slight fuel leaks, like injector o-rings or emission lines/valves.

Tighten the plugs a bit more and the problem should go away. It worked on my 07.

 

Wow. I never heard of that happening. I torqued my plugs beyond what was called for, but still not as tight as they were coming out.

 

Help!! I am having the same issue...2006 Lariat Super Crew 5.4, 73,000kms. Just had my plugs done and ever since I got it back it smells like raw fuel when I sit idling. As soon as I drive the smell is gone, when I stop it's back. Had the shop look at it again, they changed some injector orings and it still reeks.

He put nickel anti seize on, and I asked him to re check the torque and says they are all at spec.

I am losing my mind over this, it's driving me nuts!

What was the outcome for you here? Did u fix it? Should I go back and ask him to tighten the plugs up more?

Any help would be appreciated in a huge way.

(there are no visible leaks of any sort, you could eat off the engine, it's spotless)

 

I feel your pain. I too was going crazy trying to figure out what the heck happened.

Tighten the plugs a bit more and the problem will go away.

What you're smelling is gasoline vapors, there is no physical leak. The vapors are escaping from one or more cylinders around the plugs. There's a little bit of damage to the seat caused by some grit that wasn't cleaned up. Tightening the plugs should fix you right up. It did with my truck.

FWIW, when I had this problem and determined there was no physical leak or a problem with the evap system. I removed my COP's, disconnected the electrical connector on the injectors and sprayed some carb cleaner, the same stuff used to soak the plugs (per the TSB) and while looking into each plug well, had my wife crank the engine. I watched each well for bubbling and found a couple plugs that were leaking. I snugged the leakers up and the problem was gone. (if you do this, be sure to blow out the carb cleaner before buttoning things up.

 

i would say no to using extra torque since you already exceeded torque limits you might as well remove the plugs and remove anti-seize and torque to specs and if you still have fuel smell i would look at the injectors imo

 

This is the most promising guidance I have received on this so far, thanks! Sounds like you went through the same frustrating process that I am going through, and I don't want to keep dropping money at the shop while they chase other possibilities (like the injector o-rings...).

I'll give this a try. Is getting to the plugs difficult? I had the shop change them when all of this started, but if I can avoid paying for another hour's labour and wasting a day doing the shop thing, I'd like to! Any tips or gotcha's? (doesn't appear to be a lot of room in there with the power steering fluid res as an example)

 

don't put anti-seize on threads next time. makes you torque things incorrectly. you might not be screwed this time but make sure to correct that in the future.

 

If it were me, I would be talking with the shop about them correcting the problem. They created it, they need to address it, on their nickel.

You're going to need a special socket for the plugs, unless you had the shop install Champions. That socket is OTC-6900. The power steering reservior is the least of your access challenges. You're going to need to remove the PCM and it's mounting bracket to access the last 2 cylinders on the passenger side. It's not a fun job by any means. And you need to be careful not to apply a huge amount of additional torque. A little over torquing wont hurt anything, but a lot will.

 

THANK YOU.

I went back to my shop and explained what I learned here, and they were great about it. They were frustrated like I was as we couldn't figure out what was causing this.

They were happy to have me in the shop first thing this morning and checked all the plugs at no cost for me. Sure enough, there was one single plug that needed to be torqued up, and voila, the issue was INSTANTLY gone.

I drove the truck home and back into work with the heat on the whole time and regardless of being stopped or moving the smell is gone.

I am as relieved as it gets.

Thanks again everyone, what a huge amount of help this forum is!

Cheers,
Corey

 

Fantastic. Glad it worked out!!!