Well Glen (Smokin_Lariat) drove out to pay me a visit this weekend and we got started Sunday morning. Total install time should be less then 3 hours, but we did some extra stuff that you may not need to do. Again, it was nice meeting you, and a pleasure working for you. Glad you can get the pedals where you want them, and can be safer on the road


This was a direct install, no cutting or wire splicing involved, just a matter of unbolting, plugging in two connectors, and reinstalling with the new parts.

I can't guarantee that XL's or even XLT's are going to be direct bolt in install, since you may not be prewired for them like the Lariats/FX4s are


I took out the gas pedal first, its very straight forward, and will give you more room to work on the brake pedal.

The gas pedal is held in by 3 10mm bolts.


There is an electrical connector for the electronic throttle position sensor above the bolts that i didnt get a picture of in the truck. That will need to be unplugged for the gas pedal assembly to come out.



And now for the brake pedal, the black switch one of the brake switches (that controls the lights) and the blue and white one above it is what tells the vehicle to unlock the shifter.


The blue one turns about 45* counter clock wise then pulls straight out. Don't unplug the switch, just turn and remove it. The switch calibrates while being installed and uninstalled, so it needs to be plugged in to be setup correctly.

Next is the yellow cover over the black brake switch


You can see here you need to pinch the side closer to you, and then open it like a clam. (you may unplug the black connector on the lower brake switch)

once the cover is removed you will find a yellow cotter pin


remove the cotter pin, and slide the switch and brake booster arm off of the pedal arm.

The brake pedal is held in by a total of 4 13mm nuts and 2 13mm bolts

the 4 13mm nuts are located around the brake booster arm


Just pull back the carpet padding to access the nuts on the studs


As you can see you'd need a 13mm deep socket to make life much easier to get the four nuts off of the studs.

The other two brake pedal bolts are located where the top of the brake arm meets the base of the pedal assembly


When you remove the pedal its a bitch, you have to turn it about 120* counter clock wise after getting it off the brake booster studs, and then you will have to lower the top out first. This will make more sense once you actually do it.

Once both pedals are out you can wiggle a medium sized flat head screwdriver up behind the dash and push the blank switch cover out of the dash. I was able to release the top lock, and then push from the center of the plug, and pop it out.

Here you can see the clips that need to be released top and bottom




Here's the comparison pictures of the different pedals

Old

New



Gas Pedals

Brake Pedals

 

Here's the extras we did.

Since he was upgrading to harley pedals we swapped the parking brake pedal cover for the matching harley pedal cover.
I also recommend that since the gas pedal sensor was calibrated for his vehicle, and it was a known good part that we should reuse this.

So we had to unbolt the sensor and pedal arm from the base (3 13mm)

From there we had to swap the pedal itself from the arms. To do this i knocked out the pins from the back (in there pretty good)

I used my 13mm deep on the side with the head to give a solid base to hit on, and not destroy the pedal. I used a 3/8" extension and later a philips screwdriver as make shift punches

these are the pins almost all the way out


pedals side by side, and pins to the right


My tool setup


From here it was just carefully putting the pins back in, and i used the same tool rig, just reversed the tools and used the 3/8 extension to drive them in instead of out. I used a squirt of WD40 to help get them going in smoothly


Reverse the removal procedure and you are ready to roll.

Tips worth mentioning

• Have a friend hold the brake booster and keep it from falling all the way out of the dash when you are installing the new brake pedal. You may need to slide it out about 3/4" to get the pedal in.
  
• Also while you have a friend standing by wanting to help, have them watch the brake lights. The black switch needs to be perfectly centered (adjust up and down on the switch) on the brake arm to get it to shut the brake lights off when the pedal is not depressed.
  
• The harness that needs to plug into the switch is right behind where the blank plug is, and is just clipped in place.
  
• The harness that needs to plug into the brake pedal is held up above the top of the braket (small grey connector 2 wires) I would highly recommend plugging in the motor harness before installing the brake pedal.
  
• The cable that comes off of the motor that goes to the gas pedal just needs to be pushed into the gear drive on the gas pedal, make sure it goes all the way in and clicks and locks

All finished

 

Thats sweet dude, thank you. Just a quick question, what did you do with the button to ajust the pedals?

 

it just plugs into the harness, and after you remove the blank plug the switch fits right in the dash (to the left of the steering wheel)

 

Nice write-up, Pat. Going to cc this one down to How-To's as well. Thanks for your continued contributions!!

-RP-

 

Not a problem, just glad i can help local members (in person) and other members (over the forums)

and thanks

 

Good job Patman, people like yourself are the reason the F150 community is the best anywhere.

 

For anyone that is interested, I just checked my truck. I have the connector where the switch would go and also the connector that would plug into the pedal assembly. My truck is an 06 XLT. Maybe they were all wired for this upgrade incase someone needed the adjustment for them to drive safely? Just a thought...

 

Great write up! I'm going to have to find me some of those pedals.

 

Lee and others...

As I just posted up in this thread in the How To forum, I found the pedals on ebay motors but they were being sold by Greenleaf Auto Recyclers (www.greenleafauto.com). If you're looking I'd check with them. I was able to purchase the gas, brake and e-brake assemblies for $150 (+ $39 shipping) in like new condition (from a 07 Harley F150). I found the switch in a separate ebay sale from a 07 F350 for $10 (+10 shipping).

I had priced new parts from Y2K Ford Parts for about $280 (+??? shipping). FYI you don't need the e-brake assembly for this mod, it just happened to be included in the sale from Greenleaf - of course since I was changing from stock to Harley pedals it was nice to have it so we could change out the foot pad cover on the ebrake and have all 3 pedals match.

Kudos again to Pat for his support of my desire to make this mod happen and of course his expert installation and kind hospitality. Agree with Tbird - it's guys like Patman who make this forum the best.

 

Thanks for the link!

 

PATMAN
Hi would u be willing to do mine for me if I pay you I would def appreciate it....ppl have told me that it can't be done and obviously you have done it. I'm a female and only 5 foot so adjustable pedals would def come in handy hope to hear from you.
Thanks

 

Well today I learned that the Harley Davidson pedals are not just a simple brake pedal sleeve and a gas pedal cover. Nice job Patrick.