I use pennzoil platinum. I like it so far. I change my oil and filter every 3 months or 3,000 miles.

 

You could go to 4K easily with a Synthetic, at 3K my Synthetic still looks clean!.............

 

Mine is still clean, but it's a cheap and simple way to make absolutely sure that I run fresh oil

 

Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20 ho

 

If someone had been using convential oil then decides to switch to syn. does it have to be conditioned after the switch? Or does it just have to be drained and then put in the new?

 

Just drain and refill just like you were using conventional again. All of the stuff is compatible. Besides, almost all "synthetic oil" is actually Grade III conventional oil.

 

Im going to try that Royal Purple that AZ sells. They say it is the best. AZ just told me since I have been using convetional for so long that I should use some conditioner that they sell which is about $40 but I never hear of it. Also would you know where the drain plug is, I have a 04 STX(old body)???

 

The engine oil pan drain plug is probably the only drain plug under the engine anywhere. I would recommend you use a 6 point socket to remove and replace the plug. You can round off the hex head with a regular wrench. Don't tighten it too much. Many of the quick change oil places have beginners doing oil changes and they strip the threads in the oil pan. Then, you have to get an oversize self threading plug from an auto parts store. The oil filter is difficult to get to on these engines and you may have difficulty getting it off, especially if the last person put it on too tight. I always tighten my filters using only my hand and tightening them as much as I can by hand.

As far as RP, I've read lots of negative remarks about it. Don't have any personal knowledge about it.

Some years ago, an employee's husband changed the oil in their daughter's car just before a trip to FL. It was a small front drive car. He was unfamiliar with how to do it and drained the transmission and put the oil in the engine. So, the engine had twice as much oil as it was supposed to have and the manual transmission had none. She didn't get very far down the interstate before the transmission expired.

But, your truck does not have a transmission drain plug unless a previous owner installed one. So, you should be okay.

 

I wouldn't bother with the conditioner, what's it going to condition? The sludge from the dino oil?

Technically, the only thing you have to worry about is the number of miles you've run before switching to syn. Generally, your engine has "sealed" itself up with the dino buildup. Sometimes people will report slight gasket leaks after switching due to the synthetic removing the buildup that was sealing the gaskets. This is because synthetics have more detergents and other cleaning agents that will break-up any buildup. The other risk is that a large piece of sludge will break off and block an oil passage preventing proper lubrication to certain parts of the engine.

That being said, I'm yet to read a post with anyone complaining of a serious issue after switching to synthetic...

 

I use Motorcraft synthetic blend, and it's cheaper than other brands and it runs well

 

For approx. $17.64 more you can go to Advance Auto & get yourself some MotorCraft Full Syn 5W-20, & have even better protection,a much cleaner engine, & go further on an oil change. It's entirely worth it in my view!.........

 

I forgot the name of the conditioner. I will go back to the store today.

The last time I had an oil change was 92,??? miles and now I'm at 97,323. This is the first time I will be doing it myself but the shop has been using Pennzoil 5-20. I just found out that if your over 85,000 10-30 should be used; is this correct?

About what you said about the gaskets, would I need to replace them? How long will it take for it to stop leaking? Will this cause any problems?

 

I would never put 10W-30 viscosity oil in a Modern FORD 3 valve Modular OHC V8 ! That is a crock!..............

 

You need to stick with the 5w-20 and motorcraft oil filters regardless of what any shop or autozone guy says. As far as the gaskets, if you do spring a leak it depends which one as far as difficulty. Oil pan, no biggy. Valve covers, a little more of a nuisance. Head or intake manifold...forget about it. At that mileage I wouldn't worry about it. I'd be more concerned with clogging the oil filter or oil pickup screen. If you do switch stick to a 3000 mile change interval for the first few changes as I'm sure your filter will get real dirty real quick.

 

or just switch filters and top off with new oil until you "pour the old oil outta the filter" and it looks better