I have done quiet a bit of research, and I think I'm going to purchase some 130w 6" lights to mount behind the grille. I looked around and it seemed that most were running 6". Anyways I have figured out how I'm going to fab the bracket for it and everything, but my question is more on the wiring perspective.
How exactly did you wire these up? Just to a switch or what?

The problem I face is I live in a more rural area, which is sort of why I want the lights. With all the long back country roads it would be nice to have the extra lighting, but the problem is around here the roads have a lot of hills, and you get a lot of the blind cars that pop over a hill at the last minute and it causes you to have to switch off the brights very quickly. I can see it being a problem if I have the lights hooked to a switch because I won't be able to dim the brights and the lights at the same time or quick enough. So anyways, I wasn't sure if anyone else ran into this problem and took it into consideration when wiring the lights, or if you all just hooked them up to switches you mounted on the dash somewhere.

 

mine came with a switch (2 - 6" 55w lights) but i ended up wiring them to the parking lights instead. That way I can still be able to turn them off with my switch, but they would also be on with the high's and low's..

 

Yeah, so in theory I should be able to hook them up to the brights, but put a switch in my truck to turn them on and off without the brights.

 

I have a pair of 130 watt Hella 550s behind my grill with a cutom fabricated bracket for pretty much the same reasons you're looking to install a set. I have them wired so that they come on automatically with the high beams. No need to go fumbling with a separate switch when somebody comes over a hill heading at me as I'm blinding them.

If you want to hook yours up the same way, I'm going to assume your kit came with a relay - because you'll need it due to the high current draw. In the wiring diagram, there should be two hot (+) leads going to the relay. One will be a low current trigger that usually goes to a switch. The other will be a high current draw that actually powers the lights. Simply hook the low current draw lead to the hot (+) side of your high beams and wire everything else as noted in the instructions. Make sure you have good, solid grounds too. If you want, you can add a switch to that lead giving you the option of running the driving lights with the high beams or not. Please note that with this option, the only way your driving lights will come on is with your high beams though. That works just fine for me though.

 

Find a old 1970's ish car that had the dimmer switch on the floor and wire that in.

 

mine are wired through a switch to the brights. I can turn them off and of when I want but they will only come on with the brights so I don't have to worry about blinding people.

 

Thanks for describing me out. The one thing I'm a little unsure of is about hooking the high beams to the switch. If i understood right I run the low current draw from the relay to the switch and then from the switch to the + high beams? Is that right? I have a regular 2 pole rocker switch. Will that work or will I need something different? Just trying to figure this out because I'm about to go tackle this in a little bit.

 

I have mine on a seperate switch buy my high beams are never used, lol. I have HID heads, fogs, and kc daylighter. With all that light on at once there isnt much I cant see. I had them mounted behind my grill but was very unhappy with light output, so I moved them to my bull bar.

 

Best way to do it is to wire the trigger to the relay up to the high beam hot wire. This way you'll be able to shut them off quickly using the high beam switch.

Most of the KC kits come with a bosch type relay. Follow the wiring directions in this diagram, then hook up the wiring that the arrow is point to, to the high beams. Just make sure you put a fuse inline to the battery!




Good luck Let me know if you need any help

 

Yeah I thought about just putting it on a switch and leaving it where i could run them with either dims or brights. But as stated above i'm just worried i would pass someone and not be able to reach the switch in time. I live in a very small down so about every road around are small country roads, I just know sometime I would end up with a car shoved up the front of my truck.

Thanks for the wiring diagram. I have one similar I drew up. So, would i just put a switch between the relay and the highs. I want a switch so I can control whether they come on with the high beams or not. I wont want them on with them all of the time.

 

Wiring them to the high beams is going to be the safest way to go then. It's also a bit more legal then just running a separate switch

 

I'm sorry I think i may have worded that wrong. I want a switch to control whether the lights are running when the high beams are on. some times i will want the highs on alone without the lights, such as going down a two lane and the chance of meeting a car. But then when i turn the switch on and the highs are on the lights can run. That's what i mean. The switch controls whether the lights are running when the highs are on.

 

I have mine wired on a three way switch: On, Auto on/off w/ high beams, OFF

Simplest way to do the bracket, ive found:

 

Oh OK! That's easy. Just put a switch in line with the wire coming off post #85.

So wire it up like it said, then off of #85 run the wire to the first post on the switch in the cab, then off the second post on the switch run a wire to the high beams.

 

Thanks a lot NoLonger! I'm headed to get the relay and fuse right now, and should have it wired up in a little.