seafoam
#31
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Georgia on my mind...
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Quintin,
comments like these do nothing more than discourage the discussion on this topic. This is an important topic as broken plugs can be costly to fix and could possibly ruin the engine.
If this problem is due to carbon buildup around the plug inside the cylinder, and Seafoam has proven to soften up carbon, and softening up the carbon inside the engine aids in the removal of the plug, then there are many on this forum who would like to know about it. I know I would.
comments like these do nothing more than discourage the discussion on this topic. This is an important topic as broken plugs can be costly to fix and could possibly ruin the engine.
If this problem is due to carbon buildup around the plug inside the cylinder, and Seafoam has proven to soften up carbon, and softening up the carbon inside the engine aids in the removal of the plug, then there are many on this forum who would like to know about it. I know I would.
Before anything, we need to know what exactly is Seafoam.
Seafoam MSDS
Now that you've read the MSDS, I ask, where do carbon deposits in an internal combustion engine come from? They're byproducts of combustion, from burning fuel and oil. And per the MSDS, Seafoam is about 40-60% pale oil. So, we're softening carbon deposits, some say we're even removing them, by burning oil. Wait, what?
It's got some naphtha in it too. Do you know what naphtha does in a hot combustion chamber? It burns, it burns very hot. Hot enough to burn valves, hot enough to be complete and total hell on valve stems and seals, potentially increasing oil consumption (read: increasing carbon build up).
Additionally, we're introducing liquid into a confined space via the brake booster hose. Get carried away with that stuff, and you'll have bigger problems on your hands than a few broken spark plugs.
But wait, all this oil/naphtha/alcohol has to go somewhere, there's no place left for it to go except out the exhaust valve, so let's shoot it past heated O2 sensors that don't take kindly to contaminates and through catalytic converters loaded with expensive precious metals that lose their efficiency when they're contaminated.
I say these engines, when properly maintained, run very, very clean on the basis of pulling them apart (2005 models mostly, fuel injector thing and all) and looking at the combustion chambers and piston tops with my own eyes. Emissions controls and fuel quality is the best its ever been, blowby control and engine sealing overall is outstanding on a modular engine.
So yeah, I call BS on Seafoam, on the basis of what's in it. Look at the ingredients, and explain to me how any of that stuff will help soften (some say remove) hard carbon deposits, increase power and fuel mileage, cure cancer, fix the national deficit, and any number of other miracle solutions and gains they claim.
If it makes you feel any better, I've tried removing these spark plugs after using professional grade cleaners by BG and Motorvac, they don't come out any easier.
#32
NO NO NO
First off, not to be a jerk, but the directions are on the can. DO NOT let the vaccumm line suck the Seafoam from the can. While unlikely, this could cause hydrolock. Do as the directions state: pour the Seafoam slowly into the line. I tape a small funnel to the line and do it that way.
Personaly, I use a half in the line and a half in the tank. Once it is in the engine, let it sit with the engine off for a little while and then crank it back up. You will probably get a check engine light that is fixed with a simple battery disconnect.
First off, not to be a jerk, but the directions are on the can. DO NOT let the vaccumm line suck the Seafoam from the can. While unlikely, this could cause hydrolock. Do as the directions state: pour the Seafoam slowly into the line. I tape a small funnel to the line and do it that way.
Personaly, I use a half in the line and a half in the tank. Once it is in the engine, let it sit with the engine off for a little while and then crank it back up. You will probably get a check engine light that is fixed with a simple battery disconnect.
[1] Pour half in tank
[2] Engine is running
[3] Take a vacuum line off the throttle body and pour (option attach a funnel) slowly the remaining can.
[4] Once the can is done, turn engine off and let sit for 10 minutes or so
[5] Start truck and go for a drive.
Is the above correct?
....adding another question, while pouring into the vacuum line can you expect the engine to bog down?
#34
Disregard all my questions...Seafoam has a video on their website explaining everything:
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motor-treatment/index.html
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motor-treatment/index.html
#35
Go to the head of the class Quintin! Now you know why I pretty much quit posting in these snake oil posts. Like P T Barnum said, "there's a sucker born every minute". These same people that buy this stuff and other additives apparently aren't smart enough to read the owners manual which specifically states no additives. But I guess their buddies know a lot more about engines than a Ford engineer.
And my pastor still doesn't understand when I tell him "look around you, God does have a sense of humor!"
And my pastor still doesn't understand when I tell him "look around you, God does have a sense of humor!"
#36
Okay.
Before anything, we need to know what exactly is Seafoam.
Seafoam MSDS
Now that you've read the MSDS, I ask, where do carbon deposits in an internal combustion engine come from? They're byproducts of combustion, from burning fuel and oil. And per the MSDS, Seafoam is about 40-60% pale oil. So, we're softening carbon deposits, some say we're even removing them, by burning oil. Wait, what?
It's got some naphtha in it too. Do you know what naphtha does in a hot combustion chamber? It burns, it burns very hot. Hot enough to burn valves, hot enough to be complete and total hell on valve stems and seals, potentially increasing oil consumption (read: increasing carbon build up).
Additionally, we're introducing liquid into a confined space via the brake booster hose. Get carried away with that stuff, and you'll have bigger problems on your hands than a few broken spark plugs.
But wait, all this oil/naphtha/alcohol has to go somewhere, there's no place left for it to go except out the exhaust valve, so let's shoot it past heated O2 sensors that don't take kindly to contaminates and through catalytic converters loaded with expensive precious metals that lose their efficiency when they're contaminated.
I say these engines, when properly maintained, run very, very clean on the basis of pulling them apart (2005 models mostly, fuel injector thing and all) and looking at the combustion chambers and piston tops with my own eyes. Emissions controls and fuel quality is the best its ever been, blowby control and engine sealing overall is outstanding on a modular engine.
So yeah, I call BS on Seafoam, on the basis of what's in it. Look at the ingredients, and explain to me how any of that stuff will help soften (some say remove) hard carbon deposits, increase power and fuel mileage, cure cancer, fix the national deficit, and any number of other miracle solutions and gains they claim.
If it makes you feel any better, I've tried removing these spark plugs after using professional grade cleaners by BG and Motorvac, they don't come out any easier.
Before anything, we need to know what exactly is Seafoam.
Seafoam MSDS
Now that you've read the MSDS, I ask, where do carbon deposits in an internal combustion engine come from? They're byproducts of combustion, from burning fuel and oil. And per the MSDS, Seafoam is about 40-60% pale oil. So, we're softening carbon deposits, some say we're even removing them, by burning oil. Wait, what?
It's got some naphtha in it too. Do you know what naphtha does in a hot combustion chamber? It burns, it burns very hot. Hot enough to burn valves, hot enough to be complete and total hell on valve stems and seals, potentially increasing oil consumption (read: increasing carbon build up).
Additionally, we're introducing liquid into a confined space via the brake booster hose. Get carried away with that stuff, and you'll have bigger problems on your hands than a few broken spark plugs.
But wait, all this oil/naphtha/alcohol has to go somewhere, there's no place left for it to go except out the exhaust valve, so let's shoot it past heated O2 sensors that don't take kindly to contaminates and through catalytic converters loaded with expensive precious metals that lose their efficiency when they're contaminated.
I say these engines, when properly maintained, run very, very clean on the basis of pulling them apart (2005 models mostly, fuel injector thing and all) and looking at the combustion chambers and piston tops with my own eyes. Emissions controls and fuel quality is the best its ever been, blowby control and engine sealing overall is outstanding on a modular engine.
So yeah, I call BS on Seafoam, on the basis of what's in it. Look at the ingredients, and explain to me how any of that stuff will help soften (some say remove) hard carbon deposits, increase power and fuel mileage, cure cancer, fix the national deficit, and any number of other miracle solutions and gains they claim.
If it makes you feel any better, I've tried removing these spark plugs after using professional grade cleaners by BG and Motorvac, they don't come out any easier.
I don't use Seafoam and have not researched it for years, but as I recall it was common knowledge that it softened soft carbon deposits. It seems the naked eye could see the results if you soaked a carbon covered piston for a day. I've never done it myself.
If it works half the time to allow remove a plug with out breaking, that other wise would have, then we have something. Even if it does nothing, the cost is small. Can we get our hands on Motorvac? Can we use Motorvac without the machine?
#37
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Georgia on my mind...
Posts: 6,509
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Well, I have my own methods for removing plugs. It makes folks cringe when they see it, but it works.
Loosen the plugs about a quarter turn or so, and spray carb cleaner down into the wells just as Ford says. I do this lukewarm, not at operating temp, but not stone cold either. Let it sit for five to ten minutes, then run the plugs out with a 3/8" impact wrench. Get on them and don't stop until they come out.
My unscientific swag is that the hammering action from the impact gun helps break/loosen the carbon up between the plug and the cylinder head. Use a very good socket for this, and get straight on top of the plug with as short an extension as possible, and no swivel joints (it's hard, but possible). I normally break an insulator or two, but meh, I'm replacing the plugs so I don't really care what happens to the old ones.
Haven't had one break since removing them like that.
Loosen the plugs about a quarter turn or so, and spray carb cleaner down into the wells just as Ford says. I do this lukewarm, not at operating temp, but not stone cold either. Let it sit for five to ten minutes, then run the plugs out with a 3/8" impact wrench. Get on them and don't stop until they come out.
My unscientific swag is that the hammering action from the impact gun helps break/loosen the carbon up between the plug and the cylinder head. Use a very good socket for this, and get straight on top of the plug with as short an extension as possible, and no swivel joints (it's hard, but possible). I normally break an insulator or two, but meh, I'm replacing the plugs so I don't really care what happens to the old ones.
Haven't had one break since removing them like that.
#38
The manual's advise of 'no additives' is a general statement lacking in detail. As soon as you fill up with Chevron you have already disregarded that statement in the manual because there is techron in the gas.
#40
#41
First off buddy, watch your step on who you refer to as not being smart enough and secondly personally speaking, I'm always looking at reading reviews and suggestions from other forum members which is exactly what this thread would be used for. However if people like yourself come bursting in and downgrading others opinions and views then the point of this thread will be overlooked.
#42
do these people think that the manual is EVER going to say "yes, it is ok to introduce any additives to your motor"? c'mon, common sense will show a typical attempt at an ***-covering.
I would like to see some sort of proof indicating that seafoam caused any motor damage. anyone?? Quintin?
Yea... until you show me experimental proof, shut up and stop harassing people for their opinions. Your're talking out of your *** as much as everyone else with their opinions are. What makes your statement anymore reputable?
#43
Hey just a question but how come Ford themselves and a few of their mechanics will suggest the fuel cleaner procedure...You know when they hang the bottle upside down and run the truck for awhile while it smokes.
See I'm no mechanic BUT I use to work for Dejana Truck and we build bodies for Ford dealerships and my job was to deliver these new trucks to all the Ford dealerships in the northeast. I've spent a lot of time in the shops and have a great relationship with 3 of the biggest dealerships in the Philadelphia/New Jersey area and I've seen this done many time. From my lack of experience and correct me if I'm wrong but isn't that "introducing" additives?
See I'm no mechanic BUT I use to work for Dejana Truck and we build bodies for Ford dealerships and my job was to deliver these new trucks to all the Ford dealerships in the northeast. I've spent a lot of time in the shops and have a great relationship with 3 of the biggest dealerships in the Philadelphia/New Jersey area and I've seen this done many time. From my lack of experience and correct me if I'm wrong but isn't that "introducing" additives?
#44