Sorry for the confusion.

I had to put it in reverse (or drive) to get it out of 4Lo to 4hi. I never shift into 4wd Hi or Lo while moving. I never use the on the fly.

Basically couldn't get it out of 4LO without holding my foot on the brake and putting the truck into drive or reverse, then it would shift out. The low is sticking until I shift it into gear.

Thanks,
Ryan

 

Yeah, LO should always be shifted in and out while in N. In your case it sounds like one of the things in my first guess on the previous page.

 

Great thread!

I just read through all 9 pages now and didn't see anything like the problem I'm noticing.
I just picked up a 2004 F150 4.6 XLT and when I put it into 4wd, sometimes I will hear a light hissing sound. If I put it back into 2wd and then back into 4wd, it will usually go away.
Normally I would think it's a vacuum leak but it's strange that it only happens sometimes.
This is the manual 4wd system too.

 

I had the same issue last winter, and decided to fix it, as my warranty was nearing the end. I had some loud scraping, light grinding, and popping and clunking as I shifted to 4wd. No noise ever when in 2wd, and 4wd system worked fine after engaged, I just had noise when it engaged. No, mine didn't do it when I first got it, either.

After two seperate solenoid replacements and a vaccumm system evac. by the dealer, with no change, on the last day of my warranty, I took it back to the dealer, and they told me the noise was normal. I politely explained that I had some knowledge of the system, and that it was NOT normal, and that it didn't make the noise when it was newer. I also mentioned that I could test any one of the new trucks on the lot, and they wouldn't make the noise. The service mananger was good, and had a tech ride with me, and I reproduced the sound for him. The manager assured that they would dig deeper, and if they found anything wrong with it, it would be fixed.

By the end of the day, they called me to come pick it up. Honestly, I was expecting to get it back, still not fixed, and was prepared to just replace the IWE's myself, having read this thread previously. But, to my surprise, the manager explained that they replaced both IWE's! I tested it on the way home, and success! Smooth as butter when engaging!

I guess one of my IWE's became damaged for one reason or another, probably due to moisture, or by engaging while one of the front wheels wasn't turning at the same rate as the rear axle. The damage cause a lot of noise while engaging. Regardless, new IWE's solved it, and has worked fine for about a year now! I love my dealer, and that is the reason we have bought our last 5 or so vehicles from them!

 

From what I am understanding about the system, I would suggest that using 4wd regularly (at least once a month) would probably prevent a lot of these problems. That should help keep the actuators moving freely, keep the moisture out, preventing them from sticking.

I have experienced the grinding from the IWE's in the past but have since adopted the concept of running the 4wd more regularly. The jury is still out as to whether or not this will change anything, but I'm considering it preventative maintance. As of a trip to the woods two weeks ago, I still have 4wd.

 

Actually, due to the way the system is designed, your hubs lock every single time you shut the truck off. They also unlock every time you start the truck up. This is because the system uses vacuum to unlock the hubs and you only have vacuum when your truck is running. So technically, putting the truck into 4 wheel drive periodically doesn't do a whole lot more to exercise your hubs. What it does do however is exercise your ESOF motor - which is pretty important.

 

Valid point. I was thinking more along the lines of the heat generated in the system while in 4wd. With regular use it should help keep the grease less viscous and moisture out.

 

Good points from both of you guys. I would agree with stroked about starting and shutting off the engine achieving the same thing and blade with actually moving the parts while driving, both ideas couldn't hurt to make habits.

 

I got a PM from a member that found the thread and asked a great question I thought I would post in the main thread in case others have the same question or may like to know the info.

First off, I'm glad that the write up has helped so many. I was determined to put something out there for others to use because I couldn't find the info I wanted/needed. I had no idea it would have the response that it has gotten.

As far as re-greasing the actuator gear and hub gear externally I don't see it being a problem and could help make the shifts a little smoother. But greasing the internal part that seems to be the failure point I think would be nearly impossible and since I have yet to open one of these things up, I'm not sure but it might make things worse. The grease on the external parts tends to really get gummed up with metal shavings and dirt etc, so cleaning the old out and re-packing if you will, should be fine.

As far as what type, I would prob. use a high quality silicone bearing grease or graphite grease. The silicone based would be better suited to being exposed to water and such and the new actuators seem to be coated with something similar.

Good luck and if you don't mind, I will post this on the IWE thread for others who may have the same question.

TN

 

thank to all for the time to post thier experiences with these things and the links / info. description & operation, repair, and even the pics are way better than what Mitchell Ondemand has. sad considering the shop i work at actually pays for it. lol

 

This is going to be a personal opinion, but if my truck had enough miles on it to require replacing both the upper and lower ball joints - and I already had everything out - I'd go ahead and replace both IWEs. Since they don't have the best reputation for longevity anyway, why not save some time and trouble. Besides, with my luck, they'd go south as soon as I buttoned everything back up!

 

Nothing like first hand knowledge...

 

I don't know. If they aren't acting up, I would probably leave well enough alone. They are easy to change and can be done in a few hours if need be. My luck I'd change them for peace of mind only to have one of the new ones go out. Keeping two on the garage shelf was gonna be my plan had I kept the truck.

 

Im having issues with my 4wd NOT locking in... I had replaced the solenoid on the firewall, but still no luck. I have NO GRINDING, NO WHINING (except from me) and NOT NOISES. I engage 4wd from switch, hear a CLUNK in the transfer case, but no pull from the front.... HELP!!!!

 

Firemedic, you're problem is the exact same as what I'm experiencing right now. I actually have my truck up on jackstands as we speak, looking through these threads on a test method. If I put the selector in 4Hi or 4Lo, I can put the truck in drive and let it run idling in gear, everything turns in the front (driveshaft and axle shafts)but the front wheels don't turn at all, and you can freespin them. This sounds to me like the IWE's are stuck in the disengaged position. Also, if I turn the truck off, I'd assume since there's no vacuum, that if you spun the front wheels by hand, the axle shaft would turn as well, but this doesn't happen either, further strengthening my belief that the IWE's are stuck in disengaged position. I've only owned my truck for 3 months, and tested the 4 wheel drive system when I bought it (or so I thought) by running it in 4 Hi and 4 Lo and hearing the clunking and engagement of the transfer case, I thought it to be fine. Well, first big snow of the season and I can't get up my driveway because 4 wd doesn't work...
TNF150, sorry to misdirect your thread, but can you give me some insight as to if I'm testing these things properly, and also, is there a way to perform any maintenance on the IWE's or do you just replace them if they are stuck? Thanks for the great write up on this, as if I do have to replace them, I feel completely comfortable doing so after going through your post.