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IWE's: Removal & Replacing

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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 05:39 PM
  #106  
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From: PRAIRIEVILLE, LA
what causes IWE not to engage

from what i have been reading most people are having problem with the IWE trying to engage when they don't want them too. i am having the opposite problem mines will not engage when i switch to 4hi or 4low and even if I disconnect the vacuum line from the solenoid. After doing a few test everything else seams to work I mean if I shift into 4wd my front shaft turn with the transfer case they just do not turn the front wheel. I am going to change them out in the up coming weeks but I had them both change already less than 2 years ago.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 10:15 PM
  #107  
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From: Central Indiana
Originally Posted by 4X4 4 LIFE
from what i have been reading most people are having problem with the IWE trying to engage when they don't want them too. i am having the opposite problem mines will not engage when i switch to 4hi or 4low and even if I disconnect the vacuum line from the solenoid. After doing a few test everything else seams to work I mean if I shift into 4wd my front shaft turn with the transfer case they just do not turn the front wheel. I am going to change them out in the up coming weeks but I had them both change already less than 2 years ago.
Hmmm. That's weird. Especially since you had them changed. Sounds like they both are stuck IN. I would say take one out and see if you can squeeze it in and out. You might get two new ones to have on hand in case ya need them.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 03:24 PM
  #108  
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I too want to give a big Thank You to TN-F150!
My right front started grinding last week so the first thing I did was to do a search here and find this post.

I dove into it this weekend and the instructions were right on. It took me a total of 1 hour. I have always done my own work but I have to admit that without this post I would have just taken it to the dealer.

Thanks Again TN-F150!
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 12:57 PM
  #109  
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From: Central Indiana
Originally Posted by Andy G
I too want to give a big Thank You to TN-F150!
My right front started grinding last week so the first thing I did was to do a search here and find this post.

I dove into it this weekend and the instructions were right on. It took me a total of 1 hour. I have always done my own work but I have to admit that without this post I would have just taken it to the dealer.

Thanks Again TN-F150!
Glad I could help. That's why I wanted to do a write-up.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 09:52 PM
  #110  
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From: Western NY
I just wanted to say thank you to TN-F150 !!!!

This job was very easy, it came apart just like you said and went together the same.
It did take me some time because I spent a lot of time clening and scraping rust/scale from the steering knuckle....

My right side actuator failed from a vacuum leak caused by rust/corrosion, also it would not move in and out because of the aluminum turning to powder.

THANKS AGAIN, GREAT JOB TN-F150....... !!!

Ulf
 
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 08:47 AM
  #111  
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From: Central Indiana
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Ulf
I just wanted to say thank you to TN-F150 !!!!

This job was very easy, it came apart just like you said and went together the same.
It did take me some time because I spent a lot of time clening and scraping rust/scale from the steering knuckle....

My right side actuator failed from a vacuum leak caused by rust/corrosion, also it would not move in and out because of the aluminum turning to powder.

THANKS AGAIN, GREAT JOB TN-F150....... !!!

Ulf
Great! No problem, I'm glad I could help.

I have one of my old ones left, I really need to cut it in half to show how this thing works. A weekend project maybe?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 02:15 PM
  #112  
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From: Central Indiana
Hey guys!

I'm about to change two more of these for my Father-in-law and need a source for them. My old source seems to be having phone/personnel issues and I can't get through to them.

Any thoughts on other sources besides Bob Utter Ford in Sherman, TX?

Anyone ever bought from oefordparts.com out of San Diego?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 05:01 PM
  #113  
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From: Trempealeau, WI
Try http://www.tascafordparts.com/ if you can't find them through their website call and ask they will get you all the parts that you need.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 02:01 AM
  #114  
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what a great read this thread is!!! now i have a ?
when i'm driving down my street say 10-20mph and switch my truck into 4x4 i can hear some grinding , probably like 5-10 seconds werth and then i hear and feel a pop (clunk) coming from the drivers side front.... do you think this would be an iwe actuator ? solenoid ? vacume problem ? please help, we got a foot of snow yesterday and i need my 4x4 working. thanks
 
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 02:41 PM
  #115  
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TN-F150!!! please help ^^^^
 
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 03:28 PM
  #116  
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From: Central Indiana
Originally Posted by c-huck
what a great read this thread is!!! now i have a ?
when i'm driving down my street say 10-20mph and switch my truck into 4x4 i can hear some grinding , probably like 5-10 seconds werth and then i hear and feel a pop (clunk) coming from the drivers side front.... do you think this would be an iwe actuator ? solenoid ? vacume problem ? please help, we got a foot of snow yesterday and i need my 4x4 working. thanks
The grinding you hear when an actuator is bad will be constant because it is half engaged. If it's a short grind then a clunk, it's engaging and *should* be locked in 4wd. If you aren't hearing the grinding the whole time you're driving, it sounds normal.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 04:14 PM
  #117  
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thats what is happening but i dont think it is normal because when my truck was new i couldnt hear or feel when i was engaging the 4 wheel drive...i'm confused.lol
 
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 05:31 PM
  #118  
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Instead of starting my own thread I figured I would put my 4x4 question here.

Shifting from 2wd to 4wd HI is fine. A slight engagement clunk, but nothing not normal. 4wd HI to 4wd LO is also fine. When I come out of 4wd LO to HI, it sometimes doesn't come out. I have to move the truck and shift through the gears to get it out of LO.

Now the other day it was stuck in 4 LO and I put it in reverse to move the truck a little to get it in HI. Well it was in LO but I had switch the **** to HI and put it in reverse (I forgot to switch the switch back to LO). It made a higher pitch tongue roll sound. I quick put it back in neutral to stop the sound and it came out of LO to HI

What was that sound, did I ruin anything? Is there anything that I should check?

BTW great thread, lots of good information!

Thanks,
Ryan
 
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 10:52 PM
  #119  
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From: Central Indiana
Originally Posted by c-huck
thats what is happening but i dont think it is normal because when my truck was new i couldnt hear or feel when i was engaging the 4 wheel drive...i'm confused.lol
What is what's happening? There was alot of info above and I don't know which "that's" you're talking about.

What you described sounds normal to me but if it's never done that on your truck before:

the way these actuators are designed the gears are closed inside a diaphragm (that is actuated by engine vacuum) and is greased and sealed when assembled. This grease over time and changing temps along with metal shavings from the gear will thicken up and with engaging/disengaging that they will stick slightly and cause the noise. In some instances of replacing these was caused by the vacuum solenoid getting water in the inlet and failing as well as freezing in cold climates causing the actuator to fail along with it because they can engage at any speed and are destroyed. Also As the temps get even colder, below 30 in my case, the grease becomes even harder for the gear to move and once left partly engaged, it will destroy the leading edge of the gear and cause problems engaging at all and will have to be replaced.

If you hear the noise only for a few seconds, this in my opinion is normal, although may indicate wear and the issue beginning with the grease and the internals of the actuator(s).

Think of it this way. With the system on the NEW 2004 on up, the front axles do turn at all when in 2WD so the grease in the actuator doesn't get up to any temp or move around inside at all unless it's locked in 4W. This stands to reason this grease could harden/thicken over time and cause some issues on it's own.

I wouldn't rush right out and replace anything till it rears it's ugly head. They are quick and simple to change and, providing you can do the work yourself, cheap. Let's just say, if I still had my F150 I would have two of these on a shelf in the garage to replace when needed. This is the weak link in this system but isn't catastrophic or too costly if caught in time.

Don't stress about it...

TN
 

Last edited by TN-F150; Nov 4, 2009 at 12:25 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 11:02 PM
  #120  
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From: Central Indiana
Originally Posted by hollamby
Instead of starting my own thread I figured I would put my 4x4 question here.

Shifting from 2wd to 4wd HI is fine. A slight engagement clunk, but nothing not normal. 4wd HI to 4wd LO is also fine. When I come out of 4wd LO to HI, it sometimes doesn't come out. I have to move the truck and shift through the gears to get it out of LO.

Now the other day it was stuck in 4 LO and I put it in reverse to move the truck a little to get it in HI. Well it was in LO but I had switch the **** to HI and put it in reverse (I forgot to switch the switch back to LO). It made a higher pitch tongue roll sound. I quick put it back in neutral to stop the sound and it came out of LO to HI

What was that sound, did I ruin anything? Is there anything that I should check?

BTW great thread, lots of good information!

Thanks,
Ryan
If I understand you correctly, you HAD to put in HI to shift into reverse? You shouldn't HAVE to do that. The transmission should shift to ANY gear whether in HI or LO. The sound sounds like you might have been between HI and LO while moving. Also not good...

Trouble getting out of LO sounds more like something in the transfer case, the shift motor or dash switch.
 
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