IWE's: Removal & Replacing
Member
Joined: Feb 2013
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It's not what I have on my truck.
I have a double molded hose, 1 hose with 2 tubes.
Can anyone here help?
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5
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still wont disengage
so i just replaced both the solenoid and both iwe's and when i lift the truck and spin the tires the axle shafts still spin. i was going over the ford procedure and realized that i did not compress the iwe's and cap the vacuum ports before installing. could this be the source of my issues?
also when i have the truck up, if i loosen the axle nut and push the shaft inward, when i spin the tires i do not get the drive shaft to spin which leads me to think i have a clearance issue, where some part is not moving far enough out of the way
please help...i gotta get this fixed asap
also when i have the truck up, if i loosen the axle nut and push the shaft inward, when i spin the tires i do not get the drive shaft to spin which leads me to think i have a clearance issue, where some part is not moving far enough out of the way
please help...i gotta get this fixed asap
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,248
Likes: 2
From: Rochester, NY, USA
The IWE's unlock with vacuum from the engine, so if you didn't have the engine running, you didn't have vacuum and that would explain the half shafts turning.
If you did have the engine running, did you verify that you have vacuum to both IWE's? Make sure you don't have a vacuum leak somewhere. That's pretty common.
If you did have the engine running, did you verify that you have vacuum to both IWE's? Make sure you don't have a vacuum leak somewhere. That's pretty common.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
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I went though all the lines, everyone tested good with a vac tester. If I test the iwe,s directly they both retract but I do not have any vacuum at the end of the lines. All I can think is that the new solenoid isn't working/not getting power.
I think I'm going to have to bypass the solenoid but als need to replace the check valves. They tested fine but maybe they are not functioning 100%
I think I'm going to have to bypass the solenoid but als need to replace the check valves. They tested fine but maybe they are not functioning 100%
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 477
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From: Alabama
so i just replaced both the solenoid and both iwe's and when i lift the truck and spin the tires the axle shafts still spin. i was going over the ford procedure and realized that i did not compress the iwe's and cap the vacuum ports before installing. could this be the source of my issues?
No. I did mine the same as you and it mattered not.
also when i have the truck up, if i loosen the axle nut and push the shaft inward, when i spin the tires i do not get the drive shaft to spin which leads me to think i have a clearance issue, where some part is not moving far enough out of the way
please help...i gotta get this fixed asap
No. I did mine the same as you and it mattered not.
also when i have the truck up, if i loosen the axle nut and push the shaft inward, when i spin the tires i do not get the drive shaft to spin which leads me to think i have a clearance issue, where some part is not moving far enough out of the way
please help...i gotta get this fixed asap
Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
so i just replaced both the solenoid and both iwe's and when i lift the truck and spin the tires the axle shafts still spin. i was going over the ford procedure and realized that i did not compress the iwe's and cap the vacuum ports before installing. could this be the source of my issues?
also when i have the truck up, if i loosen the axle nut and push the shaft inward, when i spin the tires i do not get the drive shaft to spin which leads me to think i have a clearance issue, where some part is not moving far enough out of the way
please help...i gotta get this fixed asap
also when i have the truck up, if i loosen the axle nut and push the shaft inward, when i spin the tires i do not get the drive shaft to spin which leads me to think i have a clearance issue, where some part is not moving far enough out of the way
please help...i gotta get this fixed asap
The truck is "in" 4 wheel drive with no vaccume(truck turned off), plug in the hoses then start the truck. The half shaft should not spin with the wheel hub if you fixed your problem.
Turn the truck back off and the half shaft should spin with the wheel hub.
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Joined: Feb 2013
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OK...Well I decided to just post the pics here with the write up since I didn't get a WHOLE lot of pics but there wasn't much to take pictures of. We all know how to remove the wheels and the rest is just a matter of removing the outer CV center nut, tie-rod nut and the upper ball-joint nut and separating both. After this there is 3 small bolts holding the actuator on the hub that get removed. Then we see inside the actuator and what I was not finding here or on the net to get my head around how this system worked. I kinda had an idea but seeing is priceless.
So once the shaft is out of the hub, the actuator comes right off it. The CV has a gear the contacts the actuator all the time and when switched to 4WD it is released into the hub where it grabs the hub gear.
You can see after I cleaned all the old grease and particles of actuator gear off that the hub gear DOES take some damage from this issue. The actuator gear is made much softer so it takes the majority of damage. I'm assuming the gear was already slightly beveled so the actuator gear can click right on but it did have some burrs along the gear teeth.
Next we see the difference new to old and what happens to it when you hear the noise. The new gear has a flat edge to the hub side of the gear and you can clearly see that on the old one this has been ground to about a 30 degree angle shorting the gear to the point of nothing more to engage, so with the open diff taking the path of least resistance that half shaft will spin when in 4WD and the other, even though it works, will not do anything. No 4WD...
Bottom line, if you hear the noise immediately try to switch to 4HI and try to make it engage, get it in to be fixed before the actuator or hub gear are damaged or do like I did and take 2 hours and about $130 ($43 for vacuum sol. (the cause of the malfunction) and $83 for act. (the victim) ) worth of parts and fix it yourself. That time includes rotating my tires, testing the 4WD system to see which actuator was bad and changing it. I could do one now by itself in probably less than 45 minutes. If anyone would like, I have the PDF's of the manual for several pages regarding the front diff. including the pages for the replacement procedure for the IWE's. Email me and I will send them.
**UPDATE**
I now have the files up for download here:
Driveline System Diagnosis
IWE Replacement Instructions
System Description and Operation
TSB 06-08-15
**UPDATE**
**NEW 6/8/2011**
Diagnosis and Testing
**NEW 6/8/2011**
**UPDATE**
So once the shaft is out of the hub, the actuator comes right off it. The CV has a gear the contacts the actuator all the time and when switched to 4WD it is released into the hub where it grabs the hub gear.
You can see after I cleaned all the old grease and particles of actuator gear off that the hub gear DOES take some damage from this issue. The actuator gear is made much softer so it takes the majority of damage. I'm assuming the gear was already slightly beveled so the actuator gear can click right on but it did have some burrs along the gear teeth.
Next we see the difference new to old and what happens to it when you hear the noise. The new gear has a flat edge to the hub side of the gear and you can clearly see that on the old one this has been ground to about a 30 degree angle shorting the gear to the point of nothing more to engage, so with the open diff taking the path of least resistance that half shaft will spin when in 4WD and the other, even though it works, will not do anything. No 4WD...
Bottom line, if you hear the noise immediately try to switch to 4HI and try to make it engage, get it in to be fixed before the actuator or hub gear are damaged or do like I did and take 2 hours and about $130 ($43 for vacuum sol. (the cause of the malfunction) and $83 for act. (the victim) ) worth of parts and fix it yourself. That time includes rotating my tires, testing the 4WD system to see which actuator was bad and changing it. I could do one now by itself in probably less than 45 minutes. If anyone would like, I have the PDF's of the manual for several pages regarding the front diff. including the pages for the replacement procedure for the IWE's. Email me and I will send them.
**UPDATE**
I now have the files up for download here:
Driveline System Diagnosis
IWE Replacement Instructions
System Description and Operation
TSB 06-08-15
**UPDATE**
**NEW 6/8/2011**
Diagnosis and Testing
**NEW 6/8/2011**
**UPDATE**
Also I know this may not mean much, but the instructions did not say how to replace the wheel hub assembly, just the soleoid.
Does anyone have the specs on torque for the wheel hub bolts?
I replaced mine and went to 115 ft/lbs when I reassembled.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
so i just replaced both the solenoid and both iwe's and when i lift the truck and spin the tires the axle shafts still spin. i was going over the ford procedure and realized that i did not compress the iwe's and cap the vacuum ports before installing. could this be the source of my issues?
also when i have the truck up, if i loosen the axle nut and push the shaft inward, when i spin the tires i do not get the drive shaft to spin which leads me to think i have a clearance issue, where some part is not moving far enough out of the way
please help...i gotta get this fixed asap
also when i have the truck up, if i loosen the axle nut and push the shaft inward, when i spin the tires i do not get the drive shaft to spin which leads me to think i have a clearance issue, where some part is not moving far enough out of the way
please help...i gotta get this fixed asap
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/83...then-some.html
Compressing the IWEs is not necessary when replacing them. I didn't do that and both of mine have been fine for 3+ years.
Greg
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 49
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Are you trouble shooting with this...? Read through this, and follow the trouble shooting steps.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/83...then-some.html
Compressing the IWEs is not necessary when replacing them. I didn't do that and both of mine have been fine for 3+ years.
Greg
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/83...then-some.html
Compressing the IWEs is not necessary when replacing them. I didn't do that and both of mine have been fine for 3+ years.
Greg
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 477
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From: Alabama
You can do just one. If the other side starts giving you trouble just replace it then.
The parts names;
Solenoid= Electrical vacuum enabler/disabler, on the passenger side firewall behind the battery.
IWE (integrated wheel end)= The part (actuator) that goes on the inside of the wheel hub and actually connects the front wheel in 4WD.
The parts names;
Solenoid= Electrical vacuum enabler/disabler, on the passenger side firewall behind the battery.
IWE (integrated wheel end)= The part (actuator) that goes on the inside of the wheel hub and actually connects the front wheel in 4WD.
Last edited by 60DRB; Apr 19, 2013 at 05:43 AM.
Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
You can do just one. If the other side starts giving you trouble just replace it then.
The parts names;
Solenoid= Electrical vacuum enabler/disabler, on the passenger side firewall behind the battery.
IWE (integrated wheel end)= The part (actuator) that goes on the inside of the wheel hub and actually connects the front wheel in 4WD.
The parts names;
Solenoid= Electrical vacuum enabler/disabler, on the passenger side firewall behind the battery.
IWE (integrated wheel end)= The part (actuator) that goes on the inside of the wheel hub and actually connects the front wheel in 4WD.
I now hear a faint sound from one of the other wheels, but I have not investigated it yet.
A few years ago I replaced my solenoid.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
"I replaced both the Actuator and the IWE on the drivers side of my truck."
I want to help you, but you are confusing me. The IWE is the actuator...
http://www.warn.com/powertrain/image...IWE%202006.PDF
What other part are you talking about?
I want to help you, but you are confusing me. The IWE is the actuator...
http://www.warn.com/powertrain/image...IWE%202006.PDF
What other part are you talking about?
Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
"I replaced both the Actuator and the IWE on the drivers side of my truck."
I want to help you, but you are confusing me. The IWE is the actuator...
http://www.warn.com/powertrain/image...IWE%202006.PDF
What other part are you talking about?
I want to help you, but you are confusing me. The IWE is the actuator...
http://www.warn.com/powertrain/image...IWE%202006.PDF
What other part are you talking about?
Sound better?
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
Yes! Thank you.
The Ford schematic I have says 20 (twenty) foot pounds for the wheel end nut. I've seen other posts quoting 290 pounds which is crazy. The IWE bolts are 9 (nine) foot pounds (or 108 inch pounds). Wheel lug nuts at 150 foot pounds. Honestly I have no idea what I torqued mine to when I did my repair. And I re-used the end nut and other suspension nuts, which is a no-no supposedly.
Way back in this thread is my episode with this problem. I replaced both IWE [one leaky and one broken internals] and the solenoid, and all better for 40K since.
The Ford schematic I have says 20 (twenty) foot pounds for the wheel end nut. I've seen other posts quoting 290 pounds which is crazy. The IWE bolts are 9 (nine) foot pounds (or 108 inch pounds). Wheel lug nuts at 150 foot pounds. Honestly I have no idea what I torqued mine to when I did my repair. And I re-used the end nut and other suspension nuts, which is a no-no supposedly.
Way back in this thread is my episode with this problem. I replaced both IWE [one leaky and one broken internals] and the solenoid, and all better for 40K since.
Last edited by 60DRB; Dec 20, 2014 at 07:37 AM.