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hillbilly deluxe build thread

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Old May 28, 2008 | 12:50 AM
  #106  
Josiah's Avatar
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now would there be any advantage to a 4link setup over this tri-link?
 
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Old May 28, 2008 | 08:05 AM
  #107  
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What you don’t see in that picture are the two lift bars coming from the rear of the truck to the axle, with the bags on them (so theres 2 bars and the triangulated link from the forward back and 2 links from the back forward). The 5 link setup is similar to the suicidedoors S-10 5 link setup. A 4 link with a panhard bar pushes the rearend to one side once it’s dropped. Unless the panhard bar is extremely long (which the frames in the rear of these trucks really won’t allow for easily) it’ll push the tires and rims into the fender. A watts link wouldn’t fit with that recovery system back there either, and a triangulated 4 link would really only work if I were to go with a fuel cell.
 
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Old May 28, 2008 | 05:10 PM
  #108  
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i was just looking at the pic of when ur truck is supposed to be done and i noticed that the rims are black while the front is black but the bed is white so what if u paint the back wheels white like the bed? i was just wondering what it would look like... maybe u can photoshop it and let us know?might look like crap but jus a suggestion... truck looks sick tho!
 
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Old May 28, 2008 | 05:37 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by Dribone
What you don’t see in that picture are the two lift bars coming from the rear of the truck to the axle, with the bags on them (so theres 2 bars and the triangulated link from the forward back and 2 links from the back forward). The 5 link setup is similar to the suicidedoors S-10 5 link setup.
A 4 link with a panhard bar pushes the rearend to one side once it’s dropped. Unless the panhard bar is extremely long (which the frames in the rear of these trucks really won’t allow for easily) it’ll push the tires and rims into the fender.
A watts link wouldn’t fit with that recovery system back there either, and a triangulated 4 link would really only work if I were to go with a fuel cell
Being test rats sure is hard Sure glad you and I have lots of free cell phone min.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 03:13 PM
  #110  
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So..looks good

Any updates???
 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 03:22 PM
  #111  
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not really... it's taking a little longer than i expected, but i think it'll be worth it.

the tailgate is done and primered, so is the roof and wiper cowl. all thats left is the roll pan, hood and front valance. I may end up spraying the bed liner tonight or tomorrow.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 03:23 PM
  #112  
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are you keeping the rpb grille logo in the center of it or taking it off??
 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 03:28 PM
  #113  
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i haven't really decided yet, i'll see how it looks both ways. i don't want too much flash on it
 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 03:31 PM
  #114  
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well if you dont put it on will you sell it to me??
 
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 02:22 AM
  #115  
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That tri link setup looks kinda shotty to me. Did you cut that crossmember so the driveshaft can sit lower in the frame? Is there any bracing on the crossmember or is it just chilling there? I dont build lowriders so I wouldnt know the stresses that they are put through. I just have some experience on desert trucks and that wouldnt fly on them at all.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 02:24 AM
  #116  
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Lookin good Justin!
its too bad you have soo many ideas for your truck!
I think this thread can go on for years!
Aloha
Graham
 
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 05:57 AM
  #117  
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From: Shelton CT
Originally Posted by 04procompLARIAT
That tri link setup looks kinda shotty to me. Did you cut that crossmember so the driveshaft can sit lower in the frame? Is there any bracing on the crossmember or is it just chilling there? I dont build lowriders so I wouldnt know the stresses that they are put through. I just have some experience on desert trucks and that wouldnt fly on them at all.
yeah, that crossmember was cut to allow for the driveshaft. i added a crossmember towarsd the cab, that you can't see in that picture to take up the stress (3" sch. 80 pipe, rather than the 1/8" wall tubing of the stock.

the triangulated link really isn't built for travel, more for just locating the rearend.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 12:08 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by Dribone
yeah, that crossmember was cut to allow for the driveshaft. i added a crossmember towarsd the cab, that you can't see in that picture to take up the stress (3" sch. 80 pipe, rather than the 1/8" wall tubing of the stock.

the triangulated link really isn't built for travel, more for just locating the rearend.
i would really brace that stock cross member you cut just with 2 pieces of like 1" tubing one angled towards the front and one to the rear, because on hard acceleration and stops i could see that bending some
 
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 12:27 PM
  #119  
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good point azmidget...Dri, i got another question..Do you have holes in the bed to bolt it to the frame?? i didnt see and in the pics?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 12:45 PM
  #120  
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ok well i just noticed something else....you have your rear bags connected to each other....why? your going to have alot of body roll


for those who dont know about bags, if the bags are connected to each other(with an air line) when you go around a turn the bag on the outside will get compressed (just like a spring setup) but it will alow the air to transfer to the other bag which in turn will let it roll alot easier. the gains of it are well its cheaper and easier to build, but i dont think that your setup can handle that much body roll

no offense just helping you out
 
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