Well, it's a bit chilly at the moment here, so I guess I'll just put one 16 in there for now. Getting closer to summer, I'll probably get some 14's, and put the 16's on my dad's F150.

Just waiting for the mounting kit.....

EDIT: ...and it's here.

And I've already run into problems....

The fan isn't turning on. I'm guessing the temperature probe isn't heating up? The fan works because I disconnected the two positives from the controller, and the fan ran. Is everything wired correctly?



The top wires pointing up (red and black) are going to the battery. The black wire going down and the bottom "prong" go to the fan. Maybe my temp probe isn't in right? The ignition and AC wires aren't connected to anything, and I put the two little black connectors on the group of 4 prongs. Also, I tried turning the pot 1 1/2 counter-clockwise, and it still wouldn't turn on.

 

Well you could temporarily hook the AC input line to the battery and see if the fan comes on 50%... Twelve volts to that line should cause it to turn the fan on. By the way if it is cold there, the fan probably wont come on... Mine came on only after the water reached 205 degrees...However I set mine for 202 degrees.

 

Oh, forgot to say that I had my laptop hooked up, and the coolant temp went to 210 without it turning on. But it is rather chilly here (50-60) so maybe the temp probe is getting chilled?

 

yay an on off switch will work for the a/c signal. i did two relays since i also wanted to be able to turn them on. i hasd to adjust the controller to get it to the right temp. i think i have them start at 200. im no drafter but here is a quick and crude drawing of how i did my relays.

 

i had to turn mine quite a way before mine finally came on. put the probe farther to the outlet of the radiater and that might help out. put 12volts to the a/c signal wire real quick and that will tell you if it is going to work.

 

Or maybe your thermostat is stuck closed.....

 

you have your temp probe at the bottom of the radiator on the exit, or cold side. Put it on the top passenger corner by the inlet from the engine.



Here is how i have mine w/o an AC input


I can draft you one with an AC input if you'd like, but you really dont need fans on after 40mph, so you would have to kick a switch to turn the fan off when AC is on and driving faster then 40

 

Hey Pat,

At delta controls it says to mount the probe there. Check it out under fans and then installation sheet. http://www.dccontrol.com/catalog2008.htm
Not sure which is correct but one way reads the temp of the coolant coming from the engine and the other reads the temp of the coolant going into the engine.
Which would be correct?? I guess it would be a matter of opinion.
If your not moving and the fans are off then the coolant would be the same temp going in as well as out of the rad as there would be no cooling.

 

delta says to mount it at the bottom nearest the outlet.this is due to the temperature being more stable at that point. near the inlet it will get hot then cold in more cycles.

 

I put mine up top, because if you have hot water at the bottom of your radiator then you are already too late to cool it down. Im not saying to couldnt calibrate it to be correct, but putting the probe up top seems a little more proactive, and a little less reactive

 

the dc controllers are calibrated for the lower mounting already. plus if i remember correctly if you set the jumpers for a 197 temp it actually sees 187 to begin turning the fans on at 10% and then working there way up.

 

I monitored the temp all over the radiator with my DC control, and the bottom was at 205 and the top was the same when the fan kicked in. Then the temp was regulated to exactly 202 with the fan providing optimum temp without any spikes in temp either up or down. works a long time, and wont rot your teeth.....

 

Today was a good day. I finished my FAL270 install and true dual setup.

If anyone wants to take a look or needs help with where to make your connections I snapped a few pics. They are posted in my gallery.

Everything seems to be working pretty good so far. I was a bit worried about having underdrives and EFans. My scangauge is still showing 12.2-14.4V. Water temp is stay right between 190-194. Right where it was with my mechanical fan.

The fan is a bit noisey. But probably not anymore than the mechanical one. But you can for sure tell when it comes on.

I have a DC Controller I decided not to go with. Flex-a-lite has updated its controller so the main power and ground wire are hard wired to the controller. If it fails I'll try my spare DC Controller.

 

The jumpers are used to reconfigure the controller

pins 13/14 -10% with ignition on, 100% with AC on
pins 15/16 -50% with ignition on, 100% with AC on
pins 14/16 - 100% with AC on

Remove the jumpers

 

Correct, it's a matter of control system theory. The trade off is loop gain, the shorter the delay from the point of cooling to the point of reading the temperature, the higher the loop gain can be set without the temperature oscillating from hot to cold. Mounting it downstream from the fan provides the minimum delay and allows the gain to be raised so that a seven degree full off to full on loop gain can be attained.