custom E-Fans
Originally Posted by ScottFF00
Here is an install write up using the DC Controller. Its also the same route I'm going when all my parts come in. But it is a bit pricey to say the least. I just don't want to cut any corners when it comes the to my cooling system.
http://timskelton.com/lightning/race...iator_fans.htm
http://timskelton.com/lightning/race...iator_fans.htm
The link has been bookmarked.
Seems I'll be order all the stuff tonight, unless someone has something better than the Zirgo fans for the same price. I'd guess they are better than the other $40 dollar ones.
I got a Lincoln Mark VIII fan out of a junk yard for $29 and used the DCcontrols controller kit. The fan is quiet at 1/2 speed, (when the AC comes on) The controller varies the speed according to the temperature. Mine kicks on at 205 degrees and maintains 203 temp. Look at my gallery under E fans. So far it has been working great, the mustang and corvette clubs like the fan as well as the controller. That 18 inch fan can move some serious air(4300cfm)
can you fit 2 18" fans in that space? I like the thought of having 2 fans for redundancy. that way you can at least limp home if 1 fails
btw, just thought I'd throw out there that people SHOULD NOT ZIP TIE THE FANS TO THE RADIATOR...eventually they'll pull through and ruin it
btw, just thought I'd throw out there that people SHOULD NOT ZIP TIE THE FANS TO THE RADIATOR...eventually they'll pull through and ruin it
Originally Posted by Tylus
can you fit 2 18" fans in that space? I like the thought of having 2 fans for redundancy. that way you can at least limp home if 1 fails
btw, just thought I'd throw out there that people SHOULD NOT ZIP TIE THE FANS TO THE RADIATOR...eventually they'll pull through and ruin it
btw, just thought I'd throw out there that people SHOULD NOT ZIP TIE THE FANS TO THE RADIATOR...eventually they'll pull through and ruin it
Originally Posted by ELVATO
Well, the stuff's been ordered.
Around 324 total, for one DC controler, two 16" fans, and 2 zip tie mount kits.
For now the zip ties will do. Later on, I'll try to find a bracket for them.
Around 324 total, for one DC controler, two 16" fans, and 2 zip tie mount kits.
For now the zip ties will do. Later on, I'll try to find a bracket for them.
Which DC controller did you go with? Did ya get the FK 35 or the FK 60? To run the two 16" fans.
Im thinking of getting this controller also now.
I went with the FK-50P one, since the amps used listed for the fans was 18-25. I'm hoping 25 amps is the most it uses.
The FK-50P uses the same control board as the FK-35, but with upgraded outputs and driver circuit, a multiturn, clutched, hermetically sealed potentiometer is utilized in lieu of jumpers for precision temperature setting.
Originally Posted by ELVATO
I went with the FK-50P one, since the amps used listed for the fans was 18-25. I'm hoping 25 amps is the most it uses.
Going by the FAQ on their site, I guess not.
What size controller do I need
Our controllers are rated byway of their nomenclature to indicate their current capability, as an example, an FK35 is capable of providing 35A of continuous current, these ratings are given in consideration of reliable operation under real world environmental conditions, so there is no need to under rate the application. In other words, a cooling fan that consumes 35A of continuous current requires the use of an FK35 controller, and although a 60 series controller may be substituted, there is no real benefit in doing so.
My fan has a peak current draw of 105 Amps, will this controller work with my fan?
An electric motor generates its own voltage when rotating under load that is typically about two thirds the input voltage, this generated voltage reduces the effective voltage applied to the motor windings by a factor of three and the reduction in voltage lowers the running current by the same amount. When a voltage is applied to a non-rotating motor, this voltage is not generated, and the effective voltage and current are not reduced, so when full input voltage is applied to a non-rotating motor, a non reduced or peak current occurs until the motor attains the working rotational velocity. The Delta controller ramps the voltage up slowly, avoiding locked-rotor current conditions. Moreover, although the Delta controller output devices have a peak current rating in excess of 400A, the controller is internally current limited to 50A short term in order to regulate peak currents and 35A long term in order to protect a shorted or dragging fan. In other words, the peak current specification of the fan doesn't need to be considered when choosing a controller.
Our controllers are rated byway of their nomenclature to indicate their current capability, as an example, an FK35 is capable of providing 35A of continuous current, these ratings are given in consideration of reliable operation under real world environmental conditions, so there is no need to under rate the application. In other words, a cooling fan that consumes 35A of continuous current requires the use of an FK35 controller, and although a 60 series controller may be substituted, there is no real benefit in doing so.
My fan has a peak current draw of 105 Amps, will this controller work with my fan?
An electric motor generates its own voltage when rotating under load that is typically about two thirds the input voltage, this generated voltage reduces the effective voltage applied to the motor windings by a factor of three and the reduction in voltage lowers the running current by the same amount. When a voltage is applied to a non-rotating motor, this voltage is not generated, and the effective voltage and current are not reduced, so when full input voltage is applied to a non-rotating motor, a non reduced or peak current occurs until the motor attains the working rotational velocity. The Delta controller ramps the voltage up slowly, avoiding locked-rotor current conditions. Moreover, although the Delta controller output devices have a peak current rating in excess of 400A, the controller is internally current limited to 50A short term in order to regulate peak currents and 35A long term in order to protect a shorted or dragging fan. In other words, the peak current specification of the fan doesn't need to be considered when choosing a controller.




