lights dim when my sub hits....how do i cure this?
lights dim when my sub hits....how do i cure this?
idk what needs to be done here....im running approx 1200w to a single 12"...i ran 0 ga to the amp. just dont know what i need from here to stop the dimming...its not alot but you can tell...thanks
I have a 1000 watt amp going to 1 10 inch sub in my screw with a second battery and my lights still dim. They say my alt. is to small. When its time for a new alt. ill get a bigger one or have them rebuild this one.
i have a 5 farad that i used with this amp (its a 2400w) when i had it running both 12's in my audi...everyone says "dont get a cap they are useless" then others say "go get a cap" idk what to do...i guess run this till my alt goes? then buy a new one
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Is it bad to run the subs without a capacitor and the light dims. I think my light dims when they are on but they are never really on on the inside, and I really dont care. Is it bad for my alternator?
Do the Big 3 upgrade... Read here to find out what it is The alt on these trucks can handle pretty good power loads... Just the factory wiring is insufficient.
you need a bigger alternator, your amp draw is now more than what your alternator can put out. batteries can only store so much energy before you need the current from the alt, capacitors are pretty much useless for energy storage. they should only be used if you 12volt voltage swings wildly. think of it this way, the alt is the source of all power for a system, you betteries and caps are just the reserve sure they have a little bit of juice in em but caps drain within miliseconds and batteries drop from 14 volts to 12 or lower within a second with large amp draws. after that your system is runing on alternator alone. this is why lights dim. the fix is not more betteries or more caps. its more alternator (or less amp draw) nothing wrong with using multiple batteries and caps with an audio system, but they arnt the fix to the problem, wire upgrades are a good idea too, the less resistance a run of wire has the less your power loss is at the end of the wire
Originally Posted by styxnpicks
wire upgrades are a good idea too, the less resistance a run of wire has the less your power loss is at the end of the wire
The thinner gauge wire will be unable to pass the current flow from the source to the destination as quickly as the destination can use it. When the electrons can not freely flow through the conduit (the wire), they collide. This collision creates heat, and the heat will eventually melt the insulation and when that happens......
So, like styxnpicks said, UPGRADE the wires to suit the demand. Aside from the battery cables and the lead going to the alternator, your wires to the amps in your truck are a heavier gauge than anything else in you factory harness. Hmmm.......


