I bought a pair of lights and I mounted them for my new set of reverse lights. They're wired up to one of my aux switches, and I can't get them to come on. I even put a battery straight to my switch to see if I wasn't getting power or a good ground. Didn't work. I know the lights work because I hooked them straight to a battery last night. I grounded the lights in the rear and ran the power up to the cab. I'd keep working on it but I have work in a half hour.

I NEED HELP


P.S. I checked my grounds and even sanded down were I put the ground for the lights.

 

Switch to another ground.

 

for an Aux switch, do you have to have the key turned on?

 

Recheck grounds. Check inline fuses. maybe bypass the switch and try just connecting the positive ends. Gotta be something simple.

 

maybe its a bad switch...^^^ like he said its got to be something simple.

 

You might have shorted out your lights as well accidentally touching power/ground while source was hot. But it is definitely something simple, just look at where the current breaks, start at the battery and work your way back testing the wire at intervals where current may have stopped (through switches, grommets, etc).

 

alot of switches are not designed to pull high amperage that your lights need, you probably should have used relays

 

I'm glad work doesn't block this site. I can read the replys while it's pouring outside. If it helps they're only 55 watt's. They're meant for a boat, and it even came with a switch to run them so I thought it would be ok to use my switches. I'm off work at 8 then the trucks getting backed up into the garage to try again. Wish me luck.

 

Agree.

I'd say the switch is fried because of the current draw from the lights. Always check the lights' current draw and match it to the switch's [the switch should be rated to the lights' MINIMUM amp].

Do some basic trouble shooting: Wire the positive and ground of the lights straight to a 12V battery source [remember to FUSE the power wire] and this will tell you a great deal.

Just back track from there and you'll nail the problem.

Good luck.

 

... of course, it may have been a bad switch from production.

Your local Home Depot/Lowes/Wally's World or automotive outlet store will have want you want.

 

radio shack carries up to a 30 amp switch... I still think you need a relay too

 

people are assuming things that can't be assumed and giving you advice for it, no offense. You need to figure out if the lights are still working (you might have shorted them out during installation), so bypass EVERYTHING (the switch, fuses, relays, anything but raw wire). Basically run the positive wire to the lights, and make sure you're getting 12v all the way back to right before the light housing. Then test around for a good ground and use that, if the lights work you can move on to diagnosing switches, etc. Do not use butt splices, etc. Make sure all your crimps are good by checking for 12v on both ends of the crimps, I'd recommend soldering [like everyone else].

What we need to know:
Lights still work?
Where does the 12v current stop (if at all)?

If it stops replace or diagnose why it stopped there.

If those are both ok, then its your ground 100%. It's simple to narrow it down.

This kind of wiring is extremely straightforward.

 

Thanks everyone for all the advice. It was something stupied.

Here's the new thread.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=301960