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RAFA26, getting new wheels and tires...

Old May 12, 2007 | 12:50 PM
  #31  
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does it have to be a 285/45? I could see something more along the lines of 315/35 under there

I have 275/45's and I hate the size
 
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Old May 12, 2007 | 02:07 PM
  #32  
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From: hatboro-pa
Originally Posted by styxnpicks
does it have to be a 285/45? I could see something more along the lines of 315/35 under there

I have 275/45's and I hate the size
If they were a soft ride i would go even with a 30, i know they looks nicer but anything lower than 40 is FUC#@ hard.
 
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Old May 12, 2007 | 02:14 PM
  #33  
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From: hatboro-pa
Originally Posted by azmidget91
they were hitting the actual flares? must be a different offset then i have mine used to rub the iner fender untill it rubbed a big enough hole in it now i dont hit at all i just hit the bump stop but that rarely happens with my 5" drop because of the coilovers i have back there, i dunno if it were me id be looking at getting the rear end narrowed or have the back of the wheel machined to fit those wheels with a 305
Any guess how much would cost a rear end narrow work ? I really don't like the idea of diminishing the material of the back of the wheels for safety reasons.
 
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Old May 12, 2007 | 05:45 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by rafa26
Any guess how much would cost a rear end narrow work ? I really don't like the idea of diminishing the material of the back of the wheels for safety reasons.
$1100 to narrow it but that is not your problem your suspension is.
 
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Old May 12, 2007 | 05:48 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by rafa26
Yes friend, i sold them yesterday. Put them on my driveway with a sign, they didn't last one day.
I didn't know is so easy to sell stuff on the driveway when we leave in a busy road.
Haha, thats a good way to sell them. I should try that with some of my old parts.
 
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Old May 12, 2007 | 06:39 PM
  #36  
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From: hatboro-pa
Originally Posted by anaheim_drew
$1100 to narrow it but that is not your problem your suspension is.
And how much would be to get a 4 link rear suspension exactly the way you think is right Drew ?
 
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Old May 12, 2007 | 07:05 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by rafa26
And how much would be to get a 4 link rear suspension exactly the way you think is right Drew ?
It's not just about changing a part here and a part there. It's about planning so the parts work together for a common goal.

You are now going with a 22x9 compared to your old 24x10's.
A 305/40/22 in the rear and a 285/40 in the front will work with what you have now suspension wise.........OOPS
Sorry, 285 is the widest you should go on a 9" wheel

This is a 285/40/22 with a 5" rear drop


7.5 drop still does not clear fender lip


My solution was that I had the fender flare attached different and the lip somewhat removed providing the needed clearance for my 24"s to tuck..
Pictures next week
 

Last edited by anaheim_drew; May 12, 2007 at 07:42 PM.
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Old May 12, 2007 | 07:11 PM
  #38  
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Rafa, I have those exact tires on my 22s, but in a 305/40/22 size. I would highly suggest getting the size I have because it gives a very noticable gain in width, and the height difference is only about half an inch. I know because my best friend's dad has them in the 45 series on his 22s and they look REALLY skinny to mine, and when parked side by side you could BARELY see more height on his.


With all your power you need the wider tire
 
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Old May 12, 2007 | 09:17 PM
  #39  
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ok in all reality guys no street tire, no matter what the size, is going to provide any traction with 600+ hp unless he running around in 4wd all the time. It is not so much the width but the tire compound that is going to make the difference. Rafa if I were you man I would do whatever looks best to you on the street and get a set of lightweight 17's with DR's for the track. Dont know if you have ever seen the guy with the turbo chevy truck with 1000+ hp by the name of Parish. Runs his truck in 4wd with DR's on all 4 corners- pretty sweet even though its a chevy.
 
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Old May 13, 2007 | 03:42 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by anaheim_drew
$1100 to narrow it but that is not your problem your suspension is.
how in any way could the suspenions be the problem? although i do agree a 4 link is almost a must now with the power rafael is putting down, for traction but in no way is it going to help the tire hitting the fender

4 link approximate cost
$300 for coilovers
$300 for 4link parts
plus labor

1100 for narrowing the rearend seems a bit steep unless if that includes taking it out of the truck and putting it back in, i had a ford 9" narrowed 3" for $300 try going around to some machine shops and asking how much they would charge
 
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Old May 13, 2007 | 03:51 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Black3v
ok in all reality guys no street tire, no matter what the size, is going to provide any traction with 600+ hp unless he running around in 4wd all the time. It is not so much the width but the tire compound that is going to make the difference.
i beg to differ
 
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Old May 13, 2007 | 04:28 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by azmidget91
i beg to differ
DAMN .... thats some rubber!!!
 
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Old May 13, 2007 | 05:31 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by azmidget91
how in any way could the suspenions be the problem? although i do agree a 4 link is almost a must now with the power rafael is putting down, for traction but in no way is it going to help the tire hitting the fender
Those of us with Lariat flares have a lip under the fender to hold them on. It will take an 8.5" wheel to clear the lip and tuck. If you reduce bottoming out by improving the suspension along with selecting the proper size tire and wheel, then the tire will not come in contact with the lip under hard starts or bumps. What did you do when you were bottoming out?
mine used to rub the iner fender untill it rubbed a big enough hole in it now

i dont hit at all i just hit the bump stop but that rarely happens with my 5" drop because of the coilovers i have back there
You attempted to solve the problem which was your suspension.
1100 for narrowing the rearend seems a bit steep unless if that includes taking it out of the truck and putting it back in, i had a ford 9" narrowed 3" for $300 try going around to some machine shops and asking how much they would charge
I would love to say what I am thinking but I will hold off.
 
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Old May 13, 2007 | 12:40 PM
  #44  
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From: Maricopa, AZ
Originally Posted by anaheim_drew


Those of us with Lariat flares have a lip under the fender to hold them on. It will take an 8.5" wheel to clear the lip and tuck. If you reduce bottoming out by improving the suspension along with selecting the proper size tire and wheel, then the tire will not come in contact with the lip under hard starts or bumps. What did you do when you were bottoming out?
You attempted to solve the problem which was your suspension.

I would love to say what I am thinking but I will hold off.
that lip on the flare bolts to the fender and last time i checked i have fenders too

i didnt put the coilovers on to stop the tire from rubbing like i said the tires dont rub anymore they rubbed for like a week, i put them on so that i had a better ride the stock springs were way too soft. yes a side affect of this is that i dont bottom out as much but that wasnt the purpose of it

and go ahead and say that i didnt pay to have the rearend narrowed, and that my dad probably did (because i know thats what you want to say) but that is not the truth i paid to have it done

or were you going to say you get what you pay for? in that case what on your truck did you pay full price for? like you always say you have to just find a good deal and thats what i did
 
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Old May 13, 2007 | 12:58 PM
  #45  
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From: hatboro-pa
Originally Posted by anaheim_drew
It's not just about changing a part here and a part there. It's about planning so the parts work together for a common goal.

You are now going with a 22x9 compared to your old 24x10's.
A 305/40/22 in the rear and a 285/40 in the front will work with what you have now suspension wise.........OOPS
Sorry, 285 is the widest you should go on a 9" wheel

This is a 285/40/22 with a 5" rear drop


7.5 drop still does not clear fender lip


My solution was that I had the fender flare attached different and the lip somewhat removed providing the needed clearance for my 24"s to tuck..
Pictures next week
Drew your truck is looking very nice dude, nice work man.
 
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