RAFA26, getting new wheels and tires...
Thank you Rafa!!!
But you dont have flares that attach to the lip of the fender and extend 1/2" more inside.
And why did they rub and why did they stop rubbing?
Now you are a mind reader
Correct on all of the above....
So what does your $300 price for narrowing a 9" Ford rear end (that shops have been doing since before you were born) have to do with Narrowing a Sterling 9.75 or 10.25 rear end that only a hand full of shops have done?
Originally Posted by azmidget91
that lip on the flare bolts to the fender and last time i checked i have fenders too
But you dont have flares that attach to the lip of the fender and extend 1/2" more inside.
i didnt put the coilovers on to stop the tire from rubbing like i said the tires dont rub anymore they rubbed for like a week,
And why did they rub and why did they stop rubbing?
i put them on so that i had a better ride the stock springs were way too soft. yes a side affect of this is that i dont bottom out as much but that wasnt the purpose of it
and go ahead and say that i didnt pay to have the rearend narrowed, and that my dad probably did (because i know thats what you want to say) but that is not the truth i paid to have it done
or were you going to say you get what you pay for? in that case what on your truck did you pay full price for? like you always say you have to just find a good deal and thats what i did
So what does your $300 price for narrowing a 9" Ford rear end (that shops have been doing since before you were born) have to do with Narrowing a Sterling 9.75 or 10.25 rear end that only a hand full of shops have done?
Originally Posted by azmidget91
i beg to differ




If it were me I would have kept the 24's for daily drivin since they looked good and had a track only setup but I am only living vicariously through you Rafa.
Originally Posted by anaheim_drew
Thank you Rafa!!!
And why did they rub and why did they stop rubbing?
And why did they rub and why did they stop rubbing?
Originally Posted by anaheim_drew
Correct on all of the above....
So what does your $300 price for narrowing a 9" Ford rear end (that shops have been doing since before you were born) have to do with Narrowing a Sterling 9.75 or 10.25 rear end that only a hand full of shops have done?
So what does your $300 price for narrowing a 9" Ford rear end (that shops have been doing since before you were born) have to do with Narrowing a Sterling 9.75 or 10.25 rear end that only a hand full of shops have done?
)
So for 1 week your tires were rubbing and you did what you could to fix the problem based on your knowledge and ability. NOTHING!! But you were able to keep driving because
I asked what caused the tire to rub and you did not answer because you still don't know. Yet you continue to tell others what they should do, how they should do it or what they should have done even though
NOBODY ON THIS FORUM OR THE OTHER ONE HAS HAD AS MANY PROBLEMS WITH THEIR SUSPENSION AS YOU HAVE. Why do you think this is?
You must have paid for the certification. Why else would you post this plea for help
Originally Posted by azmidget91
like i said they stopped rubbing after like a week because the tires rubbed a hole in the inner fender to where they didnt rub anymore, if you actually read what people post you would have seen that
NOBODY ON THIS FORUM OR THE OTHER ONE HAS HAD AS MANY PROBLEMS WITH THEIR SUSPENSION AS YOU HAVE. Why do you think this is?
Originally Posted by azmidget91
well being that axles have basically kept the same concept since even you were born its all the same thing, cut the housing on both ends take out the desired width, weld them back together, cut the axle shaft and re spline it, something any fabrication or even a maching shop that has never done a single axle could do (btw thats comeing from me a certified welder and machinist 

Originally Posted by azmidget91
ok poked a hole in my radiator pulling my stock fan out what should i do.......
ok well i can see the hole its where the fins and the tube meet i just put some high temp silicone on it think that will work?
yeah i tired soldering it that didnt work then i tried welding it hahaha nope so jb Weld for now
ok well i can see the hole its where the fins and the tube meet i just put some high temp silicone on it think that will work?
yeah i tired soldering it that didnt work then i tried welding it hahaha nope so jb Weld for now
sorry drew i didnt relize you actually wanted an answer, my tires rubbed because the offset on the wheels were not right, these wheels were made for this truck so i didnt bother checking before buying them, so they rubbed because they stick out too far and hit the inner fender instead of tucking in like they should, the front is even worse they stick out about an inch and a half but since they camber in as the suspenion goes up they hit the inner fender aswell, its <b> not </b> because the suspension was too soft, it souldnt matter how soft the suspension is the tire is supposed to tuck inside the fender and not hit it or the side of the inner fender, if anything it sould hit the top of the inner fender, if your suspension goes that low and have that big of tires.
why didnt i do anything about it? because i was lazy and was going to cut the inner fender but waited too long to where the tire did it its self
why didnt i do anything about it? because i was lazy and was going to cut the inner fender but waited too long to where the tire did it its self
hey Rafa26, if you're truly worried about getting the tires to hook, then maybe you should get your rear-end tubbed. don't get your rear axle narrowed. that will do nothing for you. that is just an idiotic thing to do on a truck. a car, maybe...a jeep, definetaly. not a truck though

this is a perfect example of tubbing. some sheetmetal can easily be shaped to cover the tires and still leave your bed useable...just a little less space between the fenders than stock. what the guys did in the pic above is amazing looking
then you can get some 22" rims with more negative offset and some fat @ss meats.

this is a perfect example of tubbing. some sheetmetal can easily be shaped to cover the tires and still leave your bed useable...just a little less space between the fenders than stock. what the guys did in the pic above is amazing looking
then you can get some 22" rims with more negative offset and some fat @ss meats.
Last edited by Tylus; May 19, 2007 at 09:12 PM.
Originally Posted by Tylus
hey Rafa26, if you're truly worried about getting the tires to hook, then maybe you should get your rear-end tubbed. don't get your rear axle narrowed. that will do nothing for you. that is just an idiotic thing to do on a truck. a car, maybe...a jeep, definetaly. not a truck though

this is a perfect example of tubbing. some sheetmetal can easily be shaped to cover the tires and still leave your bed useable...just a little less space between the fenders than stock. what the guys did in the pic above is amazing looking
then you can get some 22" rims with more negative offset and some fat @ss meats.

this is a perfect example of tubbing. some sheetmetal can easily be shaped to cover the tires and still leave your bed useable...just a little less space between the fenders than stock. what the guys did in the pic above is amazing looking
then you can get some 22" rims with more negative offset and some fat @ss meats.
Oh, and that truck had the rear end narrowed
don't get your rear axle narrowed. that will do nothing for you.
that is just an idiotic thing to do on a truck.
a car, maybe...
a jeep, definetaly.
not a truck though
that is just an idiotic thing to do on a truck.
a car, maybe...
a jeep, definetaly.
not a truck though
Last edited by anaheim_drew; May 19, 2007 at 10:22 PM.
Originally Posted by anaheim_drew
Only an idiot who knows nothing about our trucks suspension, high wheel offset, and fender clearance would suggest that getting the rear end tubbed would solve the problem.
Oh, and that truck had the rear end narrowed
Oh, and that truck had the rear end narrowed
and apparently I am now an idiot. wow, when did we meet? I make one post about a plausible and functional fix and suddenly I'm reduced in status from a functional member of society because someone has his panties wedged up his crack, or thinks he is Steven Hawkins. what makes our rear suspension different from the leaf sprung suspension of the past 50 some odd years...oh I know, the shocks are placed outboard the frame rails...nothing else, and nothing special...supposedly it's stiffer
so teach me then o grandoisish suspension master, why would tubbing the bed be useless? I've seen it for years in cars and street trucks. I'm pretty sure that Rafa's truck classifies as a street truck (even though it's 4x4).
1. you need room for big rims and wide tires to tuck without rubbing the fender lip right?...or did I miss the entire point of these last 2 pages of the thread?
2. maybe you meant that the stock suspension would preclude doing this because of the shock placement. you're 100% right. when stock. however, if I've read the posts right, Rafa is going to a custom 4 link. that will remove that obstacle.
3. tubbing works. you get to keep the same body lines and look from the outside perspective, and you gain the added traction from wider tires.
4. if you really want to get technical, that truck also has a quick change 9" drag axle in it. of course it's been narrowed...it ain't stock...wow, and I'm the dumb one
5. narrowing the stock axle does nothing for you. you still have to worry about tire to shock clearance if you keep the leafs. if you go 4-link, you still have to worry about the max distance between wheel well and inner edge of fender. kind of limits you in width. fill in the blank. what is the widest tire the 2004+ f150 can fit without rubbing? _________ I'll admit I don't know.
btw, that part you bolded (about the jeep) was in reference to Jeepers that swap in aftermarket axles that are 6-12" wider than their OEM axles. they get them narrowed to prevent having a vehicle that is over 7 ft wide and so they'll fit onto trailers and trails
1. you need room for big rims and wide tires to tuck without rubbing the fender lip right?...or did I miss the entire point of these last 2 pages of the thread?
2. maybe you meant that the stock suspension would preclude doing this because of the shock placement. you're 100% right. when stock. however, if I've read the posts right, Rafa is going to a custom 4 link. that will remove that obstacle.
3. tubbing works. you get to keep the same body lines and look from the outside perspective, and you gain the added traction from wider tires.
4. if you really want to get technical, that truck also has a quick change 9" drag axle in it. of course it's been narrowed...it ain't stock...wow, and I'm the dumb one
5. narrowing the stock axle does nothing for you. you still have to worry about tire to shock clearance if you keep the leafs. if you go 4-link, you still have to worry about the max distance between wheel well and inner edge of fender. kind of limits you in width. fill in the blank. what is the widest tire the 2004+ f150 can fit without rubbing? _________ I'll admit I don't know.
Originally Posted by FX4REACTION1
Dam drew! You never used to be so mean j/k 
again never giving real information
i didnt read those last 2 big posts basically cuz i dont really care but i do have to agree with drew on the tubbing you are going to hit your stock springs and shocks before you would hit the inside of the bed which is when you would tub(but unlike drew this isnt calling you an idiot even though i suggested the narrowed rearend that drew is now basically agreeing with, and instead i give a reason to why tubs wouldnt work)
Originally Posted by azmidget91
yes he was, he was the day he joined ftw bragging about getting a magnaflow L style exhaust for $160 when cheapest price was way over 400 and would tell anyone where he got it just to find out it was a magnaflow muffler and tips with some tubes bent by a muffler shop
again never giving real information
i didnt read those last 2 big posts basically cuz i dont really care but i do have to agree with drew on the tubbing you are going to hit your stock springs and shocks before you would hit the inside of the bed which is when you would tub(but unlike drew this isnt calling you an idiot even though i suggested the narrowed rearend that drew is now basically agreeing with, and instead i give a reason to why tubs wouldnt work)
again never giving real information
i didnt read those last 2 big posts basically cuz i dont really care but i do have to agree with drew on the tubbing you are going to hit your stock springs and shocks before you would hit the inside of the bed which is when you would tub(but unlike drew this isnt calling you an idiot even though i suggested the narrowed rearend that drew is now basically agreeing with, and instead i give a reason to why tubs wouldnt work)



