Lifted & Blown... wheres the weak link?
I'm gonna start off by saying I'm not planning on doing this to my truck, but I'm sure it's a thought that most of us have entertained.
I've seen a LOT of lifted trucks on this forum, and quite a few supercharged ones. However, I've never seen one thats lifted & blown. Is the limitation our wallets, or are there too many weaknesses that would need to be taken care of? If so, what? I imagine a good lift would cost ~$3,000 installed & a blower can be anywhere from $4,000 to $8,000 installed.
Lets figure around 400hp & 400 ftlb's to the rear tires, and not get tied up on rather its a Whipple or Roush -- both are capable of these numbers. Lets also figure the lift would allow us to run a 35" x 12.5" tire. Once again, the most popular lifts allow this tire size, and lets not get tied up on which lift would be "best" for this scenario. I think most of the 6" lifts are pretty close when it comes to quality. As far as gears go lets figure 4.10's. Although they were not offered (except in 10.25" ring & pinion) in 2004 / 2005, I think this (or to 4.56's) are a pretty common swap.
Bigger tires obviously mean the trucks should hook much better. Tires this much bigger, and heavier, would obviously put much, much more stress on all parts involved. Breaking would almost certainly need upgrading as well. How about stress on the transfer case? Transmission? Driveshaft (as Matt found out this past week)?
For the most part, I would venture to say a truck that's blown & jacked up would be more of a Pavement Princess than functional woods truck. I've owned & built a lot of play trucks, and the only one that broke the 300 hp mark had a 410 cubic inch motor in it... I've found no benefits, in a pure woods truck, of having 250 hp out back to 350hp.
Anyways, lets see where this leads us. I think if this would be done that it would be soooooooo much easier to install the blower first, lift last. Who wants to work on an engine on a step ladder if it can be avoided??
I've seen a LOT of lifted trucks on this forum, and quite a few supercharged ones. However, I've never seen one thats lifted & blown. Is the limitation our wallets, or are there too many weaknesses that would need to be taken care of? If so, what? I imagine a good lift would cost ~$3,000 installed & a blower can be anywhere from $4,000 to $8,000 installed.
Lets figure around 400hp & 400 ftlb's to the rear tires, and not get tied up on rather its a Whipple or Roush -- both are capable of these numbers. Lets also figure the lift would allow us to run a 35" x 12.5" tire. Once again, the most popular lifts allow this tire size, and lets not get tied up on which lift would be "best" for this scenario. I think most of the 6" lifts are pretty close when it comes to quality. As far as gears go lets figure 4.10's. Although they were not offered (except in 10.25" ring & pinion) in 2004 / 2005, I think this (or to 4.56's) are a pretty common swap.
Bigger tires obviously mean the trucks should hook much better. Tires this much bigger, and heavier, would obviously put much, much more stress on all parts involved. Breaking would almost certainly need upgrading as well. How about stress on the transfer case? Transmission? Driveshaft (as Matt found out this past week)?
For the most part, I would venture to say a truck that's blown & jacked up would be more of a Pavement Princess than functional woods truck. I've owned & built a lot of play trucks, and the only one that broke the 300 hp mark had a 410 cubic inch motor in it... I've found no benefits, in a pure woods truck, of having 250 hp out back to 350hp.
Anyways, lets see where this leads us. I think if this would be done that it would be soooooooo much easier to install the blower first, lift last. Who wants to work on an engine on a step ladder if it can be avoided??
The guy in this thread just broke his drive shaft and isn't lifted.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=282044
I would have to believe that being lifted with bigger/heavier tires would put even more strain on the setup and be even more prone to failure. Not to mention changing drive shaft angles, etc.
However, if I had the cash, I would definitely drop a blower in my truck, I've always wanted one in a lifted truck. I had one on my previous vehicle and they are a BLAST
I would think that if you didn't track it much or beat on it too bad it might be ok
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=282044
I would have to believe that being lifted with bigger/heavier tires would put even more strain on the setup and be even more prone to failure. Not to mention changing drive shaft angles, etc.
However, if I had the cash, I would definitely drop a blower in my truck, I've always wanted one in a lifted truck. I had one on my previous vehicle and they are a BLAST
I would think that if you didn't track it much or beat on it too bad it might be ok
I would have gears placed in immediately, this will transfer the drivetrain strain further outside (cv's, hubs, axle). Otherwise you're putting your transmission/tcase through significant situations where it bogs down on these components. I'm sure the driveshaft and hubs will be where it bottlenecks from that point on. You will be fine depending on how heavy the tire is.
brahmus has a lifted truck with and s/c. he has a pre 04 model with a lightning setup but the same things apply, and hes making over 400 rwhp i believe.
he could be somebody to talk to about this stuff...
hope he doesnt mind me posting a pic of his truck
he could be somebody to talk to about this stuff...
hope he doesnt mind me posting a pic of his truck
Remember, I started this all off by saying I have no plans to do this to my truck. Unfortunately I fall into the catagory of 80% pavement pounder / 20% offroad.
But HOLY CRAP! That truck looks sick! That makes me want to dump an extra 10G's into this thing! I already get looks around town, but people must break their neck as that thing comes screaming past!
Josiah makes a great point about swapping gears first. Where 4.10's may be okay with 35's, I believe 4.56's would be a better choice for 35's and above. Gotta run for now.
But HOLY CRAP! That truck looks sick! That makes me want to dump an extra 10G's into this thing! I already get looks around town, but people must break their neck as that thing comes screaming past!
Josiah makes a great point about swapping gears first. Where 4.10's may be okay with 35's, I believe 4.56's would be a better choice for 35's and above. Gotta run for now.
Originally Posted by weaseled
Remember, I started this all off by saying I have no plans to do this to my truck. Unfortunately I fall into the catagory of 80% pavement pounder / 20% offroad.
But HOLY CRAP! That truck looks sick! That makes me want to dump an extra 10G's into this thing! I already get looks around town, but people must break their neck as that thing comes screaming past!
Josiah makes a great point about swapping gears first. Where 4.10's may be okay with 35's, I believe 4.56's would be a better choice for 35's and above. Gotta run for now.
But HOLY CRAP! That truck looks sick! That makes me want to dump an extra 10G's into this thing! I already get looks around town, but people must break their neck as that thing comes screaming past!
Josiah makes a great point about swapping gears first. Where 4.10's may be okay with 35's, I believe 4.56's would be a better choice for 35's and above. Gotta run for now.
it depends on how you drive it. i tore up my spider gear, then again i have the 8.8. I would think it would balance out though having the 5.4 blown on the bigger axle to my 4.6 on the 8.8. I have 37's and I tend to drive it like I stole it....



