The 4wd launch I saw was asking to break something, the truck was leaping side to side as the front tires would differentiate the power to each tire, therefore taking turns at spinning, it would cause a very awkward looking hop as if it were grabbing for traction up front. If this is the issue you're having it's only a matter of time so bring it up to JDM. To stop this I would suggest a selectable locker or truetrac LS. In my opinion that would lessen the strain on your 8.8. When transferring power to each output axle, there is a great amount of strain placed on the spider gears. There really is nothing you can do about the hubs unless you get manual locking hubs (24's are probably not possible). The tcase internals should be fine as long as you are in 4hi, I would wait to build that up as I'm the only one I know whose damaged the tcase. The hubs are a well known issue.

 

You could potentially snap your front drive shaft and many other drivetrain components putting so much torque on them. I'm sure josiah can go more in depth on the possible damage but that is the jist of.

 

Street bike? No where close. My Hayabusa does 0-60 in 2.5 and 0-100 in 6 sec. 0-186 in 18 sec stock. So NOWHERE near close to a stock street bike. Let alone a bike with small mods like a pipe, filter and PC3. You will need about 1200 hp to compete with that. vipers and Vettes need 800-1000 hp to keep up. Oh and just in case th bike doe s achepa turbo for $3500, our rwhp jumps to 250-350 and your hp number become impossible to compete.

Stock fast stock bike 1/4 mile times are 145-150 mph in the low to mid 9 sec range. Turbo it is more like 160-180 mph at low 7 to mid 8s. Not a good, or fair, comparo.
Now a POS HArdley, sure, you can beat it with a god damn Civic Si.

 

He is correct, you can snap your front driveshaft as well. I'm sure the bolts will shear before the driveshaft snaps however, they're made to do that in most apps. I worry less about that and more about your hubs/diff. 700 hp to an 8.8 (divided between all 4's though) is still overkill. I'm sure JDM will know more about tolerances on these components but definitely bring up the hubs and open diff up front, especially if you're getting a ton of wheel hop because it's an open diff.

 

Thats rediculous! I like 4 wheels under me.

 

Well explained, but anyway with some slicks and lauching in 4X2 the truck is supposed to be even faster because of less drivetrain losses, less rotating mass, lighter wheels and tires, one more reason to get better ETs.

 

this is the kind of stuff i expected. you have to beat 11.7 to be faster than a Z06. i am quite confident you will do that, if the driveline can hold it. i would suggest investing in a 9" with a quick changer to install a spool for the track. it takes a little time to swap chunks, but it can hold anything you can put to it.


you will end up needing a setup that can lock fully with 11.5" - 17" slicks. it really depends on how much power you want to get down. don't halfway do this part. tubbed and 4 linked. w ladder bars or a setup that works but pleases you aestetically will do it.

-bill

 

I was mentioning the 0 to 60mph time Bill.

What is that ???

 

the Z06 comment was to encourage you to go for it.


a 9" rear end can be made to any configuration. nextel cup cars use it, dirt track cars use it, most every big time drag car uses it regardless of brand.

the 9" ford rear ens has 4 bolts at the end of each axle, and allow removal without "C" clips. the rear end is modular in the sense that the pinion and ring gears are installed as a unit. they can be setup on a bench. when the axles are removed the retaining nuts are removed and a different ratio and differential setup an be installed with gasket. it only takes a good well rehearsed mechanic maybe an hour to change it.

now a quick change is another animal. it's still 9", but it is designed for rapid removal and differential aseembly change. in minutes . if it is cold that is.


by changing to a 9" you have a rear end that can be built to handle ANY power requirements. there is no way you will ever hurt one. by going to a spool for the track you eliminate issues with strength and losing a diff/spder gears/worm gears. but spools require care in wet sutuations on the street. not good. a 9" will give you both worlds, even if you stay with a locker or limited slip. a detroit locker 9" can handle 10.0 second cars stock. a race detroit locker (a ratcheting locked rear) will handle many hundreds of hp. 800hp for nextel cup for 500 miles.

 

What kind of rear end do i have on my truck and how much power can it handle ?
Thanks Bill.

 

I have no idea who would know what a 9.75 can handle, but I have yet to see one go. The 9.75 is what you have, and an 8.8 in front. Sorry I didn't make that clear in my post where I talked about them.

 

You should be fine with your 9.75
Mines holding together just fine. I say if it's not broke don't fix it,,lol

Phil

 

I would think at this point the transfer case is the wink link in the drive line. Wouldnt you agree? All the power going through the beefed up transmission is still going through the stock transfer case isn't it. Even in 2wd the trasfer case is still sending the power to the rear wheels. Like others, I am not sure how strong the factory t-case is but with slicks and 750HP I strongly suspect it wont be long for this world.

 

x2 Rafa I just took my truck in to have the spider gear, ring, and pinion replaced. Apparently driving it hard and the big tires ate it up. I have the 8.8 front and rear. You only have that on the front. The guys there told me that the open differential is pretty weak.

 

One hell of a 60'

Truck quick rafa, pretty sure it would beat mine as they both set right now. etrevino103186 can tell you how slow my truck is.