Installing a Scytek Galaxy 5000RS-2W on my 05 Scab and am having problems locating a few wires for the install. I can't seem to find the proper door trigger wire/s, door lock/unlock wires, and parking light wire on a truck with automatic headlights. I was told that the door trigger and lock/unlock wires were located in the drivers kickpanel but WOW are there alot of wires and connectors. If you know which connector it is in please let me know. From what i see there is a top small, middle small, and a lower huge connector. Also, does the truck use a negative or positive door trigger system? One other thing i've found is a second ignition wire on my module that needs to be hooked up. Does anyone know where to find a second ignition wire? Thanks!!!

 

Lock wires, door trigger, brake and ground are all found in the kick panel. They are not in any plug. They are in the large harness that runs in the track to the rear.

Lock is a pink/yellow and unlock is pink/green.

Door trigger is a black/blue. There are four of these but use your test light and turn the dome light on/off with the dimmer switch. Roll all the way up for on and all the way down for off. Your test light will confirm. On a side note you can turn on the dome light with a negative pulse to the orange/green at the dimmer switch. This gets around the dome light timeout problem.

Brake is a soft light green wire that turns your test light on when you hit the brake.

As for second ignition. It is not needed. There are only four connections for your ignition. 12 volt, ignition, heater, and starter. Five if you count the blue horn wire if your system is equipped with a horn output.

 

First of all, thank you for the response. I had already found the brake wire and it functions correctly, i just couldn't find the parking light wire for my Park Light Output (+/-) wire from my module.

Isn't there a passenger door trigger and a drivers door trigger wire? I was told the Pass. Door trigger wire is Black/Pink and the drivers door trigger is Black/Yellow. I was told to take the Door Trigger Input (-) from the module and run that wire directly to the Black/Yellow wire. Then tap into that same wire from the module, solder in a 1A diode and tap into the Black/Pink wire (diode to prevent feedback). Well this did not work correctly, so then the tech guy told me to use the Door Trigger Input (+) wire from the module and tap into the Black/Lt Blue (+) wire at the headlight switch. When using the (+) input wire, i was told to unhook the (-) input wire from the module. Just looking for another opinion on this.

As far as the door lock wires, i found pink/yellow and pink/green wires but they are at the top connector that is mounted to the drivers kickpanel and appears to go to the drivers door. I haven't tested these wires yet to see if they are hot when the lock/unlock button is pressed on the door panel. I couldn't find any of these colored wires on the main sill harness. I'll look some more and see if i missed it.

You mention the door trigger being black/blue in the kickpanel. Yeah i found the four wires with this same color combo. Do they all serve the same purpose, just running to other locations in the truck? I was told to tap into this same wire for my Dome Output/Supervision (-) wire from the module.

Also, does the Factory Arm Output (-) wire need to be hooked up? So does this arm the factory alarm when the Scytek alarm is armed? I was told it was the Lt Blue/White wire at the RAP module behind the headlight switch, but the RAP module is located behind the rear seat.

One other question, have you experienced any feedback into the airbag system? Every 5 or 6 times i start the truck normally, my airbag light comes on. Kinda worried about that, but i didn't touch any of the airbag wires and all wires tested out ok that i did tap into. I'm wondering if i am getting feedback into my GEM module. Reason i say this is because when i am in tachless mode, when the remote start is activated my windshield washers come on once and again when i de-activate the remote start when the key is put in the ignition and the brake pedal is applied.

 

Not sure how well this will display, but here is a little diagram i cooked up to help with my install. I'm not an electrician, so it may not have the correct symbols It may help you see what wires i'm dealing with and what ones i was told to tap into.

Diagram Link to Zoom in

 

Seems your tech is making your install more difficult than what's needed. Please call me and we can get you pointed in the right direction. Travis 816-868-2481

 

Sorry but i can't call since i'm at work. Internet is ok though, go figure Anyways, it figures he is making it harder than what it's supposed to be. Could this be explained in writing? I appreciate the help!!!

 

Need some help locating these lock wires. I just ran out there for a quick minute to look again at the kickpanel harness. It seems like there is a large harness running along the door sills to the kick panel. Once that harness reaches the kickpanel, it splits into three sections. One section goes to the large lower connector which in turn goes up the kickpanel to the dash. The second section goes to the middle connector which i also think goes up to the dash. The third section continues on towards the firewall which i am not sure where that ends up. The door harness appears to be the top connector that is mounted to the kickpanel and it joins the dash harness running up the kickpanel.

I've looked through the main sill harness before the split and can only find a Pink/Black wire, no Pink/Yellow or Pink/Green wires. I also looked through all the wires at the main large connector (both sides of the connector) and there are no Pink/Yellow or Pink/Green. The same goes for the middle connector coming from the sill harness. I can only find those color combinations in the top connector coming from the door and going up the kickpanel to the dash harness. BUT, those two wires are dead when i hit the lock and unlock button on the door panel. There is split loom and electrical tape around the remaining sill harness that continues up to the firewall. I can remove the tape and split loom if you think the wires are in there. This is just weird

 

I'm in the opposite. Phone is easier due to me installing on the lots all day. Todays schedule has me slammed with 6 remote starts, 2 sets of step bars, 3 bugshields at different ford dealers. All crammed into an 8 hour day.

Forget the whole diode thing that he is telling you. Your system should have a violet positive door trigger wire. Just connect that to the black/blue in the kick panel that shows voltage the way I described above. That is your door trigger wire for all doors. He's trying to make you go to the latching wires and that's not needed.

Your truck does not come with factory alarm so don't worry about that.

Your system should have a black/white domelight turn on wire. Connect that to the orange/green behind the dimmer switch.

Connect your white 12volt positive parking light flash wire to the brown wire at your headlight switch. Sometimes there are two. Either one will do.

The lock and unlock wires will show a posive current at idle. When you hit the lock or unlock button they will ground. Sometimes your rwst light alone will kick them.

 

Thanks again!! I'll check those things out. One more question, will i need to run relays for the door lock outputs? My manual says they are (-) 500mA for each lock and unlock wire. If i am reading the factory diagram right, this is just sending a signal to the factory relays to lock/unlock the doors correct? Thanks for all of your help!!! If i have problems i'll try giving you a call tomorrow sometime. Calling today at work isn't possible, the boss is here today

 

No relays are required. Should be able to connect directly. I believe your green is lock and blue is unlock. The pink/green and pink/yellow are positively in the door sill harness. I've done 5 f150s today from 04 to 07 and they are all the same.

 

Hey travis i one more question and i will hopefully have this thing conquered. My doors will not unlock with the new 2way remote. I found the correct lock/unlock wires and grounded them and the lock motors functioned, so i have the correct wires. I was told i had to wake up the GEM module and was given the Ford PDF with instructions on waking up the module. Do these trucks have factory alarms? If i press the door lock button twice then the horns honk. I also have a factory LED on the dash that blinks. There are a couple options on the Ford PDF and one is with an existing factory alarm and one is without it. With a factory alarm, i just wire the unock wires together and the factory alarm disarm wire directly. Without a factory alarm, it recommends tapping the unlock wire from the module to both the factory unlock wire and driver door ajar wire with diodes on each wire. Any easier/quicker way to do this? Do you have a wire color for the Driver Door Ajar wire if that is needed?

Assuming i don't have a factory alarm, is the Factory Alarm Disarm Wire not needed? You mentioned before that the Factory Alarm Arm Wire wasn't needed, just wanna make sure i don't need the Disarm wire, assuming i don't use it to wake up the GEM module.

Also, by looking at my diagram above, do i still need the relay on my Dome Output wire if i tap into the Orange/Green wire at the dimmer switch?

 

Thats pretty exceptional service Travis, not even your unit (unless I missed that somewhere) and your helping the guy out. BTW my GF should be ordering a CA-670 from you anyday now for me for X-mas. Nice to know I could count on great help if its needed.

 

Thanks for the comments.

buening

You might need relays to strengthen the outputs. Your unit should have enough to drive the wires but the Sckytec systems never suprise me. You can do this by using a pair of relays. One for each output. On your relay connect pin 87 to ground, Pin 86 to 12volts constant, Connect Pin 85 to your lock or unlock output wire on your alarm, Connect Pin 30 to the lock or unlock wire to the vehicle.

As for waking up the GEM. To test if you need to do this I usually sit in the truck with the doors closed. Lock the doors with the factory transmitter. Count to 30 and then hit unlock on the door unlock switch on the door panel. If it doesn't unlock then you have Interior Trim Switch Disable turned on. Your owners manual will tell you how to disable that feature. If your manual does not say anything about that all you need to do is use a relay to pulse the ignition with the unlock from the brain. Connect Pin 87 and Pin 86 to 12 volts constant, Pin 85 to your unlock, Pin 30 to your Blue/Green ignition wire. Set your system to double unlock pulse and it will "wake up" the vehicle.

Your truck does not come equipped with a factory security system. So no need to hook up factory disarm.

You will need to use a relay to turn your dome light on. Connect Pin 87 to Ground, Pin 86 to 12 volts constant, Pin 85 to the domelight output on your alarm, Pin 30 to the Orange/Green located in the four pin harness behind the dimmer switch.

I know using these relays sucks but with the Scytek systems it's required. That's why I stick with Code Alarm and the other premium systems. They typically have internal relays so that it's not needed.

 

Thanks again Travis. Me being the smarty i am, i went out and followed the testing instructions on the GEM wakeup sheet from Directed and the unlock feature doesn't go to sleep. I can't even get it to unlock via Scytek remote immediately after the truck is turned off, so it wouldn't even have time to go to sleep. I followed your instructions and the doors still unlock after 30 seconds. Your steps were similar to determining if the GEM needs woken up (after 2 minutes instead of 30 seconds) and the unlock button on the drivers door still works even after 4 or 5 minutes. Is there any way of testing the unlock output wire coming from the module to see if it is sending the correct signal and if the signal is strong enough?

I also noticed on the Directed GEM wake-up sheet that it only states trucks earlier than 2003 have to do this. Is this true?

I had already hooked up the domelight directly to the dimmer switch and it works fine without a relay. If you feel adding a relay would be best then i will do.

I really appreciate your help even though you aren't getting much out of the deal. I didn't find this forum and your site until after the Scytek was purchased, otherwise you would have had my business.

 

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