Damn, I guess I was wrong. I just looked in the service manual and apparently the U-joints are servicable seperately. Cool.

 

I haven't heard any reasoning officially yet. I'm gonna shoot an E-mail or two off tomorrow morning to see if anyone knows what's going on exactly.

 

Uh. Guys. The only way to replace these u-joints is to cut them off the drive shaft. I needed a drive shaft 1" longer so I had the whole thing made. Cost me $500. To Quintin's point. I also have a 1998 F150 with 240K on it and just replaced the u-joints for the first time this past summer. So. I wouldn't get too worked up over this.

 

Thanks Quintin - does the above mean that the u joints are replacable? What does servicable separately mean?

 

So has anyone replaced their u-joints in an 04, or newer f-150? I just got looking at mine and they dont have clips holding them in and It dosent say anything in my repair manual about these type of u joints. Ive changed alotof joints in past trucks but this is the first of this type Ive seen.

 

The DVD manual I have indicates the U-Joints can be replaced with a kit, but not serviced during normal intervals. This is what I found. There are pictures and more info, but this gives you the idea. I looked at mine on my 04 and the U-joints are staked. I suppose if you plan on replacing the U-joints, make sure you have the right tools and service kit. Maybe someone who has replaced them will comment.

NOTE: Do not attempt to service the universal joint without a service kit available.

NOTE: The original universal joints are retained by staking. Service universal joints are retained by traditional snap rings installed in service only grooves provided in the driveshaft yoke ears.

Not all the components of the universal joint kit will be used.

CAUTION: Do not, under any circumstance, clamp the driveshaft assembly in the jaws of a vise or similar holding fixture. Denting or localized fracturing may result, causing driveshaft failure during vehicle operation.

Place the driveshaft on a suitable workbench. Do not damage the tube.
NOTE: If the components are not marked and therefore installed incorrectly, driveshaft imbalance can occur.

Index-mark the driveshaft components.
Mark the driveshaft flange.
Mark the differential flange.

NOTE: Steel driveshafts have 8 stakes in each universal joint bearing cup bore. Aluminium driveshafts have 12 stakes in each universal joint bearing cup bore.

Position the driveshaft flange in a soft-jawed vise so the stakes retaining the universal joint bearing cups are accessible.

NOTE: Apply a downward force on the cutter and rotate the cutter to remove the stakes from the bores. The cutter will cut in both clockwise and counterclockwise directions.

Use the cutter supplied in the replacement universal joint kit to remove the staking in the flange bores.
Remove the stakes from all the bores of the driveshaft flange and the differential flange.

Place the driveshaft in the special tool so the Adapter of the C-frame press exerts pressure on the ears of the differential flange.

Position the differential flange containing the universal joint spider against the stationary end of the press and tighten the press tool adapter against the flange ears.

Press the universal joint and differential flange as far as possible without contacting the spider center and the driveshaft flange ears.

Remove the driveshaft and rotate the shaft and the differential flange 180 degrees. Repeat the use of the special tools and force the opposing bearing cup outboard as far as possible.
Slide the universal joint spider toward the screw side of the special tool and insert the half-moon punch, supplied in the universal joint replacement kit, on the exposed spider leg as shown.

NOTE: If necessary, use a pair of pliers to remove any bearing cup that fails to press out all the way.

Press the driveshaft flange universal joint bearing cup outboard by applying force to the ears of the differential flange.

Rotate the driveshaft 180 degrees, reinstall the punch tool, and remove the remaining driveshaft flange bearing cup from the driveshaft flange.
Remove the differential flange bearing cups from the differential flange in the same manner.
NOTE: Inspect the bearing cup bores and retaining ring grooves. Remove any rust or other surface irregularities.

Inspect the universal joint bearing cup bores of the flanges and driveshaft. Make sure that all raised indications of stakes are removed and the bores are clean and smooth.

 

Thanks, I thought maybe it was just mine that had these u joints, It looks like a little bead of iron around where the normal clips would be. I talked to a guy a work and his kid has an 04 and he said it has regular joints with clips...I think hes been sniffing too much glue. Its funny more people dont talk about these on here with all the big lifts and big tires youd think there would be more u-joint issues on these forums.

 

Just a small statement, the price of replacing a driveshaft is much cheaper then buying a whole new truck. Mines rusted and nasty looking, almost 5yrs old. When its 6 or 7 if neccessary I will replace mine, but by then I may have my 6" lift and it may be requiring a bigger driveshaft front & back anyways.

 

Yeah, you can get a "kit" through Ford. They want $200 for one U-joint. Or $400+ for the driveshaft.

 

Don't know what you mean about buying a whole new truck. The driveshaft will have rust on it and look bad if you haven't taken steps to prevent it. I guess it depends on where you live. I live in a very dry climate and have very little rust on the driveshaft. I wouldn't worry to much about it though, I can't remember replacing a driveshaft due to rust.

 

I had read a comment about someone stating they will get rid of the truck and get another truck so they wont have to deal with the problem. I just see it more affordable to buy the new driveshaft ( if neccessary ) than pay $35k for a new truck, that is if the person payed their truck off. I have so I see $500 cheaper than $35,000.

 

testpilot, Have you checked the price on a driveshaft? Just curious. $400 to replace the U-joints is insane. Not worth it unless the driveshaft is more than that. What other options are out there? I had a simular problem in 78 with the power steering pump on a 1978 bronco. Wanted around $200 for the "special tools" to repair it where a new pump wasn't much more than that.

 

I just replaced my driveshaft because my ujoints were grinding, going out and there was "play" in the transmission when parking, etc. Cost me 175 bucks shipped, it was used. I cannot believe they want 200+ for ONE U-joint...double you tee eff.

 

I wonder if when you get these stupid oem u-joints out a guy could replace them with a regular aftermarket set? The kind with good ol clips you can pull with a set of pliers?

 

If there are groves for a snap ring I don't see why, but I don't recall any groves, could be wrong though. One thing for sure, It will last until the warranty runs out.