Anybody have pics of there tool box, is a toolbox installation hard?

 

Before others berate you, I'll be somewhat polite since you appear new to the boards. Searching is your friend. Click the "Advanced Search" under "Search" (above) and type in TOOLBOX. Make sure you specify only this forum (for now) as you'll find a LOT of results. Good luck.

 

check in here there are a few.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=233207
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...light=tool+box
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...light=tool+box
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...light=tool+box

 

I'd like to have a low profile tool box, but I have no use for it.

 

They pretty much place a strip of some type of foam under it (for the across the rail type) and put a couple of screws in it. I had mine installed for nothing in the original truck it was put in by telling them that I was going to a different store to check on the price if they were charging me to install it. The install fee was $15 and the box was $30 cheaper than the other store. I had been to both before I got a quote on the install. 10 min later they had my truck back in front with a new box installed free of charge.

 

Do it yourself, dont put screws into your new truck, j-hook it. Some boxes come with hooks to install but if yours dont run by a hardware store and get some 4 or 5 inch threaded J-hooks and 2 pieces of thin aluminum angle about a foot long. If you tighten the bolts too much it can pull the inner bed rail out or up and make little indentions in it, this is where the angle comes in, hammer it almost flat onto itself, cap this under your rail, then put the hooks over the angle, run them through your box and tighten the nuts down. The angle distributes the force over more of the rail to keep it from deforming and if you ever take the box out, you'll never know it was there, something you can't pull off if you screwed it in. Just my 2%.

 

Here's my favorite style of toolbox in these new trucks.

 

While the search would have helpped, I know I would not have gotten off my fat @ss and finally taken pictures of another option for a tool box.

I have the 5.5' bed, so filling the bulkhead with the tool box is not a good thing for me ( wind up with the same amount of room as a civic trunk ) and I need level for the cap.

I got the weather guard pork chop boxes. These are ordered for pass or driver's side ( lid swing ) and only extend a few inches past the wheel well for the size I got which is a 9-1/4" version, there is also an 11" wide version.
The come with all the mounting hardware, I changed out the 5/16" bolts for SS bolts.
I put a 1x12" under the lower part, so I could have it up off the bed ( rather then laying on it like the directions ) so I could notch my bed mat where the rear bracket is at, so I can easily pull the bed mat out, to clean it, and slide it back under the box.





They come in Bright AL diamond plate, the Black AL diamond plate, and I think white steel.

Just a option that you might not have seen, until you triggered my memory to get the pictures and uplaod them.

Good Luck

 

I responded with pix in the thread you have in Appearance Products. Definitely go with the J-hooks, they make installation a snap and no holes in your bed rail.

 

I just installed the low pro box from UWS in my flareside last week. I too went with the J hooks. The make the install easy and if you ever had to take the box out, you wouldn't have any holes in the bed.

 

Hmmm, this is very interesting. I have been dwelling on this topic for awhile and am trying to find something to put in the bed of my supercrew (short bed as well). I'd rather not kill the length of the bed but then again I don't really need the length all that much. I'm looking for something that I can put stuff in without it flying around all over the place in the bed. I mean I really can't put anything back there without hearing it hill the walls when I brake or accelerate. I have ARE LSII so anything I look at much be low enough to fit under the lid. Any of you guys know if the low profile tool box, the big one that fits at the back of the bed, would that fit under an ARE LSII?

I really like the idea shown above, it's just I'd rather not drill into the bed. I have a rhino liner and that would void any warranties and I'm worried about rust (live in MN).

Duke

 

The one that I have, the low-pro against the bed wall, should fit under your cover fine. It dips in about 1/2 inch below the top of the bed and that notch in back should clear any of the hardware used for mounting. But I would go to a truck shop and test fit one first just to make sure. And with mine you also have to drill into the bed, but rust shouldn't be a problem. Just cover the screws in silicone before you install them.

 

Unless you ask the Rhino dealer that put it in, if there is a way to re coat the area after the install ?? I have no idea, I don't have a spray in liner.

As for rust, once I drilled the holes, I painted them, let dry, and then installed the box, then covered the SS bolts with under coating. I don't think I m going to get any rust with the holes. Painted and then sealed down.

Good luck finding something that will stay in place without drilling, if it has to reside below the rail ( the place to use J hooks )

 

How much are a set of J-Hooks to do the install?

Just curious, what is everyone paying for their low-pro USW boxes?

 

I got some J-bolts from the local ACE Hardware...~$1 a piece...I used 5/16in vice the 1/4in ones that were supplied, plus the ones that were supplied were 2in too short. Make sure you get a big fender washer for inside the box...that way you'll be able to tighten the nut more without distorting the inside of the box.

I got the UWS TB-66 (not low profile, but the box does not block any of the back window, at least from the rearview mirrow point of view) for $367. Ordered it from the local truck supply store..

R/
Craig