2004 - 2008 F-150

Fabtech 6" Installed, LOSING CV BEARINGS!

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  #46  
Old 03-28-2006, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Ford
22) Compress the integrated wheel end disconnect on the bench to collapse the vacuum chamber.

23) While the integrated wheel end disconnect is collapsed, install a vacuum cap on the vacuum port.

CAUTION: Do not install the integrated wheel end disconnect in the knuckle. It must be installed on the outer constant velocity joint housing.

24) Install the integrated wheel end disconnect on the outer constant velocity joint housing.

25) Install the halfshaft in the vehicle.
Did you do this in this order when you reassembeled everything? The IWE (Integrated Wheel End) must be compressed, capped, and installed on the axleshaft first... then you can remove the vacuum caps. If you don't do this in this order the PVH will not be positioned properly to turn 4X4 on and off.
 

Last edited by baja150; 03-28-2006 at 07:53 PM.
  #47  
Old 03-28-2006, 08:05 PM
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Easy fix for this is but a vaccum pump and connect to each of the IWE's (one at a time)and pull a vacuum around 20" and see if it holds for about 10 min or so.(hook up to the larger port, the smaller port is your vent) Also check the lines at the soleniond and the IWE's to see if you are getting vacuum, you might of pinch the line during the install. If vacuum is good and the IWE's are holding vacuum, then disconnect the half shaft form the steering knuckles and reinstall per the instructions the baja posted.
BTW I don't think those ***** are from your half shafts youwould of know if you broke them during the lift install.
 
  #48  
Old 03-28-2006, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by baja150
Did you do this in this order when you reassembeled everything? The IWE (Integrated Wheel End) must be compressed, capped, and installed on the axleshaft first... then you can remove the vacuum caps. If you don't do this in this order the PVH will not be positioned properly to turn 4X4 on and off.
the instructions say nothing about this so unfortunately I didn't. Took a trip to the Ford dealership and all the techs were gone, on the way home we got high centered
 
  #49  
Old 03-28-2006, 08:32 PM
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high centered?
 
  #50  
Old 03-28-2006, 08:47 PM
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Sorry to here about all your bad luck josiah. Have you heard anything on the wheels yet?
 
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Old 03-28-2006, 08:51 PM
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I'm looking at the directions right now and they say nothing of this (Fabtech's). Those directions you posted aren't very clear, can someone elaborate. Are you absolutely positive this has to be done, I'm definitely willing to try it but I'm a little confused about what has to be done.

Eric, I have called Discount Tire and they did not get back to me like they said they would this morning. They were supposed to call Mazzi and call me early this morning. I have the worst luck, should have known about this going into it. You think the kit would be the hardest part, but it's learning to deal with the frustration I find the most difficult, especially when I have college riding on this.
 

Last edited by Josiah; 03-28-2006 at 09:03 PM.
  #52  
Old 03-28-2006, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Josiah
I'm looking at the directions right now and they say nothing of this (Fabtech's). Those directions you posted aren't very clear, can someone elaborate. Are you absolutely positive this has to be done, I'm definitely willing to try it but I'm a little confused about what has to be done.
It's the last few steps in the PDF I emailed you.
 
  #53  
Old 03-28-2006, 10:27 PM
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I didn't do it when I installed my lift, but I didn't get any problems. Just check for vacuum at the IWE's You probably just broke a connection somewhere when pulling on the vacuum line. both IWE's come from a common line, This might be your problem. If everything is bolted up tight you shouldn't need to tear it apart.
 
  #54  
Old 03-28-2006, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by baja150
Did you do this in this order when you reassembeled everything? The IWE (Integrated Wheel End) must be compressed, capped, and installed on the axleshaft first... then you can remove the vacuum caps. If you don't do this in this order the PVH will not be positioned properly to turn 4X4 on and off.

I have done both IWE's and yes, compressing them makes them easier to install. However, it has nothing to do with positioned properly. When the motor is running, the truck is in 2wd, there is vacuum to the hubs. The same line goes to both hubs. When you switch to 4wd, the vacuum is released. So there is nothing to be in order between the hubs. Hey, are the rubber lines installed right? There is a big and small barb on the IWE. The multi hose (2lines) could be put on backwards if you forced it by mistake. This would dump the vacuum.
 
  #55  
Old 03-28-2006, 10:48 PM
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Josiah,

Just remove your front driveshaft and test your truck again. You dont need to take anything apart to remove the front driveshaft. you can take it out without removing anything else. This way you can drive the truck with out the front driveshaft in and see what its like. I have a feeling this will remove your vibration and such. Now if your vaccum is proper than your halfshafts will still spin and your truck will still be in 4x4 persay but your front driveshaft wont be there to spin which i have a feeling is causing the vibrations (due to not being key/rebalanced. which mine did before i cut mine).

i amd just thinking this might be any easier test than tearing down the front end again..
 
  #56  
Old 03-28-2006, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bushtree
Josiah,

Just remove your front driveshaft and test your truck again. You dont need to take anything apart to remove the front driveshaft. you can take it out without removing anything else. This way you can drive the truck with out the front driveshaft in and see what its like. I have a feeling this will remove your vibration and such. Now if your vaccum is proper than your halfshafts will still spin and your truck will still be in 4x4 persay but your front driveshaft wont be there to spin which i have a feeling is causing the vibrations (due to not being key/rebalanced. which mine did before i cut mine).

i amd just thinking this might be any easier test than tearing down the front end again..
Yeah, I thought of doing this. I will try that out tomorrow and if it doesn't work I'm taking it in. I might be able to get a discount as a friend's parents run a tow truck company so hopefully I can get it hauled up on a flatbed and taken to a city nearby. Is there anyway I can tell the shop I don't want to go above a certain price ($200) to have this fixed without making them go all the way to 200? I am trying to find a clever way to make sure this can be fixed in that price range, should be less but you never know.

Both rubber lines are connected on both sides. If that is the harshness I will have while in 4wd, then I'm definitely having it rebalanced and keyed.

Thanks for the help guys, you're going above and beyond.
 

Last edited by Josiah; 03-28-2006 at 11:33 PM.
  #57  
Old 03-28-2006, 11:44 PM
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Oh man Josiah. This whole project has been going south! What a horrible string of events. I sure hope you can get everything figured out, and at a price that's less than what you could have paid a professional to install it.
Looks like if I ever decide to lift my truck I definitely won't be doing it myself. I even have the tools, but not the patience. I would have driven that truck off a bridge by now.
Hang in there buddy!
 
  #58  
Old 03-28-2006, 11:57 PM
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Take it to a place that will give you a free estimate and tell them not to do any work before they call you with the price. If it doesn't sound right don't let them do it.
 
  #59  
Old 03-29-2006, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by baja150
Take it to a place that will give you a free estimate and tell them not to do any work before they call you with the price. If it doesn't sound right don't let them do it.
You're right, getting the truck over there is going to be a problem, especially for an estimate. I think the first shop I take it to will be my only option (tow truck fees)

Thanks a lot Tard!
 
  #60  
Old 03-29-2006, 12:00 AM
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Yep my vibrations in 4x4 were Horrible untell i keyed my front driveshaft. it had horible vibrations up to about 15-18mph then any faster than that and they seems to go away.

If you take the truck in ask them to take a look at it and see whats wrong.. They should take a look at it/test drive it and then give you an estimate for free. That way you know what the price will be before they start the work.

I dont know many places that will just do all the work and then flip you the bill without giving you an estimate first..
 


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