transmission temp gauge?
#31
06-16-2005, 08:59 PM
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BTW, I wasn't able to use the sender that came with my AutoMeter SportComp Transmission Temp Gauge because it was too long (bottomed out). I had to order the shorter sender. AutoMeter part#2259.
Just don't crank on it when you're tightening it in place. It felt "soft" and I was worried I would strip the threads. But it did tighten and hasn't leaked at all. AND I DIDN'T USE TEFLON TAPE!
(But I still think it would have fit tighter if I had)
--
Mitch
'05 SuperCrew FX4
Just don't crank on it when you're tightening it in place. It felt "soft" and I was worried I would strip the threads. But it did tighten and hasn't leaked at all. AND I DIDN'T USE TEFLON TAPE!
(But I still think it would have fit tighter if I had)--
Mitch
'05 SuperCrew FX4
#33
06-16-2005, 09:10 PM
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sence we got this thread alive again I was wandering what temp most of you guys with the transmission temp gauge were running. I haven't been on any long trips yet. just 15 minute trips to and from work. my temp hasn't gotten above 152. the temp is still riseing at 152 just curious what the rest of you are running.
#35
06-16-2005, 09:47 PM
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Here's a link to photos of where we ended up installing our trans temp gauge. I think it came out nice!! (we're going to plug the other hole with black plastic next week)
Temp Gauge Photos
--
Mitch
'05 Supercrew FX4
Temp Gauge Photos
--
Mitch
'05 Supercrew FX4
#37
07-04-2005, 09:42 PM
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had a chance to do most of the work on the guage today....mounting in the tray.....got light to work and dim thanks to some schematics sent to me but i only put two wires on....did the ground and the wire to the sending unit....apparently i have to run a wire to the "ignition switch"? what/where do i do that....everything else is hooked up and ready.....thanks.
ps. it is an autometer guage. will do pics when finally done.
ps. it is an autometer guage. will do pics when finally done.
#38
07-07-2005, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by raalden
Here's some of the pix I just added to my galleries......
Sender is on the driver side....
Check out my gallery for the interior mods I just finished. My truck is now complete. Took me two months to do what took six years on my last rig.
Latest mods include tranny temp gauge replacing 12v dash powerpoint, black door handles replace the chrome, and a strategically placed LED above the cig lighter panel. All three mods were done the same day.
(Got a single hole universal pod off ebay just in case I ran into trouble. 20 bux if you want it....)
Check out my galleries below!
Sender is on the driver side....
Check out my gallery for the interior mods I just finished. My truck is now complete. Took me two months to do what took six years on my last rig.
Latest mods include tranny temp gauge replacing 12v dash powerpoint, black door handles replace the chrome, and a strategically placed LED above the cig lighter panel. All three mods were done the same day.
(Got a single hole universal pod off ebay just in case I ran into trouble. 20 bux if you want it....)
Check out my galleries below!
#39
07-08-2005, 01:33 AM
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minus 13-
Nordskog temp gauge and sender. Remove console cover to get access to the backside of the power port. Disconnect lead on the back of the port and pull fuse to it so it doesn't arc on anything behide the dash.
Use the coin holder hole if you want to keep the power port and don't have shift-on-the-fly. You'll have to drill out the 2" lip around the inside of the hole once the port is removed to fit the gauge into the hole. The mounting hardware that comes with the gauge will hold it in place.
Put the sender in the pressure test port (NO teflon or plumber's putty!). Ground the unit near the sender and find some switched power in your fuse block for the unit. I just grounded the dimmer wire as the dimmer was too dim for me. I like bright winkie-blinkies at night.
Rinse. Repeat.
There. Beat you by one post and tied the Horrocks.
Nordskog temp gauge and sender. Remove console cover to get access to the backside of the power port. Disconnect lead on the back of the port and pull fuse to it so it doesn't arc on anything behide the dash.
Use the coin holder hole if you want to keep the power port and don't have shift-on-the-fly. You'll have to drill out the 2" lip around the inside of the hole once the port is removed to fit the gauge into the hole. The mounting hardware that comes with the gauge will hold it in place.
Put the sender in the pressure test port (NO teflon or plumber's putty!). Ground the unit near the sender and find some switched power in your fuse block for the unit. I just grounded the dimmer wire as the dimmer was too dim for me. I like bright winkie-blinkies at night.
Rinse. Repeat.
There. Beat you by one post and tied the Horrocks.
Last edited by raalden; 07-08-2005 at 01:43 AM.
#40
07-14-2005, 05:41 PM
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temp readings
normal driving my temp was about 150, just came back from a 100 camping trip with a pretty heavy trailer and mostly stayed about 190 although i did hit 210 for a short time once in a while when going up really steep grades like 8% i believe it said coming back.....the temperature outside was 90 plus degrees also.....something happened to my gauge for the ride home. wasn't working. would have loved to see the return numbers since it was 78-82 for most of the trip home.
#41
04-26-2006, 11:30 PM
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Okay.. this thing is driving me crazy... are you guys sure the correct part number is ATM-2259? in the summit catalog that shows to be a cylinder head temp sending unit? I just got off the phone with them and they can't seem to come up with anything. I got the long sending unit with my gauge and it bottoms out bad.... then I ordered what I thought was the short unit from Summit and of course, got the long one again... so can anyone give me a definate part number and a place where I can order the dog gone thing from? is this something I can get down the street from NAPA or something?? someone help please....
