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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 08:37 AM
  #46  
FX4ME2's Avatar
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From: S.E. Michigan
Originally Posted by patshea098
what happens if you ste them on the concrete?
Nothing, it's an old wisetale.....
 
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 08:50 AM
  #47  
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From: Mandeville, La
Originally Posted by patshea098
what happens if you ste them on the concrete?
People think that if you set a battery on concrete, it drains and then destroys the battery. Concrete is conductive. The drain assoiciated wiht a battery sitting idle is partially due to the dirt that collects on the top. The dirt is conductive and will flow a small amount of current over time and drain the battery. Be prepared for a lot of argument on this statement. I have seen the dirt conduct voltage by using a voltmeter and putting a lead on one post and another lead near the opposite post and getting a voltage reading.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 09:01 AM
  #48  
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From: S.E. Michigan
Originally Posted by Impact9
I have a question on the regulators on the aftermarket alternators. If the wrong regulator is used could it drain the battery with the truck not running?

Reason I am asking is that my truck battery keeps dying if it's not started everyday. I'm on my 2nd optima red top in 4 months and my alternator is a custom 250A from excessive amperage. I have my stereo and alarm system disconnected so that is out of the question. Autozone tested my battery and alternator and they look fine.

Thanks guys!
This was how i used to find electrical drains on older cars, not sure if it will work on these new ones but its worth a try. First turn everything electrical off, Disconnect the ground on the batterie and put a test light between the cable and the batterie post. If it lights up bright, you have a draw. Some times it may have a very dim light that might be normal. (like a clock, or the blinking LED light) The trick is locating it. You will have to pull fuses, one at a time to find out which circuit turns off the light. You can start with the fuse box and any relays under the hood first. Then you will have to stand on your head with the door closed to check the ones inside due to the location of the fuse box inside. Sometimes the draw may be in the altenator, or starter if it has a constant power supply to it. I would do the test light test and start disconnecting anything that was aftermarket first, like the amps. And it means disconnecting them at the batterie, pulling the fuses on the amps might not disconnect the power completely. It still could have a stray wire or something inside the amp shorting out. Happy hunting.....
 
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 07:33 PM
  #49  
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From: Wichita KS
Originally Posted by BestNTx
Sounds like you have something drawing energy from somewhere. Do you have a radar detector, or any accessories that are drawing power. Also when you are changing your batteries out your not setting them on the concrete are you?
I have a radar detector but it shouldn't be enough to kill a redtop in 24 hours. I'm can't get back to work my truck for about 2 weeks. I had my wife disconnect my stereo system and it was still draining. I'll try the test light soon as I return home.

Thanks guys!
 
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 12:04 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Ssanders92120
I figured i'd chime in since since I just went through the same ordeal in upgrading the alternator in my 04 Scab. If your lights dim while you play your stereo and your car is running, then you need to upgrade your alternator. If you are able to pull more amps than your alternator is putting out, then no matter what a battery doesn't solve the problem. All it does is buy you a little more time until it gets drained down. By purchasing a 200amp upgraded alternator, your battery will always be charging when the motor is running, even if you have your A/C on high, stereo blaring, and your brights on.
If you do decide to go with an upgraded alternator, just make sure and let the company who is going to make your alternator know that the correct regulator for your alternator is a "F602" There are 4 regulators that Ford uses on the 6G alternator right now and it was a huge issue for me to find the right one. PA Performance gave up after I sent back 2 alternators because they didn't work. The place that finally was able to supply me with the correct working alternator was Wrangler NW Power Products. www.wranglernw.com Part #200-295 (200 Amp) Check out there site, they have a lot of cool products for our trucks.
If you would like to read up on the alternator and all the different regulators go here http://195.125.241.148//support/flyer/fl0602.htm It has alot of useful information.
How did you find out the other 2 alternators weren't the right ones? Or how do you know which regulator is in it? Reason I ask is, I replaced my battery (Diehard gold) and alt. (Autozone $200 lifetime warr.) and the battery light is still on. It is charging at 14.2V when it's running and I noticed the idle RPM are up to almost 850-900 in drive. PLease help. Thanks
 
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 11:13 PM
  #51  
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What are the symptoms of the wrong regulator? Please.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 12:21 AM
  #52  
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From: NM
One misconception is how much current the amps will draw during typical operation. For almost the entire time, they may be consuming a very small amount of power. During the peak "slams", they may indeed draw high current, but not as much as I believe has been stated. Most amplifiers have exaggerated peak power output, which translates into exaggerated peak power consumption.

However, if your lights are dimming, you are indeed drawing more than your alternator/battery reserve can supply for that moment. As others have stated, protect your truck's computer and be sure you have enough capacity with some to spare.

Lee
 
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 06:15 PM
  #53  
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Exclamation

MooseRLP... So this means I should be able to just put in a Optima Yellow Top Battery. Right?

Sorry about reviving this dead thread but I was doing a search on experiences with Powermaster alternators.

Unless strapped for cash, choosing to upgrade the battery over the alternator and vice versa may not be the best choice. They should be thought of as part of a system rather than independent components. When the draw on the alternator is more than its output the battery will eventually run down leaving the alternator straining. Run a system everyday like that for 6 months and the alternator will fail. Deep-cycle batteries will allow complete battery drain and recharge without battery failure but are by themselves not a "stronger" batteries. Yellow Tops are not batteries on steroids which will help "boost" the alternator's performance or anything like that. Similarly, a high-output alternator might yield a higher output but will not increase the charge held by the battery.

It's best, and more expensive of course, to upgrade both components.
 

Last edited by LeanNCut; Apr 2, 2008 at 06:17 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 09:56 PM
  #54  
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From: Rhode Island
A Ford CVPI Cruiser has the 200 AMP alternator in it......powers the light bar,computer,siren, & multiple radios & scanners..........
 
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 03:17 AM
  #55  
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From: Broward County, FL
Originally Posted by Impact9
I have a radar detector but it shouldn't be enough to kill a redtop in 24 hours. I'm can't get back to work my truck for about 2 weeks. I had my wife disconnect my stereo system and it was still draining. I'll try the test light soon as I return home.

Thanks guys!
Yeah, I leave my radar detector on over night a lot of times, it still fires up perfectly normal and i have had no electrical problems yet.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 04:04 AM
  #56  
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From: Wichita KS
Wow old thread. I found out my problem about a year ago. The head rest monitors I had came with a 3 wire setup. One ground, one power, and one switched. I didn't run the switched source but tired it to the power. Big mistake. That would drain the battery in 2 days pretty easy. Then along with that when a red top goes dead it adds to the problem. So lesson #2 Never buy a red top- yellow or blues only.
 
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