1st post, tried to research but I'm a little unsure on how to proceed. I have 3/4 of a tank in a 2002 F 150 that has sat for 2 yrs and wasn't being driven much before it was parked. Eventually managed to syphon 1 qt with a red rubber air hose and fuel was pretty dark. No go with garden hose or cheap narrow diameter syphon hose but I was just touching fuel with those hoses. Ended up kinking cheap little syphon hose so it buckles under pressure now. Based on what I've read, there is an anti-syphon/spillage prevention device either in the lower part of the filler hose or at the tank. I've read about placing a jumper on an electrical thingee and attaching a hose to the fuel line at the engine and also read you can just attach a hose to the fuel line closer to the tank and use the ignition system to activate the fuel pump but the pump only runs for 10 seconds or so this way.


Truck is 6 hrs away from home and once there, driving into town to buy stuff takes an hr so I want a solid plan A and plan B next time I tackle this. Lot's of other deferred maintenance at the home to catch up on... It is girlfriends recently deceased mothers truck which has been garaged since day 1 and has 43,000 miles on it so I don't want to screw up. Hoping to get 10 to 15 gallons of fuel out and adding 10 gallons of high test and changing oil before starting.


I can probably figure out how to attach a jumper to activate the fuel pump but I'm a little chicken about trying it. I used to work on stuff out of necessity when I was young and poorer but things were simpler 35 - 40 years ago... Will it take too long to just use the ignition switch to pump 10 to 15 gallons? I'd rather syphon. Can I push a hose past the anti syphon thingee w/o screwing things up. Don't mind spending some money on parts. Could I buy a universal electric fuel pump (if they are still affordable) and connect it to the fuel line and a battery and pump out tank w/o hurting truck fuel pump? Anything else I should address besides fresh fuel, oil, and battery?


Thanks,

Jim

 

If the fuel looks nasty, you should drop the tank. There's no easy way to get the fuel out without doing that unless you poke a hole in the bottom of the tank.

I might take a chance - dump a few bottles of ISO-HEET into the tank, pick up a couple fuel filters, and try to start it and drive the fuel out.

 

Thanks. Having replacement fuel filters avail is a good idea. I was considering an additive named PRI which appears to restore old fuel. I watched some video's where it was used successfully on small engines. I just don't know anything about fuel injection stuff. If I try running "bad gas" am I risking screwing up the injectors or other stuff or if I try running the old fuel and it doesn't work, is everything fine with the truck motor after correcting the bad fuel issue? I tend to take a conservative approach when messing around with someone else's stuff especially the GF's stuff.

 

Put a couple bottles of Gumout with PEA in the tank. Disconnect the fuel line before the filter. Power up the pump and pump it empty. You many have to jumper power to the pump. My wild idea.

 

why drop the tank, why not just undo the fuel filter line and add a hose there to a fuel can and let the in tank pumps do their job?


also unless it’s tuned for higher 87 octane is the way to go...

 

it’s a proven idea, and cycling the key works

 

Thank you. I was concerned about whether it would be practical to pump 15 gallons or so by turning the key on to power the pump. I don't know what the cutoff point is but if it pumps like a cup each cycle... Any guesses on how long the pump runs and/how much gas is pumped each time you turn the key? Thanks again.

 

I just noticed you suggested 87 octane. I was thinking of using higher octane to "make up" for the lower octane of the remaining old fuel. However, I think I understand. Thanks.

 

I did a lot of unsuccessful searching before posting here but I finally stumbled across what I think were appropriate U-tube searches. From the example I saw, cycling the key would not pump enough fuel each cycle to make it practical to remove significant amounts of fuel. Cycling key 4 or 5 times might get 8 to 10 oz of fuel. I found what I think are two more practical approaches:

1. There are siphon kits that use a larger diameter hose that is inserted through the filler neck until it bottoms out near the fuel tank. Then a stiff, narrower diameter hose with an angled tip is inserted through the larger diameter hose and it hopefully slips past whatever blocks the larger diameter hose at the newer vehicle fuel tank. Might need to work it/rotate it to get into tank. Siphon away. If you have a really new truck with an easy fill system (no gas cap), there is a special funnel stored in the truck somewhere that you insert in the filler neck first.

2, Pull the fuel pump relay, the connections may be marked (+, -) but test them with a voltmeter (12.6 volts if your battery is good) and install a jumper. Remove schrader valve (same valve used on air valves on tires) at test port on fuel rail at engine. Fuel line could be under pressure especially if engine was run recently so be careful and mindful of hazards - engine should be cold, do outdoors, fire extinguisher handy, etc. Secure appropriate diameter tubing where you removed valve and secure other end in empty gas can. Turn on key w/o engaging starter. Keep an eye on things (especially where you connected hose to fuel rail port) and don't overflow gas can.

Disclaimer - I haven't done this yet and I am not responsible for anything if you try this and things don't work out well for you.

Thanks again to those who responded with suggestions. Good Luck.

PS I decided to remove all the fuel instead of 3/4 of it and use 87 octane for the fresh fuel rather than high test so I don't confuse the computer any more than necessary as the battery was dead for an extended period and I recall seeing something in the owners manual about the computer needing to relearn some tuning stuff if the battery was disconnected. Sure do miss the simplicity of my old 59 Ford F100 or even my early 70's F100.

 

There will still be liquid in the bottom of the tank when you get done, I'd strongly advise a few bottles of ISO-HEET with the fresh gas. I'd bet most of that liquid left will be water.

I think I would remove the fuel filter and get the gas out that way instead of pumping all that crap through the filter and up into the fuel rail.

EDIT: Another recommendation - the fuel pump needs to be immersed in fuel for proper cooling. When the gauge gets down near E and the low fuel light comes on, shut it off and let it cool down for a while. Then you can continue, pumping small amounts out and letting it cool again before resuming.

 

Thank you. Good suggestions.

I knew the fuel pump was cooled by the gas but didn't think about it being immersed in the tank contributing to the cooling. Makes sense. The only electric fuel pump I ever had experience with was an aftermarket one I mounted on the firewall of 72 Chevy LUV some 38 years ago...

 

Don't forget to have a few fire extinguishers near by!

 

Many vehicles have a baffle screen in the neck of the tank to prevent you from putting a siphon hose into the tank.

I had a Toyota Previn that sat for a couple of years. That resting period destroyed the vehicle. I had seals that deteriorated. This included foam seals in the heating and A/C duct and vent.

The gas in the tank stunk up the mechanic’s shop so bad that they had to open all doors and run fans to tolerate the smell. They dropped the tank and were dumping sludge and what looked like “calcified” deposits that were breaking free from the bottom of the tank. After multiple purge cycles, they could not get the flushing water to come out clear. I finally paid for an aftermarket polypropylene tank. It was cheaper than continuing to pay labor to clean the OEM tank. I am not sure it could have gotten totally clean, and the last thing I wanted was for a piece of the “hardened sludge” to break free later and clog my pump.

I would not recommend putting any “gum out” into the mix and running it through the pump. I believe you are risking pump issues with that route.

If I ever have to let a vehicle sit for extended periods, I will at least run the tank dry. Then maybe add a qt of non-ethanol every month and run it dry each time.

Hope this is helpful.

 

My two cents, 2 years is nothing. Just drive it. Check the fuel filter after. I have driven cars that sat over 6 years without issue. They sure did run better one I got some fresh fuel in them though.

 

And I firmly believe that a couple bottles of Gumout with PEA will help. When I put it in my old motorcycle it helped clean the tank indicated by the fuel looking black in the gas line. It did have a filter in the line. And my 150hp fuel injected 2 stroke outboard on my boat developed a miss from the old gas clogging up a fuel injector I think. After I put a couple bottles of Gumout for high mileage engines with PEA in the gas tank, the miss cleared up pdq.