I think we have similar trucks....02 scab with 35"s 2" body lift, mild torsion bar crank and 3" blocks in rear (removed the factory 1 1/2 blocks ...suspension limiting) but also dropped the snubbers 1" in the rear.
I added a single RANCHO steering stabilizer to mine. Simple and effective. I had zero issues before and zero now!!!
Only reason for adding it was when we go on the trail.....sometimes you catch a rock and darn near break your fingers due to the steering rapid turn.... Problem solved!

If your truck in wandering.....i would certainly check the ball Joints as they die young on these with a lift.

 

Maybe our trucks look similar, but I don't have a body lift, I have a dropdown front lift. all suspension. I have either a 3 or 4" rear lift block, AND the factory bumpstop block in the rear.

 

there is ALOT to be said about tires when we start talking 35"...... some are more "flat ttreaded" like BFG's ( but dayum they ride good) the "aggressive AT's" seem toalways have some issue...be it ride sux, noisy or get choppy evey 1000 miles.
I would suggest a visit to a front end shop ...not the local idiots who barely know wtf caster is much less what it does to ride quality.... but most any reputable 4x4 shop to dial in your front end. Since your lift is via suspension i would bet there is some "tuning" that can be found there. Dumb ? obviously you probably already have the cam bolts for the upper control arms?

 

Is there a good "off-road" shop in your area? I would consider a shop that works mostly on Jeeps, trucks, and 4X4. Not the local mechanic at the corner gas station. And unless your local dealership is Galpin, most dealership techs are only trained on OEM, not aftermarket.

 

not any good 4x4 shops I know of. I live in the SF Bay Area, home to the most liberal, tree huggers around..... NO ONE in my neighborhood has a truck like mine.... Well, my neighbor does have an 01 Screw, but it's stock. (he is actually not a liberal tree hugger....

 

lil tire shop down the street actually. NOT a truck shop....just actually has a couple GOOD mechanics! It's NOT rocket science BUT...obviously gotta be a MECHANIC to comprehend hte relationship between components AND understand HOW to achieve them. Either they get it or THEY DON'T.

 

I actually know a little bit about alignments, been years though.. I used to work @ Wheel Works, and have been around the block a few times.... usually they don't even mess with caster or camber..... toe is what will eat your tires up in a couple hundred miles, unless it's really bad.... like the good old ford ttb when lifted

 

I am in The City. Jackson Square. I am right across the street from Immigration and Customs Enforcement.

In Oakland & San Jose, there are 4WheelParts.com stores. Controversial at best. Some people say that it's like going to the McDonald's of the off-road world. Since they are a part of TransAmerican Auto, they will do their best to sell their affiliated lines. Some say that their techs aren't that good. Some say that they do good work. I wouldn't look to them to do engine or transmission work. You've probably got a shop for simple service work already, like oil change, brakes, et cetera. But I would start there with suspension. Before you go, do a little homework, and go with a list of questions.

Check out both locations. While a guy at one shop may be an idiot, the guy at the other shop may be really good.

CALIFORNIA

4 Wheel Parts Oakland #12

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I actually know quite a bit about vehicles, I did alignments. I replace my own suspension components, do my own oil changes, all fluid changes, do my own brakes, have swapped engines, done body lifts, swapped clutches, transmissions, axles, I can weld, done motor swaps. Currently build cars at Tesla as a level 2 production associate on the model s and x, and moonlight on the model 3.

I don't trust shops, and especially not 4WP.. the only ones that would be close are SJ or Oakland and both are about 30 minutes drive away. I have been to both, and not impressed at all. Their techs are high school kids that really have no clue or brand new graduates from UTI....

 

Revisiting this. What brand should I go with. Parts replaced and Got an alignment done.

 

any reputable brand should do the job.....it's just a speed control device on the center link....nothing more. BUT....you will have to remove the bolts in your idler arm as that is what hold the mount. Also be sure you have the shock at HALF travel...when your wheels are STRAIGHT....then clamp it on. Takes longer to remove the skid plate than it does to mount up the stableizer..
45 min job.
recommend making 2 sharpie marks on your idler arm BEFORE you remove the bolts....to ensure it doesn't get tooo lost when you re-assemble.

 

What do you mean the idler bolts will get too lost when I reassemble?

Going to be buying stuff on rock auto

Should I just get the standard kit with studs on both ends? Or pay the extra and get the rancho kit with eyelets on ends?

 

when you remove the idler arm bolts....the idler arm may or may NOT move since the only thing holding it in location is the center link (with all movable joints). There is a fair amount of clearance between the mounting bolts and the thru holes. Since you just had it aligned you would NOT want to reposition the idler arm from where it was. It is a good idea to put a mark on top of idler to frame and side of idler to frame as reference points so when you reassemble (add the stabilizer mount) you can see that you have NOT moved the idler much from where it WAS previously positioned
I went RANCHO ...but thats what my shocks are. Didn't realize they had different ones. I would recommend eyelets just easier to work with.

 

hmmmm...... do the rancho ends up being like $150 where the others end up being half of that.....

the rancho does bolt on top of the idler bolts, but the others do not appear that way.......

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...4640&jsn=14089

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...4640&jsn=14090


rancho: (the rancho does look more robust)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...4640&jsn=18451

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...4640&jsn=18450




EDIT: I said screw it and just got the rancho with the 7000mt shock

 

Got it, now just need to put it on. Also need to get like a 90* elbow to get grease into the idler arm

The shock is a rs7401 of the rs7000 series. It is chrome and has a black boot, with eyelets and not studs like the other steering stabilizer shocks I saw