I recently bought a 2000 f150 5.4 triton. I was getting atrocious gas mileage so I decided to do a tune up. I was changing the plugs and got to number 3 (3rd back drivers side). The coil pack was completely stuck to the point where I had to spray wd40 and yank it out. The coil and boot was about an inch shorter that the rest. I finally got the plug out and it had a non fouler attached. I never saw this before. I tried to thread a new plug in without the non fouler but it would not thread in. So I put the old plug and non fouler back in and moved on. What does this mean? Should I be worried? Can a put a standard, longer coil pack on and just jam it down? The truck runs, shifts and idles well. It just has bad mpg (like 9). Any advice would be great. Thanks.

 

I wonder if the "non fouler" is a different thread? I would imagine if you pulled it and took it to a machine shop they could determine what it's thread size is. If it is different they sell a "threadsert" that can fix that. (there's a specific type, I can't recall it's name, that is preferred. One of the other members may be able to tell you). Otherwise it might be cross-threaded and could just need to be chased with a tap. (a dab of grease on the tap will keep any shavings from getting in the cylinder)
FWIW that's just my knee-jerk reaction, maybe someone else has another idea, good luck!

 

That is exactly what the guy at advance auto said. We held the plug and nonfouler side by side and the size and pitch look the same. I got a thread chaser but the socket that it uses (13/16) would not fit in the spark plug well. I tried to install the new plug in the nonfouler but the plug was too small. Unless I get advice saying that it is definitely not a good idea to leave it as is, I think I'm going to leave it. I'm not getting a check engine light or code, but my mpg is so bad that it's making me wonder if my diagnostic system is messed up.

 

My 03 averages around 10mpg, mostly city driving, so I don't know that you're getting really bad mileage.
As for the nonfouler, I'm pretty sure the consensus will be that they aren't good for your engine electronics. They're sort of a band-aid from the past when ignition systems were simpler and sturdier.
As I said before, there are guys here with more knowledge on Ford's electronics and so on. I'm curious now, as well, to see what other info will be offered on your issue.

 

Are you sure it's a non fouler and not a helicoil inserted due to a blown out plug?

 

Motorcraft actually sold a repair kit that looks like a non fouler

 

I'm not sure that it's not a helicoil. Until yesterday I had never heard of a nonfouler. I really wish that I had taken a picture and I don't want to tempt fate by taking it back out. But you may be right because I can't figure out why a new plug wouldn't thread in. The previous owner may have screwed up the threads and this was his solution. It has a shorter coil and boot to compensate for the plug sitting up higher. I think I'm just gonna leave it alone.

Any suggestions regarding bad mpg? I'm doing plugs, O2 sensors and fuel filter. The truck was running cold so I replaced the thermostat. I'm worried about bad cats but there's no check engine lights or codes.

 

It's not a non-fouler, it's one of those cheap auto parts store thread repair kits. Helicoil, as well as others, make them, they sell for around $35-40.

See http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplugblowout.html

 

I would determine if it is for sure some type of repair for a blowen plug and then remove it, get a Timecert kit and fix it permanently. That plug may be the source of your mpg problem.

 

You guys are definitely right. I did some googling and found that dorman sells exactly what I pulled out along with the shorter coil. I don't have the ability or confidence to do the time sert repair myself. How much would a mechanic charge for something like that?

 

Where are you located?

 

Not knowing where you are located, around here in Wi most shops charge about $75-100hr for labor. Consider that most places will charge you at least an hour, plus the parts.

 

I live in Pittsburgh pa. I saw that the kits are several hundred dollars. Would the mechanic use one of these or machine the actual head? If he uses the kit would he charge me for the kit?

 

You would only be charged for the insert, not the entire kit. If it's a reputable shop they probably already have the tools in the kit.
Here's a link to what you should be paying for:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...GEF99C54V05N1F

This MAY NOT be the exact one your truck will need, and the price they charge for it will likely be more. You'll also obviously be paying for their time as well

 

If it already has an insert, you will probably need a BigSert.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JTITL7W

Note that we have a couple members who rent the Timesert kit - one of whom has posted in this thread. The insert is done with the head on the engine, not removed, and is not very labor intensive. I don't know if they also have the BigSert installation kit, but I know they have the standard kit.