Shudder between 50-60mph?
Shudder between 50-60mph?
Im planning a 2hr trip in 2 weeks and behold my truck started acting up. I really only notice a slight shudder like im running over small rumble strips around 50-60mph. It doesn't shake violently but its enough to **** me off. I have no CEL and it does it when in OD and out of OD. If im cruising and slightly left of the throttle I can get it to shudder a bit. Gears shift fine, brakes and rotors are fairly new, Trans fluids along with all other fluids have maybe 15k on them, idles fine, if I am up to speed and mash the gas it does it as well. I just replace the COPs maybe 20k ago as it shows no sign of it being one of those going bad. Could it possibly be bad fuel or EGR issues? Id like to try to find this before my trip in 2 weeks. Any help appreciated!
Im planning a 2hr trip in 2 weeks and behold my truck started acting up. I really only notice a slight shudder like im running over small rumble strips around 50-60mph. It doesn't shake violently but its enough to **** me off. I have no CEL and it does it when in OD and out of OD. If im cruising and slightly left of the throttle I can get it to shudder a bit. Gears shift fine, brakes and rotors are fairly new, Trans fluids along with all other fluids have maybe 15k on them, idles fine, if I am up to speed and mash the gas it does it as well. I just replace the COPs maybe 20k ago as it shows no sign of it being one of those going bad. Could it possibly be bad fuel or EGR issues? Id like to try to find this before my trip in 2 weeks. Any help appreciated!
If you want to clear the shudder, find the faulty coil.
The other codes are for 1460 is a wide open A/C control circuit failure.
B1450 and B1467 are body codes.
C1284 indicates oil pressure switch failure.
Good luck.
The other codes are for 1460 is a wide open A/C control circuit failure.
B1450 and B1467 are body codes.
C1284 indicates oil pressure switch failure.
Good luck.
I'll second Bluegrass' diagnosis as "likely." This sounds almost exactly like the symptoms I had in my '99 when a coil was failing. It eventually set a code indicating which one was bad. You *might* be able to identify the culprit coil by disconnecting them one at a time at idle. Good ones will drop the RPM. When you hit the bad one, nothing will change. This only works, though if it's actually bad, not just weak.
Andy
Andy
If a coil is actually that bad, it will trip a CEL with a code.
How many miles on what brand plugs? What brand coils did you use?
How many miles on what brand plugs? What brand coils did you use?
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I have motocraft plugs and araparts coils. Both have around 20k maybe on them. I got to dig around the truck today to see what was the culprit. Come to find out it was a u-joint! Shudder is gone now. I will say the way it was acting it did indeed seem like a coil was going bad.
Thanks for telling us what the issue was. I had a u-joint go bad in my 94 F150 4x4 with a vibration at the speeds you are talking about but I could tell that is was a drive train issue and not the engine.
Glad you found the problem, and glad you posted it. I, too, had a u-joint fail, but rather than being loose, it was siezed in one axis. The "shake the drive shaft test" was a misleading false negative in this case. The failure caused a driveline vibration, but like the other poster, it was over a wider range of speeds, and was obviously mechanical in nature.
Andy
P. S. I'd rather change a u-joint than a couple of those coils.
Andy
P. S. I'd rather change a u-joint than a couple of those coils.






