You have to remove the intake manifold to make room for the engine to clear the cowl. So when you have the 97 intake off compare it to the 00 intake. It should not have the 2 sensors like your 97 does. So to keep things simple use the 97 manifold.

 

Yea, I'd get just the intake gaskets from Ford. You don't have to order anything special, - just an intake gasket set for a "97" 4.6L. Has to be a 97 because Ford moved location pins around a lot throughout the different model years. And if there's any revisions, you'll get them this way. You should replace the lower intake gasket as well. I believe it's a kit and you get both upper and lower anyway. You'll also need a new plenum gasket (lower throttle body elbow gasket), since the intake is aluminum and uses a one time form fit type gasket. You should get a thermostat as well, -only use a 192 or 194 degree stat. These engines don't like anything other. Your exhaust is most likely going to be fun, - guess I'll wait and see what breaks lol.

So everything you need, order for a 97 4.6L. See, the heads that the intake mount to didn't change until 2001. The reason you don't want to use the 2000 intake is because it's missing a sensor and there's other things that may be a little different, most likely are, nothing major. Put it this way, using the 97 intake and everything that goes with, you could be saving youself a bunch of time head scratching and possibly trying to make things work. You can avoid that all together. There's no advantage using the 2000 stuff from the manifold up anyway.

You don't have to do this stuff below, -but I definitely would, -

There's some stuff I'd want to do before installing your motor. Does your buddy know how to compression test ? Well, I'd compression test that new/old engine before installing it. You can somewhat determine how healthy it is right of the bat, - and/or, if it's going to run when your done lol. I'd flush out the block as well as best I could, I would pull the oil pan and check out the oil pickup screen/clean it. I'd also do something with the heater core hard line. for instance, - replace the O-rings at the water pump stem/heater core hard line connection(it's in the block cavity below the lower intake)or modify it with a section of heater hose and eliminate the O-rings all together. Ford has done this for awhile now with their remans.

Screwing with most of that after the fact would really suck, - I mean really SUCK! You don't want to find out why, I tell yuh that right now lol.

Yea that's great! It's very easy to send procedures that way. So anything you need, just tell me and I'll send the Ford Service info.

 

I hear yah on checking that motor over but when I was driving it and only stopped driving it a month ago it ran perfect. I have no sounds, the power is way better than my 4x4. I will do some of the things you mentioned for sure along with new plugs. I am not going way into depth with it as I'm thinking I can take the old motor, put it on a stand and pick at it and learn a few things over the summer. I really appreciate all the help everyone has given me especially jbrew and ill let you know how pulling the motor goes this Saturday. Going to go over the motor once more with the stethescope and try and pin point the sound. But either way its getting swapped. It's for sure not a lifter. It's bottom end buts seems intermittent. Also why am I removing the starter? Hopefully this is not where I have loosen the torque converter bolts. Crappy spot. Ill see if I can remove the upper and lower intake in 1 go maybe. Can't hurt to try.

 

The 3 bolts holding the starter on go through the block and thread into the transmission bellhousing. There is a plug on the other side of the engine that you remove to access the torque converter bolts.

 

Your right, it's not a lifter, -since you don't have any lol. They have hydraulic lash adjusters. When they collapse, it results in lash between the rocker arm (or cam follower in this case) and the valve stem tip... Which is the same condition you get when a lifter collapses in a push rod engine.The result is a usually a tick. With the exception, I've heard lash adjusters make some strange noises in the past lol. So, no lifters, you have an SOHC Modular engine.
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I didn't know you were familiar with the engine you'll be installing. That's a big help knowing what it ran like before hand. You can skip a lot of primarily checks, you already know its going to run.

 

Thanks JMC about the starter question. I did the starter on my 2wd last winter and it friggin sucked. Yes Brew I have owned the donor truck since it was 4 years old. Its done me very good but the underbody is done. Rad support, floor trusts, and a seat base bolt just pulled through the floor so Im calling it quits for that one. Its been very good mechanically though. I dont know a whole lot about engines unless we're talking 2 strokes so sorry about the lifter usage. Ahh wish it was as easy as tightening down a rocker to get the slack out of the push rod.

 

Also, Brew, are you pretty set on it being the lash adjusters. Im still driving the truck daily and now I notice that if I step on it hard for a couple seconds then let off fully it makes that sounds then slowly calms down like a sticky lifter or I guess valve lash adjuster. It could be me but it seems like it has a loss of power once I beat on it a little bit.

 

No, I'm not positive.

Have you lost oil pressure at any point in time ? If it's a rod bearing, you'll have shavings in the oil pan and most likely crank damage, - toast.

Lash adjusters, I'd just do what I told yuh in the other thread. You have pin-point the best you can (10 bucks for a good enough stethoscope), then pop the cover.

I might even "You Tube" that one as well. You'll probably find one or more with a similar noise. Uknow, something to compare to anyway.

 

I have never noticed any drop in oil pressure. No shavings in my oil either as I replaced with new oil and lucas. No help.

Cant do the lash adj as my valve cover studs are beyond rotted and will leave me stranded haha.

Trust me man I have been googleing and youtubing this since before I even posted my probs and questions. I updated my other thread with some more info about the "knock" in the powertrain section. Its killing me. I just want to know whats happening. Either way the motor will be swapped. Pull one motor this weekend then in a couple weeks pull the other and install. Sucks its my daily driver as I wish I could pull them both and take my time and freshen the one up, clean and paint it but I cannot go without driving it for more than a weekend.

 

DON'T use Lucas in the crank case. It's snake oil for the modular. There's only one product that can help clean the internals, but still, there's better ways to do that. I realize that wasn't your intention, but there's nothing available on the market to fix internal noise or problems. Lucas will absolutely PLUG crucial pathways and starve internals of lubrication. This isn't and old style push-rod engine. It's more advanced type engine that requires 5w oil for proper lubrication under normal circumstances. Lucas, changes everything and it's all bad for these motors. You might just as well feed it metal shavings instead.

 

really, Lucas is no good? I put it in my 2000 2wd f150 about every other oil change. 7 years later and 160,000 kms and the motor runs great. Never ever had any problems with it and Im so happy with the performance it puts out still. Started prepping the motor for tomorrows pull and a friend and I spent a solid 1.5-2 hours tonite(wife had to work so time was cut very short) and Im happy with the progress. I believe you JMC about having to remove the intake but I dont think its entirely out of the question now. I have tons of room in there and looks to be about 12 inches that the motor can come forward but cant get the clutch fan off. I have the proper tools but it wont budge and yes I know the threads are reversed or left hand threaded.



check out the lower drivers side rad support or whats left of it haha.


Looks like I can slide the motor forward once mounts are unbolted. Im actually just going to sawzall the top of the rad support and pull straight out if I cant get the fan off :s

 

Positively. Keep using it then. You'll be needing another motor soon. IMO that 2000 is on borrowed time at this point.. Never use additives in the CC. The correct oil has all you'll ever need. The right oil and proper maintenance will get you well over 300,000 miles (that's miles, not kms). That's sort of a bi-law with the Modular and all it's little oil pathways/channels. You've defeated the odds so far. It still runs! For now anyway lol.

 

Place screwdriver like in image and use wrench on fan nut. You might have to reverse the location of the screwdriver because of the left hand fan nut.


Image stolen from fairlaner in this thread https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...150-4-2-a.html

 

Motor was out in just over 4 hours today with 2 buddies although is very unnecessary as 1 of us were left doing nothing near the end. Kept intake on, pulled starter, exhaust, alternator, rads, removed ac and power steering pump. Kept the tranny intact too. I removed most of it as I am going to try and part the truck out. Dang JMC on the truck I am putting the motor in I will be definately removing the intake but like you said, the 2000 does have a plastic lower but what I did notice was the upper intake manifold has an extra plug in it with a big bolt in the threads so maybe thats for the other sensor? Hopefully then I dont have to mess around too much. It really sucked though. Cant wait till the process is over. I could not get the fan nut off even with an air hammer.

jbrew I dont think my motor is going to quit anytime soon from lucas. Maybe I got a really good one . It will light the tires up from a dead stop no problem. No ticks, knocks or any kind of sounds except for that crazy whine Ive always had which I thought was the power steering pump so I changed it and it wasnt but ya. I wouldnt pay a shop to install that motor in my truck as if I actually had that money to spend I would be looking for a rebuild but if its just my friends and I and costs no money except for new gaskets then why not right.




JMC, See that bolt to the left of the other sensor on the upper intake. Second sensor spot?
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know of any good engine degreasers that I can use to clean this puppy up? Or any tips?