If you have the electrical accessories off it, this is a good time to degrease it. Seal up the intake throat and stick rags in the exhaust collectors. Put tape over all the sensor and other electrical connectors, pull the cops and tape over the plug wells and PCV grommet. Purple Power is probably one of the better degreasers out there, Walmart has it by the gallon.

 

Tire foam.

 

No problem, - just remember what I said when (IF) it happens. The engine isn't always going to let you know how much your hurting it from poisoning the liquid engineering. The crank case SHOULD be left alone.Your attempting to out smart Ford engineering with your special snake oil mix lol. The modular can take some abuse, but it WILL catch yuh and your not going to like when it does. Your putting your faith in hype.
Also, I'd NEVER purchase a rebuild. I'd have to be forced lol. A low mileage used engine is a MUCH better choice. That's been explained many times in the engine section. It's all been weighed.
I'm only trying to help, share what I do know.

 

The problem with using Lucas is it increases the viscosity. This means that when cold, it's no longer a 5W oil. If the engine is already worn and sloppy and using oil, THEN you can use it to decrease oil consumption. It's not a preventative additive, it's an additive used to (temporarily) fix a problem.

 

Hmmm, I really thought it was just to coat the moving parts inside the engine for better lubrication. I dont know what to say guys. I trust you but I have had no issues at all ever with my motor. The oil pressure has always been good too. Good to know though. I cant wait to tear into the 4x4 and pull the motor the proper way.

 

Why would we lie? Some have to learn the hard way, I understand that, but you still have a choice. You can quite making Lucas rich and screwing yourself at any point in time. I should give up. You have to believe that you are smarter than the ones who engineered/designed that engine. Otherwise, you wouldn't be changing spec. Your right, -it hasn't blown up yet, so it must be good.

 

If I didnt know any better jbrew, you really, REALLY hate Lucas lol. I know you guys wouldnt lie and I didnt say you did. Maybe they should use my motor in their commercials or photos on their banners at all the tracks haha. I dunno man. I understand what you are saying 100% completely. All Im stating is the fact that I have been using this stuff for over 7 years and Ive owned my truck for 9 years. I have never had a single problem with the motor in my truck other than a couple coils. It still has plenty of power. Frigg man with all this talk I better start knocking on wood. BL Im not saying youre a liar, youve helped me out quite about in this thread and I know Im not smarter than ford engineers but I also have no reason to knock the stuff right.

 

I don't hate Lucas.

Well, I wasn't going to mention this, but you forced it out of me. Perhaps you need to review the very post in this thread. Then ask yourself, - do I really want that to happen to this motor too?

Since THAT is such prime example.

 

So the swap is underway. The motor is ready to be pulled out of the red one first thing in the morning. One issue. I ordered the intake gasket set and it was special order apparently and would you know I ordered a 2000 intake gasket set. Is the only problem for using this gasket set is the locating pins? No place has a set in stock and I cannot get my money back from the gaskets I have now :s. Also, they verified that it came with the plenum gasket and I found out now it didnt. This is my daily driver and go figure its gonna bite me in the **** right. I have defintely learned alot in this experience and not too sure its one I want to do again but it has to be done.

 

soooo, the swap is done and done. I did not enjoy this what so ever and didn't go by the books or pdf because of course I have to be like "why would I have to take that off? Im going to leave it on". Well I learn things the hard way but atleast I have learned something. Definitely had to use the 97 intake as theres no way around that. Both lowers were plastic. KNOCK SENSORS were completely different but I kept the 2000 knock sensor in place, cut the 2000 connector and soldered and heat shrunk onto the 97 harness and it worked. Big headache and definitely not a beginners job haha. The truck runs good with no knock. Thank you guys especially Jbrew and JMC. To top it off I put the 2000 grille and bumper and it looks way better I think.