1997 - 2003 F-150

No fuel pressure

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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 11:14 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jbrew
Trust me, you have to purge the lines. I can list the threads proving this if need be. Not to mention I've had to do it myself.
Ok so I will purge the lines up to the shrader valve and any air that might be still in the sytem will be taken care of after a few days. Sounds good. Thanks
 
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 11:19 AM
  #17  
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No waiting if you purge. Here's a post where I instructed the same thing, -

https://www.f150online.com/forums/4942224-post20.html
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 03:20 PM
  #18  
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Ok fuel pump is in. Purge was successful and I have fuel to my injectors. That means my fuel pump was bad. Now the engine is cranking and not even attempting to fire. Im going to check and make sure there is power to the spark plugs but is there any special reset switch or something weird that I have to do to get this engine to come to life? I have tried spraying a little starting fluid into the throttle body and nothing happens.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 03:50 PM
  #19  
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ok there is power to the coils and power to the injectors. When I first sprayed a little starter fluid in it the motor studdered but only for a moment. Then no matter how much I sprayed in afterwards it wouldnt do anything.
 

Last edited by slick nick; Jan 16, 2013 at 04:24 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 07:11 PM
  #20  
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Not sure if your pump was bad, -unless you did what I told yuh way back. I guess it doesn't matter now. Cycle the key 6 -9 times. DO NOT START, just cycle the key and pause for 5 seconds between cycling, since either your hard of hearing or your pump isn't charging the lines. Why did you replace the pump?

This is what happens when you don't follow instruction lol. Regardless, just do that EXACTLY first and we can go from there. I don't want to get to far ahead in one post as that may of been the problem.

Try it.

 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:06 PM
  #21  
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At this point you should see if the plugs are wet with fuel after cranking.
The driver side cam sensor times fuel injection.
If you had the cam drive chains off, the injection timing may be off if they did not get back on and in time.
This is the second thread where a motor was taken apart and did not get back togather correctly.
This other thread was one head was changed and the cam/ chain was not indexed correctly.
The side untrouched ran ok. the Other side was all but missing.
He was 'lucky' not to have had the valves hit the pistons on that bank.
If you have fuel present and know there is 'spark' not just power to the coils; it's the only possibility left since the motor did show signs of life..
Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 10:22 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jbrew
Not sure if your pump was bad, -unless you did what I told yuh way back. I guess it doesn't matter now. Cycle the key 6 -9 times. DO NOT START, just cycle the key and pause for 5 seconds between cycling, since either your hard of hearing or your pump isn't charging the lines. Why did you replace the pump?

This is what happens when you don't follow instruction lol. Regardless, just do that EXACTLY first and we can go from there. I don't want to get to far ahead in one post as that may of been the problem.

Try it.

Read Post #18. I followed your instructions and they worked. I was able to remove the air from the fuel rail and I turned the key to the on position and the off position several times and it worked.
Originally Posted by Bluegrass
At this point you should see if the plugs are wet with fuel after cranking.
The driver side cam sensor times fuel injection.
If you had the cam drive chains off, the injection timing may be off if they did not get back on and in time.
This is the second thread where a motor was taken apart and did not get back togather correctly.
This other thread was one head was changed and the cam/ chain was not indexed correctly.
The side untrouched ran ok. the Other side was all but missing.
He was 'lucky' not to have had the valves hit the pistons on that bank.
If you have fuel present and know there is 'spark' not just power to the coils; it's the only possibility left since the motor did show signs of life..
Good luck.
It's funny that you mention the cam sensor. After messing with everything all day today, I found what the problem was. I have a spare motor and lots of spare parts so I decided to change out the cam sensor with the other one I have. After which the motor fired up and ran perfect. Also on a side note, I took the part number of the fuel pump from autozone and did a little search for the same part number online. I purchased the pump, and all of its little accessories from a shop in florida for $18. I also relplaced the fuel filter for $10. Everything works great now. Thanks to all of you who helped.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 11:05 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by slick nick
Read Post #18. I followed your instructions and they worked. I was able to remove the air from the fuel rail and I turned the key to the on position and the off position several times and it worked.
I was referring to the fuel pump check, -the very first thing lol. I don't know how, but it got past yuh. You never verified and that's...Ahh forget it lol.

Regardless, glad you got it figured out.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 11:40 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jbrew
I was referring to the fuel pump check, -the very first thing lol. I don't know how, but it got past yuh. You never verified and that's...Ahh forget it lol.

Regardless, glad you got it figured out.
Damn we are on a roll for miscommunication... Yeah, I did the pre-check. I had to wait a few days for the pump so I went back and tested everything to make sure it was the fuel pump and not something else. Also thanks for the help.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 10:37 PM
  #25  
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So its been a little while...been super busy with school starting back up. Turns out the fuel pump was the culprit and so was an unplugged crank position sensor...thanks to my brother. Truck runs great and there are no issues whatsoever...thanks for the help again guys. I appreciate it.
 
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