Yea, $250 seems high. $150-$175 is more the price range you should find. Also, a felpro intake gasket set and top end kit runs about $65. Youll want the intake mani gasket, throttle body and throttle body elbow gasket (I believe on the composite intake like yours it is an O ring rubber style gasket. It may even come with the intake manifold) IAC gasket and EGR gasket. If you havent done your plugs in a while, motorcraft sp-479 should be your plugs if you just want factory recommendation.

There's really nothing hard about it. It's really worth saving the money and getting other things done as well. Good luck

 

For that model year, he should go with the Ford intake gaskets. Just the intake at the heads. Ford modified the gaskets for those years (thickened them up) and I don't think Felpro and Victor Reinz got the memo as their gaskets remained the same more less.
The F150 Line, V8's, - Specially the 4.6L's as specified via TSB, - trucks within a certain model year range were being returned to service shortly after work was done which required upper intake removal. A lot of them, due to banks 1 or 2 test positive for lean. The intakes had a hard time sealing second time around, -once the original seal was broken (factory seal). I think a lot of that was because techs aren't given the time required to prep for that particular gasket. The TSB pointed out that even a finger print on the heads or gasket ring could promote a leak (oil from the skin)..-Nevertheless, Ford revised the intake gaskets at the head seal for these model years. They are a lot beefier than any I've seen aftermarket. In fact, bank 1 gasket is larger/thicker than bank two lol.

To correctly install, you plug the head ports and go over the head with Emery cloth lightly (I use a 4" Porter cable or Makita palm sander. Usually the Makita because small/square, not that powerful, -perfect for the job.- Not a necessity of course)/ then Lacquer thinner, medium - fast evaporation time. I prefer the medium myself or the Acrylic lacquer thinner. If the new gasket have been sitting out or uncovered, dirty or whatnot, -they should be hit with denatured alcohol and dried before install. Both surfaces need to be completely dry before lowering the manifold onto the heads/gaskets. - Or the gaskets WILL NOT seal effectively.

That crap aside, -It's really easier and faster to do than it was to type this out. Well, for me anyway. I never have typed fast, but not that slow. Hell iduno, you know what I mean...- I hope!

Yea, you have to be thorough there. If they leak just a little, It can put you tight to one side of programed parameter margins. Meaning just about any little disturbance in air metering can thro one or both banks lean.

Again and as Toyz posted above, you can do it, I have that faith in you from what I've read so far. You most likley didn't need or want to know all that above lol. But what the heck, maybe someone will be scratching there head, having troubles getting a seal, -at their wits end, then stumble into this thread. Perhaps It'll help make little sense out of it. Specially if it's their 2nd or 3rd attempt lol.

Anyway, PM your Email address. Click my user name/select send massage to, and I'll send the service procedure (just the remove/install). That should make it go a little quicker for yuh. I'll send the torque specs as well. Say the word.

If you downloaded the manual, you should have "same procedure" within..(?) Ill have to compare, some stuff is a little different compared to what I have.

 

OP, do you live in Tally?

 

I do not think it is cracked, when you are looking at the engine from the front the leak is on the left side (where the one inch hose comes off the top and runs to the back and into the dash, I guess that is for the heater) the steam is coming out right at that seam on the back side towards the first coil. With flash light it appears that is coming from the seam. The mechanic I called said that it was most likely the O ring, but he said 9 times out of 10 when that ring goes bad it pits and can cut a groove in the aluminum towards the edge and if that is the case a new intake manifold will have to be installed. I know I could save more money by checking to see if just the O rings needs replaced but if I take it apart and I find I need to replace the manifold, I would have to pay more to buy the manifold locally (autozone $254) Maybe easier to replace the manifold from the start. I am going to use some of the links you guys provided to order the manifold this week. If I get it before next weekend I am going to attempt to change it on Saturday the 13th
What do I need to prep for before I start this job other than having the tools and parts. I really appreciate everyone's help

 

Order the manifold from someone who has return privileges.