okay so in june i put 3.5 lifted spindles on my truck.......

now in january i want to pull those spindles off my truck and put a 6" pro comp lift on my truck.......

ill have the cash to do so with out a problem, the only thing is i just spent 1100 on tires in july......

so to keep from spending another 1500 on tires how will 35's look on 9" of lift? to small? should i wait till i need new tires to lift it again and buy 37's? and buy step bars, new pipes, more lights, and new rims that i want now?

 

Don't pull the spindles off, just buy the 3" coils and control arms and add those to the spindles you have now, it'll save you some cash. And 35's won't be too noticeable with 9", I'm pretty sure Buxton has a picture of his truck like that on here so you could use that to get an idea.

As for everything else you want just buy when money allows, the tires however you could probably sell on craigslist and get some money back. But if your going up to 37's your going to need to regear also.

 

can i still keep my spacer?
and what do i need for the rear end to lift it?
just a taller lift block block?
what size?
who makes a reliable 3" coil?
what are my options on new control arms?
do i need upper and lower or just upper?

sorry for the questions im new to suspensions, but when it comes to finding more power, ha thats easy to me.

Thanks pizzaman711,
Boomer

 

You can't keep the spacer since it's 2.5" that's too much for the control arms, it's too much for the stock ones as it is. However you can replace it with a 1.5".

For the rear end, either a taller block, an add-a-leaf, lift leaf springs, or a mix of the three will work.

4" of lift in the rear would keep you about level if you put the coils with the spindles you have now, a general rule is about 1.5"-2" less lift in the rear than the front to keep it level.

Coil's are good really no matter the brand, some of the cheaper ones are springtech and canuck motorsports (check ebay).

You only need aftermarket control arms for the upper arms, but these depend on the brand of your spindles. If they're fabtech you have to get the fabtech ones, otherwise you can go with doestch, springtech, canuck, etc.

Back to the spacer question, if you go with 3" coils and aftermarket arms, you can then stick a 1.5" spacer on top of those, but I wouldn't go bigger than that.

Total this would net you about 3" (body lift) + 3.5" (spindles) + 3" (coils) + 1.5" (spacer) = 11" of lift minus about 1/2" or so for sag. So ample room to clear 37's, with the right wheel of course and not too wide of a tire.

 

so i got in touch with my supplier:

coils: 198.95
control arms: 359.80
5.5 block and u-bolts: ~100.00
2"add-a-leaf: ~40.00
4 New Pro-comp ES9000 shocks: ~150.00

so roughly looking at $850.00 shipped to my door.

I re-measured my Spacer its only 2" not 2.5" he said Doestech said that i shouldn't have any problems with that spacer and that ill end up gaining 8.5" of lift in the front.

so over all i will end up with 12" up front, and 11.5 in the back. he said i should only see about .5" of sag up front do to weight.

so ill have 23" of ground clearance

 

Is the spacer 2" or only provides 2" of lift? I think your control arm angle will still be drastic leading to premature ball joint wear out. Also, 12/11.5 will have close to stock rake if you want that

 

im not 100% on my math. ive been up for going on 3 days. i asked that about the ball joints and he said the engineer at doesteh said that it would be fine. My guy said i can go with a more "high performance" joint for 50.00 more. wich i might do.

 

Hmm, I'm not saying it wouldn't work but I think with 3" lift coils and a 2" spacer it'd be a less than desirable angle. If you get hooked up at a shop then have em throw it on to see the angle.

 

Yea the spacer's will be physically smaller than the lift they provide, for example my 1.5" spacers sitting in my garage are under an inch tall. But I wouldn't do any spacer that provides more than 2". But I'm glad you were able to get in touch with doestch, sorry I couldn't find the actual part links for you ha.

On a side note, where'd you measure your ground clearance at? Your real ground clearance is only as high as the rear differential which would be the lowest part on your truck.

And to joh408 technically the control arms will reset him to the factory angles in theory, so it should work, but everyone's truck is different so the possible of premature ball joint wear is still there.

 

im going to do it. im going to start all of this after the first of the year. im going to do a little more research. i may sand .5" off the spacers. maybe. even though a 1.5 spacer is only 35.00

 

Ya I guess that is true but you figure with the angles they figure on it settling so the coils might put the control arm at an angle from the beginning and settle into stock but I'm probably putting too much into it

 

i kind of cheated and did the lowest part of the frame Trans crossmember. i think i have just under 15 under rear diff

 

Don't sand the spacers, I have a feeling that'd be somewhat unsafe. I'd just sell them and get the right ones.

 

ha after i said i thought the same thing. im going to use the 2" spacer just to check the geo, my guy said the max angle it should be at is like 40 degrees at the most.

 

yea itll be pretty steep but should be ok